Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[Will_]

Good to know, I'm running 18x8.5 +43 I'll try and remember to send them a message tomorrow.

That’s the exact size I asked about, I’ll post here when I get an answer.

 

[Gvazquez]

Its a shame ttrs brakes only come drilled. I wish there was a blank 370mm rotor I could use

 

[MurtMk7]

Avoid drilled if tracking.

Nah, no tracking, just a quick streetcar. Coming from non Pp Brakes

 

[scrapin240]

Funny enough I just emailed Koning about this yesterday. You can email a template to fitment@konig.com and they will let you know if it fits. I will let everyone know when they get back to me (I asked about Ampliforms).

I emailed them last year about a BBK fitment. I had to call to get any help, and never received a response after emailing someone the template.

So I wouldn't hold me breath, but good luck getting the answer.

 

[vwlotech]

has anyone tried this fluid? or the OEM fluid recommended for the R? both appear to have the same boiling point as the MOTUL the R fluid is also DOT 4 from what I saw.

 

[scrapin240]

if you're not tracking that looks fine

 

[vwlotech]

Zero fitment issues with APR 18x8.5 et45

 

[MurtMk7]

Zero fitment issues with APR 18x8.5 et45View attachment 185021

Brembos? Just got mine in the mail. Theyre humongous

 

[TheBlondeFella]

Zero fitment issues with APR 18x8.5 et45View attachment 185021

340 or 345 rotors?

 

[Escape Hatch]

SOLD


I have powder coated Macan calipers (red)with high Temp Brembo stickers and Z26 pads installed as well as Stoptech 345mm Slotted rotors and custom stainless steel lines for sale. Will do $1100 (split shipping) within the lower 48, you pay PayPal fees. Never installed, brand new.

 

[AmalgamGTI]

I have powder coated Macan calipers (red)with high Temp Brembo stickers and Z26 pads installed as well as Stoptech 345mm Slotted rotors and custom stainless steel lines for sale. Will do $1100 (split shipping) within the lower 48, you pay PayPal fees. Never installed, brand new.

Wow! I'm waiting on Apex wheels before upgrading my calipers, but this looks great. GLWS.

 

[Zmoore54]

So I have an interesting problem that I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread.. fluid escaping from the threads of the bleeder screws?

I just installed these macan calipers last week monday. Just to clear up, I run 17x8 enkei kojin wheels(no spacer required) with pirelli take off slicks. I also have the rs3 brake deflectors and I did all the obd11 coding that was laid out in the first post of this thread. I am still however running the factory front mk7 plain rotors. For pads I have g-loc R16 pads which should have a very high operating temp. a true track only pad that was the compound recommended to me by g-loc. i'm also running brand new AP racing Radi-cal brake fluid. this has a higher boiling point than motul 660. i ran the motul 660 and boiled once with the factory set up with the same deflectors. switch fluid when i switch calipers.

I ran a track day last thurdsay. The track day was 3, 20 minute sessions. First session on the new pads (i tried my best to bed in but it's tricky to bed them in on the street) pedal got pretty low after about 8 minutes. I bled the front calipers and all was well. However, I noticed fluid and air bubbles coming out of the threads of the bleeder screw. The bleeders seemed tight and certainly should not be allowing anything past the tapered seal of the bleeder.. Next session I got the same thing. came in after having the pedal go straight to the floor just passed 10 minutes in. I looked back and saw nothing but white smoke. The pedal felt fine before that. Last session I took it easy and just tried to enjoy myself without pushing it hard at all. Pedal started to get low again and so I came in as they were waving the checkered flag.

On my last session I noticed that I had very bad vibration. This is probably from the over heating the pads the session before and the pads got mushy and started laying a lot of deposits on the rotors(by product of not being able to truly bed in the pads before hand). I know cooling is likely a big issue but that I can fix by reworking the deflectors and getting different rotors (2 peice rotors with substantially more vanes that are directional instead of the straight vanes that are extremely in-efficient.) I'm also going to try different pads that don't lay down so many deposites. I've heard good things about performance friction, ferodo, and pagid. The g-locs are essentially carbotechs. I didn't have these issues with the factory R-calipers and same pad compound. That particular track is pretty hard on brakes because there isn't a lot of straight to cool brakes down, and most braking zones are hard braking zones. Not many spots to feather the brakes or just lift.

 

[MurtMk7]

So I have an interesting problem that I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread.. fluid escaping from the threads of the bleeder screws?

I just installed these macan calipers last week monday. Just to clear up, I run 17x8 enkei kojin wheels(no spacer required) with pirelli take off slicks. I also have the rs3 brake deflectors and I did all the obd11 coding that was laid out in the first post of this thread. I am still however running the factory front mk7 plain rotors. For pads I have g-loc R16 pads which should have a very high operating temp. a true track only pad that was the compound recommended to me by g-loc. i'm also running brand new AP racing Radi-cal brake fluid. this has a higher boiling point than motul 660. i ran the motul 660 and boiled once with the factory set up with the same deflectors. switch fluid when i switch calipers.

I ran a track day last thurdsay. The track day was 3, 20 minute sessions. First session on the new pads (i tried my best to bed in but it's tricky to bed them in on the street) pedal got pretty low after about 8 minutes. I bled the front calipers and all was well. However, I noticed fluid and air bubbles coming out of the threads of the bleeder screw. The bleeders seemed tight and certainly should not be allowing anything past the tapered seal of the bleeder.. Next session I got the same thing. came in after having the pedal go straight to the floor just passed 10 minutes in. I looked back and saw nothing but white smoke. The pedal felt fine before that. Last session I took it easy and just tried to enjoy myself without pushing it hard at all. Pedal started to get low again and so I came in as they were waving the checkered flag.

On my last session I noticed that I had very bad vibration. This is probably from the over heating the pads the session before and the pads got mushy and started laying a lot of deposits on the rotors(by product of not being able to truly bed in the pads before hand). I know cooling is likely a big issue but that I can fix by reworking the deflectors and getting different rotors (2 peice rotors with substantially more vanes that are directional instead of the straight vanes that are extremely in-efficient.) I'm also going to try different pads that don't lay down so many deposites. I've heard good things about performance friction, ferodo, and pagid. The g-locs are essentially carbotechs. I didn't have these issues with the factory R-calipers and same pad compound. That particular track is pretty hard on brakes because there isn't a lot of straight to cool brakes down, and most braking zones are hard braking zones. Not many spots to feather the brakes or just lift.

Post #677, pg 49. Use the search button

 

[vwlotech]

Brembos? Just got mine in the mail. Theyre humongous

Zimmerman 345mm from FCP

 

[vwlotech]

340 or 345 rotors?

345, awaiting a 2 piece slotted sale somewhere