Let's talk jacking points and jack stands...again

[pcguru83]

I'll preface this by saying that there are a ton of threads about this topic both here and on VWVortex, all of which made for some great reading last night. Unfortunately, none of these led me to an answer that I'm comfortable proceeding with. That being said, I want to maybe frame the question in a different way.

Essentially, here's my question: I've got a floor jack (with a slit cut in a hockey puck) and two jack stands. I need to get my GTI slightly elevated in the front to make removing the bumper a bit easier. What's the best way to go about doing this?

Some options I've considered:
1.) Jack up the car on one side using the ECS jack pad adapter kit, place jack stand on pinch welds. Repeat for opposite side.
2.) Jack up the car on one side using the pinch weld, place jack stand on ECS jack pad. Repeat for opposite side.
3.) Jack up the car on one side using the pinch weld, place jack stand on one side of subframe. Repeat for opposite side. I'm not a huge fan of using the subframe for support though, as it just doesn't seem as stable. I like having the stands as far to either side as possible.

Another method not listed above, but that I've used on my wife's Hyundai Elantra is to jack the car up on the pinch weld near the driver's door hinge, then place the jack stand just to the left of the jack. The pinch weld seems to be reinforced down the entire length of the car, and is still flawless after having done this on several occasions. My research has led me to believe that the pinch weld may not be as strong (or at least reinforced) on the GTI as perhaps it is on my wife's car.

Lastly, I'm not opposed to buying the ECS jack pad adapter kit, but if I can get by without it that would be preferred. I don't see myself jacking the car up super often, so I can think of other things I'd much rather use that $89 for.

 

[Chad13762]

For stuff like this, it's really easy if you just get another floor jack. Jack both sides of the car up from the jack points, place jack stands under the sub-frame, lower the car so the majority of the weight is on the stands, but leave the jacks in contact (valve closed) for stability.

Edit: This is better too, since, if you jack each side of the car up (say in 4" increments), the car is not going to be lifted pretty much evenly from side to side. This eliminates the bad angles that might cause jack or jack stand slippage from trying to lift one side at a time.

 

[Diggs24]

I removed the bumper last night without jacking up the car. It was quite easy. I used a ratchet and a T25 bit. Plenty of clearance under the car to get the 7 bolts out underneath. Just follow along with these guys and have some items set up on each corner and in the middle to set the bumper on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLKydAgQbOM

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=233524&postcount=2629

 

[RacingManiac]

Does the wheels needs to be off to remove the bumper(I honestly don't know), would ramps not work for you?

 

[Chad13762]

When you can, get another floor jack anyway..you'll thank me later. Makes changing oil, doing brakes, or just about anything under the car 10x easier.

Remember, always parlay any project into an excuse to buy more tools

 

[Diggs24]

Does the wheels needs to be off to remove the bumper(I honestly don't know), would ramps not work for you?

No, but you need to turn them left and right to get the 4 bolts in the wheel liners.

 

[pcguru83]

For stuff like this, it's really easy if you just get another floor jack. Jack both sides of the car up from the jack points, place jack stands under the sub-frame, lower the car so the majority of the weight is on the stands, but leave the jacks in contact (valve closed) for stability.

Edit: This is better too, since, if you jack each side of the car up (say in 4" increments), the car is not going to be lifted pretty much evenly from side to side. This eliminates the bad angles that might cause jack or jack stand slippage from trying to lift one side at a time.

Ha, this is kind of what I figured was going to be one of the answers. I'm with you, I do think this is probably the best answer, as even with my wife's car, some of the angles can get weird.

I removed the bumper last night without jacking up the car. It was quite easy. I used a ratchet and a T25 bit. Plenty of clearance under the car to get the 7 bolts out underneath. Just follow along with these guys and have some items set up on each corner and in the middle to set the bumper on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLKydAgQbOM

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=233524&postcount=2629

Thanks, the DAP video is actually the one I had planned on following. They actually mention in the video that it may be a bit easier to elevate the car in the front, which is why I was going down this road. I'd honestly like to know for future reference anyways, so I figured now was as good of a time as any to find out which way to go with this.

