Rebuilt motors: Curious of your oil consumption, or filling the catchcan?

[JerseyDrew77]

Eh, it may not be a problem but all that slap-happy music on cold starts just makes you think about cylinder wall longevity. Do you want to do a tear down in 30-40k miles to rebuild/refresh? or do you wanna go 50-60k? lol

Well, I would think that after rebuilding the motor for the first time, with high performance parts, that I shouldn't have to ever do that again.

 

[Cliff p.]

Well, I would think that after rebuilding the motor for the first time, with high performance parts, that I shouldn't have to ever do that again.

You're building the motor with high performance parts, and high performance in mind. Nothing is ever permanent. Especially when you build it to be abused. If you think you'll never open the motor again on forged internals with loose tolerances for handling additional abuse, you should plan on rebuilding it with OE parts and not building it for big power. It's not uncommon to pull a performance motor apart in 50k miles to refresh it. Hell if you use titanium retainers, you should be expected to replace them in 30~40k miles, abuse dependent. Titanium is light, but it's also soft.

 

[JerseyDrew77]

You're building the motor with high performance parts, and high performance in mind. Nothing is ever permanent. Especially when you build it to be abused. If you think you'll never open the motor again on forged internals with loose tolerances for handling additional abuse, you should plan on rebuilding it with OE parts and not building it for big power. It's not uncommon to pull a performance motor apart in 50k miles to refresh it. Hell if you use titanium retainers, you should be expected to replace them in 30~40k miles, abuse dependent. Titanium is light, but it's also soft.

True but I don't plan to abuse it much after I build the block, meaning I might officially take it to a 1/4 mile track once or twice a year.

 

[docwyte]

Don’t think that matters. What matters is what you’ve used to build it. With the larger tolerances of the forged pistons that’ll determine your longevity more than how you use it or how much power you make.

the longest lasting components will be oem parts

 

[Hoon]

Don’t think that matters. What matters is what you’ve used to build it. With the larger tolerances of the forged pistons that’ll determine your longevity more than how you use it or how much power you make.

the longest lasting components will be oem parts

Exactly.

Stock steel retainers last forever. High performance titanium retainers have a lifespan of 30-50k miles.

 

[Cliff p.]

Just an update: AOS came in. I ordered it with the vent filter and AN fitting. In order to give it a decent home, I took a hacksaw and dremel to the plastic OE battery tray. Lots more room, now. Will be mounting the bracket for the AOS directly to the Mele battery box, and running the 10AN to the front of the motor (lower oil pan). The PCV plate will have the 10AN run from the plate to the AOS. Vented cap, no fuss, no mess.

 

[Cliff p.]

More photos

 

[Cliff p.]

All done. reused all Spulen v2 hoses, shortening them as necessary. Two 10AN male/male fittings were used on the separator, and I ran the coolant loop from the neck of the radiator to the separator, and from the separator to the coolant hard line.

 

[Navi]

looks great! ok @Quebster, your turn. Get that GTI working!

 

[Gvazquez]

All done. reused all Spulen v2 hoses, shortening them as necessary. Two 10AN male/male fittings were used on the separator, and I ran the coolant loop from the neck of the radiator to the separator, and from the separator to the coolant hard line.

Whoa that looks neat. That maybe would have made queb keep his gti lol. There should theoretically be no possibility of black smoke on track with this setup

 

[Cliff p.]

Whoa that looks neat. That maybe would have made queb keep his gti lol. There should theoretically be no possibility of black smoke on track with this setup

Time will tell. I'm not 100% confident that the return line will work properly, being that it's on the lower pan and not the upper pan. It may end up being submerged in some cases. Can't know if I didn't try, though.

 

[Cliff p.]

Almost forgot, here's the picture of the system with coolant line routing as well. It's an ugly engine bay shot, but so long as the system is functional, I can work with making it pretty later on.

 

[Quebster]

That looks awesome! I hope it works out for you, please keep us posted. I want to see some success!

 

[vw671]

Is there any fear of water and fuel vapor not burning off fast enough and making into the oil pan?

 

[Cliff p.]

Is there any fear of water and fuel vapor not burning off fast enough and making into the oil pan?

The way the canister is designed, there is a channel around the circumference. I would imagine if you’re getting enough water into the chamber during a driving cycle that it fills and escapes into the oil return, you have larger issues.