00Zero
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Pittsburgh, Pa
i download the xlsx then I could edit it. (there may be other ways with google sheets too)Can't seem to figure out how to edit anything
i download the xlsx then I could edit it. (there may be other ways with google sheets too)Can't seem to figure out how to edit anything
I made a copy (which saves it to my drive) and then was able to edit itCan't seem to figure out how to edit anything
You just need another 800 hp.Yep.
I figured it out. Just saved a copy and edited on my phone.
At least I know I'm good to 218mph.
Welp...ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
What are my options here? I'm missing maybe 1/4" of camber. I'm not sure what that will end up being degree wise but I'm atleast a tiny bit salty that I can't use the whole range.
This is on my new RedShift Kit.
View attachment 277299
14.8
C.
The following allowances apply to strut-type suspensions. Adjustable
camber plates may be installed at the top of the strut and the original
upper mounting holes may be slotted. The drilling of holes in order to
perform the installation is permitted. The center clearance hole may
not be modified.
So basically nothing I can do from the sound of it.
While I could potentially drill holes to get to the camber adjustment screw the damper adjustment knob would still sit too high by like 1/8"
Any idea what camber you were running in that setup?If you wanted, you could remove the adjuster entirely. It's essentially a hex on the bottom side. Once you have the damping set I'd consider capping it off with something (a rubber vacuum line cap should work well) to keep rocks/crud/grit from getting inside.
I had Redshifts on my last car and once I got the damping set, I never touched it again. You can make changes to balance the car, but realistically I always got what I needed out of tire pressure or driving changes.
edit: Also be weary of leaving it like you have it. As you turn the strut doesn't rotate perfectly along the tube axis... it tilts and moves around. There's a very good possibility your adjuster will swing and physically hit the strut tower as you have it now. And it will also get closer under compression (and compression + turning especially) so you need a lot of margin of error.
There's also an allowance specifically to allow you to use your adjuster.Welp...ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
What are my options here? I'm missing maybe 1/4" of camber. I'm not sure what that will end up being degree wise but I'm atleast a tiny bit salty that I can't use the whole range.
This is on my new RedShift Kit.
View attachment 277299
14.8
C.
The following allowances apply to strut-type suspensions. Adjustable
camber plates may be installed at the top of the strut and the original
upper mounting holes may be slotted. The drilling of holes in order to
perform the installation is permitted. The center clearance hole may
not be modified.
So basically nothing I can do from the sound of it.
While I could potentially drill holes to get to the camber adjustment screw the damper adjustment knob would still sit too high by like 1/8"
Any idea what camber you were running in that setup?
The Standards are different. I've checked this morning because this seemed like a pretty solid option but its just a bigger knob to cover a smaller one.It was a Mazda2 so unfortunately doesn't matter. (Also I just cut the strut towers anyway because it was for track use once STF went away, I was just trying to get out of cutting the towers out of sheer laziness).
Piggybacking on the point above about accessing adjustments - one way around that is IF you can fully remove your adjusters (which SHOULD definitely possible on Redshift BC based coilovers, not sure if you have BC or the newer Standard versions and I have no experience with the latter)... adjust the camber plates for max camber without the adjuster installed, then drill a tiny hole beside the center hole specifically for getting an allen key into. Then you can also use a couple hole plugs to keep anything from getting into the internal adjuster mechanism.
You can see in this video how they look disassembled. The tip is something like a 3mm or 4mm allen that engages the internal adjuster within the shock shaft.
What about spacers or shims? Theres quite a bit of thread left on the bolts.
Enough to shim the plate down and maybe get the clearance needed.
I don’t see anything that seems to indicate this isn’t allowed. Whether it works or is allowed is a whole other thing.
So now the functional question is..That was going to be my next suggestion. Maybe a 1/4in or 3/8in spacer? It would add to ride height, which can be undone with the adjustments to get the right height. Ultimately it'll give up that same amount in total potential uptravel but in the grand scheme of things I'd prioritize the camber over that (since we're not talking 1/2"+ etc).