Remove cam girdle/cover without removing lower timing cover?

[Quebster]

Hi friends,

Because reasons, I need to re-do the green sealant on my cam girdle / cover / whatever you want to call it.

I’d like to know if anyone has done so without having to remove the lower timing cover and releasing the timing chain tension and etc? If so, how did you do it?

I’ve been told you can just let the cams pop up when you remove the cover, but I fear jumping timing. Another possibility of zip tying them down to the head on the driver side, something like that.

Thoughts? Tips? Thanks. Pic from when I installed the head for fun:

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[777-300ER]

Nope nope nope nope nope. You need to do it right. Do NOT half ass this procedure.

 

[Quebster]

One thing’s for certain, I’m going to try. So advice would be helpful. If I even 1% fear I’ve messed the timing though, I’ll pull the lower cover and re-do it... but I’m going to try without doing that first. [emoji51]


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[russiankid]

Can you zip tie the chain to the cam gears somehow? I've zip tied timing belts to gears before in fear of putting it out of time, but that was on a timing belt and SOHC.

 

[Hoon]

Do the tensioners on these cars retract automatically or do the teeth engage as the tensioner extends, forcing manual retraction?

I've seen both designs in other applications, my concern would be if you slack the chain when you unbolt the cams, the tensioner will extend. If it "ratchets" and locks in the extended position, you're going to break something when you bolt the cams back in.

As far as jumping time, you should be able to use zip ties and clips to make sure the chain doesn't move, and then just verify the timing afterwards.

 

[Jacobmk7]

Do the tensioners on these cars retract automatically or do the teeth engage as the tensioner extends, forcing manual retraction?

I've seen both designs in other applications, my concern would be if you slack the chain when you unbolt the cams, the tensioner will extend. If it "ratchets" and locks in the extended position, you're going to break something when you bolt the cams back in.

As far as jumping time, you should be able to use zip ties and clips to make sure the chain doesn't move, and then just verify the timing afterwards.

I could be wrong but I think it ratchets. I’m pretty sure that was one of reasons that the gen 1 and 2 tsi had issues, the ratchet would break and it wouldn’t be able to hold tension anymore.

 

[ErBall]

I could be wrong but I think it ratchets. I’m pretty sure that was one of reasons that the gen 1 and 2 tsi had issues, the ratchet would break and it wouldn’t be able to hold tension anymore.

It does ratchet, but it's also supplied an oil feed which provides additional tension. A manual retract is necessary to get it to back off, if you're going to touch it, replace it. The gen 1 problem was the earlier version had a much weaker tooth layout than the revised tensioner that comes standard on gen 3. If you're interested I did a DIY on golfmk6 about replacing them. Pretty much exactly the same on gen 3.

 

[GoatPowder]

I mean, if we're already going for a hillbilly fix, why not just smear some grey silicone (international grey if you can find it) on the outside to seal it up? Has to be better then disturbing the cams...

 

[Diggs24]

I mean, if we're already going for a hillbilly fix, why not just smear some grey silicone (international grey if you can find it) on the outside to seal it up? Has to be better then disturbing the cams...

Well, it's eating oil so it isn't leaking externally.

 

[Quebster]

Hey all,


Thanks for the input so far. The ratcheting piece is an interesting point. Yeah, in my experience of doing the timing when I put my head on, if the tensioner expands completely, the little clip around it gets caught up and will not allow the tensioner to compress. Let's see if I have a pic of what I'm talking about...

Yeah, that. I think I have an idea, though. I'll use those timing tools that bolt into the head to lock the cam position in place and see if I can zip tie the other ends down. I think that'll do the trick. Might give it a try tonight.

 

[Quebster]

There is also that plug in the lower timing cover that allows you to observe the tensioner. I could pop that off and check it out to confirm it's peachy and all.

 

[TrueGTI]

Oh man its like watching the moon landing up in here!

 

[Diggs24]

Oh man its like watching the moon landing up in here!

More like Apollo 13 making a filter out of socks and stuff.

I demand a how to!

 

[SugarMouth]

Unbelievable we are having this conversation. I am not a fan of a multi function valve cover/cam cap girdle combo.

Hey man, I need to change my wheel. Oh cool, go ahead and unbolt the axle, hub and strut and then you can get to the lug bolts behind the spindle. Nuts!

 

[Hoon]

Unbelievable we are having this conversation. I am not a fan of a multi function valve cover/cam cap girdle combo.

Hey man, I need to change my wheel. Oh cool, go ahead and unbolt the axle, hub and strut and then you can get to the lug bolts behind the spindle. Nuts!

Some bean counter figured out they could save 3 cents/car by combining the parts.

If they wanted to do a girdle for strength, they could have still put a traditional cover over it. It's a stupid design.

VW got all of the major things right in our engines, but they did make them very difficult to work on. The "upper oil pan" is another stroke of genius.

Our balance shafts have oil filters, balance shaft drives the water pump, oil screens in some of the channels, etc.