Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[scrapin240]

From Konig - 18x8.5 ET 43 Ampliforms won’t fit - although not sure if they scaled template correctly?

with a 8-10mm spacer they probably will

 

[shaolinmastr]

Adams Rotors Drift II 345mm MK6 GTI Golf R rotors

 

[scrapin240]

Hey.. Anyone with the racing brake dust seals get two different sizes? I thought they were all the same size

 

[18GTISE]

whelp...I decided to get a ttrs setup.. got an offer a couldn't refuse..

 

[emichel6888]

Had a major break through on the RPV brake pedal height/feel issue
https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.ph...-residual-pressure-valves.376654/post-7477251

Also I did end up doing the custom cross over to swap the calipers over, it was not hard to do. The pistons are offset by about 8 mm so now instead of being 8 mm closer to the leading edge, they are 8 mm further away so 16mm difference. Should help improve even friction/wear on the pads. I could swear the brakes feel better, but pad wear will be the real indicator.

Of course now you can see all the areas where I was sloppy with my paint job. Oh, no one is going to see that so who cares.

This is a great upgrade, these relatively simple modifications take it to a whole other level, especially the RPV/seal lube.

Oh BTW this is the tubing and fittings I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNGVV0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C8NK65K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The M10 female-female adapter I just bought from Auto Zone.

 

[scrapin240]

that's awesome. the DS2500 fixed any issues I had with the brake pedal.

I just tried out the Ferodo DS1.11 pads on the streets for my upcoming track day and WOW! 25% brake pressure and the car feel like it can do an endo.

 

[GTIfan99]

that's awesome. the DS2500 fixed any issues I had with the brake pedal.

I just tried out the Ferodo DS1.11 pads on the streets for my upcoming track day and WOW! 25% brake pressure and the car feel like it can do an endo.

Are the DS1.11 streetable?

 

[emichel6888]

Are the DS1.11 streetable?

Unfortunately no

 

[emichel6888]

that's awesome. the DS2500 fixed any issues I had with the brake pedal.

I just tried out the Ferodo DS1.11 pads on the streets for my upcoming track day and WOW! 25% brake pressure and the car feel like it can do an endo.

Well, suite yourself, but as good as you might think it is now, trust me, you're missing out. I am also using Ferodo DS2500, it is not bad, just not nearly as good as it could be.
Track pads are awesome, it's a shame they don't work well for street use. I have to agree, those DS2500's seem to be about as good as it gets for street use, and they aren't to bad for occasional light track use.

 

[scrapin240]

i've used them over the last couple days, they work fine on the street. they basically stop at 50% pedal effort

 

[emichel6888]

i've used them over the last couple days, they work fine on the street. they basically stop at 50% pedal effort

You can do it sure, but there are good reasons why they tell you not to do it. When they are up to temperature they are great, but when they are cold they have significantly less stopping power than even an average street pad. I know that after a few stops they seem okay, but let's say you have been cruising on the highway for a while and they are stone cold, and then all of a sudden you need to stop in a hurry, good luck. The other reason is cold race pads will eat up the rotors like you would not believe.
You can get away with driving to and from a track event if you are careful, but daily use is a really bad idea. I tried it a long time ago, and after a couple of close calls, and then destroying a set of rotors after just two or three thousand miles... Like I said, there are good reasons why the manufacturer's say they are "not suitable for street use", that is why most people do not use track pads on the street. At least not for more than short periods; you just cannot maintain the amount of heat they need to function properly with street driving.
It is just like driving on the street with full race slicks, yea you can do it, and under certain conditions it might even seem fine, but still a really bad idea for many reasons.

As for the RBV/Lube mod; no matter how good you think it is with whatever pad you are using, trust me, it can be a lot better.

 

[scrapin240]

You can do it sure, but there are good reasons why they tell you not to do it. When they are up to temperature they are great, but when they are cold they have significantly less stopping power than even an average street pad. I know that after a few stops they seem okay, but let's say you have been cruising on the highway for a while and they are stone cold, and then all of a sudden you need to stop in a hurry, good luck. The other reason is cold race pads will eat up the rotors like you would not believe.
You can get away with driving to and from a track event if you are careful, but daily use is a really bad idea. I tried it a long time ago, and after a couple of close calls, and then destroying a set of rotors after just two or three thousand miles... Like I said, there are good reasons why the manufacturer's say they are "not suitable for street use", that is why most people do not use track pads on the street. At least not for more than short periods; you just cannot maintain the amount of heat they need to function properly with street driving.
It is just like driving on the street with full race slicks, yea you can do it, and under certain conditions it might even seem fine, but still a really bad idea for many reasons.

