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Got a bad turbo? Let's track the issue...

thincatron

New member
Hey guys!
Okay so everything went well with the swap.
Did Cobb is38 tune, followed by priming the turbo. Fired up and took it out for some pulls. Ran great until I popped one of my clamps. Buttoned it down and again running great. Drove home nice and chill about 170 miles away. Even WOT whooped a charger on the highway(he challenged me). Following day
No codes except for the epc while in ACC. nothing on while turned powered on. Go for cruise come back check codes nothing. I went to the outskirts for some hard pulls and the car went limp. Drove home cleared codes fired it up and it drove okay except now it feels like I have a boost leak. I get no boost until 4K-5k and I need to WOT. No weird sounds. I did the obdeleven charge pressure live data and everything looks good. Could it be the lack of Upgraded IC. I read somewhere that if you don’t have the IC the performance will only last a few days and then it disappears until u upgrade? How bout spark plugs?


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jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
Hey guys!
Okay so everything went well with the swap.
Did Cobb is38 tune, followed by priming the turbo. Fired up and took it out for some pulls. Ran great until I popped one of my clamps. Buttoned it down and again running great. Drove home nice and chill about 170 miles away. Even WOT whooped a charger on the highway(he challenged me). Following day
No codes except for the epc while in ACC. nothing on while turned powered on. Go for cruise come back check codes nothing. I went to the outskirts for some hard pulls and the car went limp. Drove home cleared codes fired it up and it drove okay except now it feels like I have a boost leak. I get no boost until 4K-5k and I need to WOT. No weird sounds. I did the obdeleven charge pressure live data and everything looks good. Could it be the lack of Upgraded IC. I read somewhere that if you don’t have the IC the performance will only last a few days and then it disappears until u upgrade? How bout spark plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know what the problem is but it isn't the IC. If you're heat soaked it will just have less power not zero boost. If you have a boost leak it won't wait until 4 to 5,000 RPM's to show up.
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
Hey guys!
Okay so everything went well with the swap.
Did Cobb is38 tune, followed by priming the turbo. Fired up and took it out for some pulls. Ran great until I popped one of my clamps. Buttoned it down and again running great. Drove home nice and chill about 170 miles away. Even WOT whooped a charger on the highway(he challenged me). Following day
No codes except for the epc while in ACC. nothing on while turned powered on. Go for cruise come back check codes nothing. I went to the outskirts for some hard pulls and the car went limp. Drove home cleared codes fired it up and it drove okay except now it feels like I have a boost leak. I get no boost until 4K-5k and I need to WOT. No weird sounds. I did the obdeleven charge pressure live data and everything looks good. Could it be the lack of Upgraded IC. I read somewhere that if you don’t have the IC the performance will only last a few days and then it disappears until u upgrade? How bout spark plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actuator adaptation/voltage. Confirm that it was saved and at 3.5-3.6 LOWER stop?
 

BeA3t

New member
Location
Fargo, ND
Thincatron, so did you snap the shaft in your is20? Did you find metal particles in the oil filter/housing? My littco ia38x snapped the shaft 100 miles in. A3 apr stage 3 tune. Ive dropped the oil 2 times now and still had particles in the filter/housing. 1st was cold drain after shaft snapped. 2nd was after idling 30 minutes on new stock is38. 3rd was checking the the filter/housing after a 30 mile drive on the new is38 with no boosting just cruising. Changed the filter again, hoping for no more particles soon. My pipes and intercooler were clean after my is38x snapped the shaft, just having some particulate in my oil filters now.
 

launchd

Drag Racing Champion
Location
New York
Car(s)
2023 M3LR, 2021 A7
Thincatron, so did you snap the shaft in your is20? Did you find metal particles in the oil filter/housing? My littco ia38x snapped the shaft 100 miles in. A3 apr stage 3 tune. Ive dropped the oil 2 times now and still had particles in the filter/housing. 1st was cold drain after shaft snapped. 2nd was after idling 30 minutes on new stock is38. 3rd was checking the the filter/housing after a 30 mile drive on the new is38 with no boosting just cruising. Changed the filter again, hoping for no more particles soon. My pipes and intercooler were clean after my is38x snapped the shaft, just having some particulate in my oil filters now.

That's awful :(

Just out of curiosity, can you list all of your mods?
 

SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
This is the tune
 

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BeA3t

New member
Location
Fargo, ND
Sorry guys this mobile version doesn't let me quote properly... Ya I always thought the a3/gti apr is38 tune was called just that but last time I looked on the site they call it stage 3. My mods *were is38x, stage 3 apr is38 91oct tune, usp catted dp, milltek catback, cts turbo pipes-inlet-tmd, apr intercooler, 034 intake, colder plugs and rs3 coils. Littco wanted to blame my tune right away...saying the is38x was designed for the apr stage 2 golf r...which is pretty much identical to an is38 a3. Same mods required...dp, intercooler, intake. Then he mentioned it could have been coming off the throttle at high rpm. Regardless I'll be shipping it back shortly for him to inspect. I assume I'll get some type of replacement though he did mention not having any type of warranty next time around. I picked up a stock is38 in the meantime as I'd like to drive my car again. Just trying to get a clean oil filter now, hoping the problem is short lived as possible although I know it could lead to more issues. I plan on doing another warm engine oil change and hopefully that clears things up finally, haven't boosted since putting on the new turbo. I had drained the oil after the is38x blew but by that time the motor was cold. Hoping it's just residual particles from that. Only time will tell. As far as opinion on what happened, idk....I lean towards a balance issue or some type of oiling issue with the new bearing...but I'm no turbo expert so who knows.
 
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BeA3t

New member
Location
Fargo, ND
Under some bad, bad advice....I didn't drop the oil pan and clean it after I blew my turbo. I was told just change the oil and check the filter... and stupidly that's what I did. Luckily I have only done 40 miles of light driving with my new turbo which is on it's 2nd oil change since draining the blown turbo oil and it's 4th filter since said blown turbo. I guess I was just blinded by ignorance wanting to get my car running again. Question is can anyone tell me what the torque spec is on the stock plastic oil pan bolts? Yes I know I should put on a steel pan, which I have sitting on the shelf, but I don't want to wait the 24hrs for the sealant to cure this time around and will put the steel pan on later once I straighten out my current issue of contaminated oil. Any help would be appreciated as I don't have a factory manual right now, I'm trying minimize cost so my wife doesn't cut my throat in my sleep lol..
 
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