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Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

Zmoore54

New member
Location
Milwaukee Wisconsin
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
So I have an interesting problem that I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread.. fluid escaping from the threads of the bleeder screws?

I just installed these macan calipers last week monday. Just to clear up, I run 17x8 enkei kojin wheels(no spacer required) with pirelli take off slicks. I also have the rs3 brake deflectors and I did all the obd11 coding that was laid out in the first post of this thread. I am still however running the factory front mk7 plain rotors. For pads I have g-loc R16 pads which should have a very high operating temp. a true track only pad that was the compound recommended to me by g-loc. i'm also running brand new AP racing Radi-cal brake fluid. this has a higher boiling point than motul 660. i ran the motul 660 and boiled once with the factory set up with the same deflectors. switch fluid when i switch calipers.

I ran a track day last thurdsay. The track day was 3, 20 minute sessions. First session on the new pads (i tried my best to bed in but it's tricky to bed them in on the street) pedal got pretty low after about 8 minutes. I bled the front calipers and all was well. However, I noticed fluid and air bubbles coming out of the threads of the bleeder screw. The bleeders seemed tight and certainly should not be allowing anything past the tapered seal of the bleeder.. Next session I got the same thing. came in after having the pedal go straight to the floor just passed 10 minutes in. I looked back and saw nothing but white smoke. The pedal felt fine before that. Last session I took it easy and just tried to enjoy myself without pushing it hard at all. Pedal started to get low again and so I came in as they were waving the checkered flag.

On my last session I noticed that I had very bad vibration. This is probably from the over heating the pads the session before and the pads got mushy and started laying a lot of deposits on the rotors(by product of not being able to truly bed in the pads before hand). I know cooling is likely a big issue but that I can fix by reworking the deflectors and getting different rotors (2 peice rotors with substantially more vanes that are directional instead of the straight vanes that are extremely in-efficient.) I'm also going to try different pads that don't lay down so many deposites. I've heard good things about performance friction, ferodo, and pagid. The g-locs are essentially carbotechs. I didn't have these issues with the factory R-calipers and same pad compound. That particular track is pretty hard on brakes because there isn't a lot of straight to cool brakes down, and most braking zones are hard braking zones. Not many spots to feather the brakes or just lift.
 

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MurtMk7

New member
Location
Gurnee, IL. USA.
Car(s)
2015 MK7 GTI
So I have an interesting problem that I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread.. fluid escaping from the threads of the bleeder screws?

I just installed these macan calipers last week monday. Just to clear up, I run 17x8 enkei kojin wheels(no spacer required) with pirelli take off slicks. I also have the rs3 brake deflectors and I did all the obd11 coding that was laid out in the first post of this thread. I am still however running the factory front mk7 plain rotors. For pads I have g-loc R16 pads which should have a very high operating temp. a true track only pad that was the compound recommended to me by g-loc. i'm also running brand new AP racing Radi-cal brake fluid. this has a higher boiling point than motul 660. i ran the motul 660 and boiled once with the factory set up with the same deflectors. switch fluid when i switch calipers.

I ran a track day last thurdsay. The track day was 3, 20 minute sessions. First session on the new pads (i tried my best to bed in but it's tricky to bed them in on the street) pedal got pretty low after about 8 minutes. I bled the front calipers and all was well. However, I noticed fluid and air bubbles coming out of the threads of the bleeder screw. The bleeders seemed tight and certainly should not be allowing anything past the tapered seal of the bleeder.. Next session I got the same thing. came in after having the pedal go straight to the floor just passed 10 minutes in. I looked back and saw nothing but white smoke. The pedal felt fine before that. Last session I took it easy and just tried to enjoy myself without pushing it hard at all. Pedal started to get low again and so I came in as they were waving the checkered flag.

On my last session I noticed that I had very bad vibration. This is probably from the over heating the pads the session before and the pads got mushy and started laying a lot of deposits on the rotors(by product of not being able to truly bed in the pads before hand). I know cooling is likely a big issue but that I can fix by reworking the deflectors and getting different rotors (2 peice rotors with substantially more vanes that are directional instead of the straight vanes that are extremely in-efficient.) I'm also going to try different pads that don't lay down so many deposites. I've heard good things about performance friction, ferodo, and pagid. The g-locs are essentially carbotechs. I didn't have these issues with the factory R-calipers and same pad compound. That particular track is pretty hard on brakes because there isn't a lot of straight to cool brakes down, and most braking zones are hard braking zones. Not many spots to feather the brakes or just lift.
Post #677, pg 49. Use the search button
 

patrick_b

Ready to race!
Location
Newburyport, MA
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE 6MT

How do you like them? My OEM PP brakes are at 60K and I just ordered the FCP cross drilled/red stuff pad kit. I didn't buy fluid yet. I know my mechanic will use OEM. I have a track day scheduled for Oct but I will probably do 1-2 per year.

For reference:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-brake-kit-zimmerman-sport-kit-528841kt18
 

Will_

Drag Racing Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG

Will_

Drag Racing Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG

vwlotech

Ready to race!
Location
Lexington, KY
How do you like them? My OEM PP brakes are at 60K and I just ordered the FCP cross drilled/red stuff pad kit. I didn't buy fluid yet. I know my mechanic will use OEM. I have a track day scheduled for Oct but I will probably do 1-2 per year.

For reference:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-brake-kit-zimmerman-sport-kit-528841kt18
So far so good! they've only been on for a couple days, but no complaints as of yet.
 

VL3X

Ready to race!
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
Don’t do a track day with stock fluid, it will boil quickly and you’ll lose brakes. Change that first.
Depends on many factors.. but I have done a few tracks days on the stock setup without issues... UNTIL my last 20 min session of the day and experienced some brake fade and went off the track a bit. One of my Neuspeed RSE10s left with a bit of a bend and had to be replaced. That being said... upgraded brake fluid would have been cheaper.
 

Will_

Drag Racing Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG
From Konig - 18x8.5 ET 43 Ampliforms won’t fit - although not sure if they scaled template correctly?

EF1FF538-8DA2-4C7F-862F-8899C7DBC69E.png
 

Sspcivic31

Go Kart Champion
Location
Texas
So I have an interesting problem that I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread.. fluid escaping from the threads of the bleeder screws?
Hi, I have a mk6 gti that i fitted the 986 boxster calipers to, and had a similar fluid weep issue. only thing that fixed it was to remove the rubber bleeder covers completely, torque the bleeders then reinstall the rubber covers. weeping stopped after that. best i could tell the lower loop on the rubber was thick enough to keep the bleeder from seating properly.
 

nono0044

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto
Hi, I have a mk6 gti that i fitted the 986 boxster calipers to, and had a similar fluid weep issue. only thing that fixed it was to remove the rubber bleeder covers completely, torque the bleeders then reinstall the rubber covers. weeping stopped after that. best i could tell the lower loop on the rubber was thick enough to keep the bleeder from seating properly.
Hmm interesting, going to give that a try as well since one of the loops looks to be pinched
 
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