As for the RBV/Lube mod; no matter how good you think it is with whatever pad you are using, trust me, it can be a lot better.

Yes, it's not meant for it, but it's fine after a few stops, and if you look at 200C it's Mu is much higher

 

[scrapin240]

The biggest reason to not use the DS1.11 race pads on the street is that they are about $450 a set

 

[GTIfan99]

Yes, it's not meant for it, but it's fine after a few stops, and if you look at 200C it's Mu is much higher

Based on that, DS3.12 looks like a fantastic choice. The drastic changes in mu across the temperature range of the DS1.11.

 

[DaButcher]

Been a couple weeks since I installed these so figured it's time to contribute some thoughts. For reference, this was replacing 50,000 mile squishy stock brakes and I have very little performance driving experience to base my feelings off of. I have also never touched car brakes before so this is a complete beginners perspective.

1. What parts did I use:
   1. Macan Calipers
   2. Zimmerman 345 blanks
   3. Techna-fit standard lines (front page)
   4. pseudorealityx pad shims
   5. Ferodo DS2500 pads
   6. RBF600
   7. OBD Eleven codes per front page
   8. RS3 Ducts
2. Installation
   1. I chose to do my rear pads and rotors at the same time. I'm sure some of you guys can do the whole thing in 3 hours, but i suggest if it's your first time to keep your whole weekend free. Hopefully you can learn from some of my mistakes and get it done in one day, but I always find it less stressful to know I have another day to come back to a project if I get stuck or frustrated.
      1. I think I could get this done in about 4 hours if I had to do it again. But that's what trying new things and learning from your mistakes is all about.
   2. I randomly chose to buy a 15" breaker bar and i think that ended up being about the optimal force to maneuverability ratio to deal with the caliper bolts both front and rear.
   3. Big A$$ Hammer. Might be easier on lower mile vehicles, but even with a soaking of PB blaster, I still had to run back to Homed Depot to get the heaviest rubber mallet I could find. I think it was like 45 oz. Even with that, I still had to smack the rotors like nothing I have ever smacked before.
   4. For some reason I thought you could compress the rear caliper with a standard compression tool. Nope. You need the one that turns as you compress. AdvancedAuto lent this out for free but I probably asted a solid hour on this alone.
   5. Best strategy I found for the lines is to first thread it in most of the way into the caliper. Then attach the caliper to the carrier. Then slide the middle retention piece into the knuckle bracket and insert clip. Then fully tighten caliper end. Then attach the hardline end
      1. Still not sure what the best way to do the final step was. Once you detach the original line fluid just starts coming and even the 5th time around (yeah I messed up a couple times) I still got brake fluid all over me and the driveway before i could get the new brake line in. Someone around here probably has a better strategy.
   6. Get more brake fluid than you think. Probably used more than I needed but I went through a solid three bottles, wish I had 4 for peace of mind. luckily FCP should have my back here.
   7. G2 Paint. If you think the room you're going to do it in has good ventilation, it doesn't. No matter how many windows, fans... it doesn't. It took multiple days for the smell to leave my apartment. That being said the results are pretty good. If you take super good care of your car and need everything perfect, powder coating is probably your way to go. But there's other imperfection on my car that people will notice before any imperfections in the caliper paint so all good. I'll update on how it holds up after I finally get it to a track day.
3. Results
   1. Surprise, surprise, they feel way better than 50,000 mile old squishy stock brakes. Bedded them int o Ferodos recommendations the best I could, which I will admit made me a little nauseous but I was probably also dehydrated by that point haha. No squealing at all.
   2. I used a power bleeder but even using that and going around twice the pedal was still pretty soft. If i pushed in halfway, let out then started pushing in again the bite was immediate so I'm sure it was just lingering air I didn't get out. Out of laziness I didn't go back to fix it and it seems that over the past two weeks most of that squish has gone away. I assume the air slowly rose to the MC over time. I will probably go through and do a final two person bleed before i go to a track though.
   3. Overall, I am very glad I did this. It was sometimes frustrating but in the end fun experience where I learned a lot. The price difference to do this and sell the old calipers on marketplace vs doing the normal pads/lines/rotors upgrade I was going to do anyways was well worth it. Thank you to all the people in this thread for providing information and figuring this all out. If anyone has a "stupid" question just ask it. there's several that i wish I had asked. Good luck!