Does the wheels needs to be off to remove the bumper(I honestly don't know), would ramps not work for you?

The wheels, no. However, it can make it easier to get to the bolts that hold the bumper and fender cover in place when the car is slightly elevated.

 

[pcguru83]

When you can, get another floor jack anyway..you'll thank me later. Makes changing oil, doing brakes, or just about anything under the car 10x easier.

Remember, always parlay any project into an excuse to buy more tools

You. I like you.

 

[Diggs24]

Thanks, the DAP video is actually the one I had planned on following. They actually mention in the video that it may be a bit easier to elevate the car in the front, which is why I was going down this road. I'd honestly like to know for future reference anyways, so I figured now was as good of a time as any to find out which way to go with this.

It would be easier yes, as then you can see if the holes line up on the bottom of the bumper, but I've done it twice now and as long as you get the bumper snapped back in place correctly those bolt holes line up pretty easily.

 

[DUSlider]

Turn wheel left and right to get the screws out of the fender liners. Drive up on ramps to get the ones underneath.

I got the ECS kit for my MK7, I started to put them in when I was putting the winter wheels on. It was a pain in the ass and I got 1 of the 4 in (rear passenger side). I'll probably will put the rear driver side in. Looking at the fronts then I've decided I'm not going to bother. I might get the OEM solution that maintains the underbody plastic (There is none of that to worry about for the rears).

I got the same kit for my MK5 that I gave to my parents since I still do the maintenance on it for them. Didn't install it yet.

I'm seriously considering investing in a one of these...
http://www.quickjack.com/

My current jack's head is too small to securly fit the ecs adapter. I was thinking about getting a really nice second jack anyway. If I end up buying two that is nearly half the price of the quickjack.

 

[ReadTheBook]

I got my car on 4 stands to paint my calipers all at once by jacking each pinch one at a time with a hockey puck (same as you have) and placing a stand under. I did rear then front. I used the subframe on the front end and were no issues.

 

[snobrdrdan]

For stuff like this, it's really easy if you just get another floor jack. Jack both sides of the car up from the jack points, place jack stands under the sub-frame, lower the car so the majority of the weight is on the stands, but leave the jacks in contact (valve closed) for stability.

Edit: This is better too, since, if you jack each side of the car up (say in 4" increments), the car is not going to be lifted pretty much evenly from side to side. This eliminates the bad angles that might cause jack or jack stand slippage from trying to lift one side at a time.

x2 on this

 

[pcguru83]

I got the ECS kit for my MK7, I started to put them in when I was putting the winter wheels on. It was a pain in the ass and I got 1 of the 4 in (rear passenger side). I'll probably will put the rear driver side in. Looking at the fronts then I've decided I'm not going to bother. I might get the OEM solution that maintains the underbody plastic (There is none of that to worry about for the rears).

I was not aware that there was an OEM solution that maintains the underbody plastic. Do you have more info on this you could share?

I got my car on 4 stands to paint my calipers all at once by jacking each pinch one at a time with a hockey puck (same as you have) and placing a stand under. I did rear then front. I used the subframe on the front end and were no issues.

This is exactly what I think I'll end up doing for now, only just for the front. My plan would be to jack up the car in the front at the drivers side pinch weld, then place one jack stand under the subframe. Once that jack stand is in place, move to the passenger's side pinch weld, and then place another jack stand on the opposite side. I'm really not going to be working underneath the car this time, so I think I'm OK with this solution. But I suppose I'll make plans to get a second floor jack so that this isn't an issue going forward.

 

[Tone1]

So just to clarify, when jacking up I've simply been using the included scissor jack without a hockey puck. Should I throw away my car and get a new one or is it OK to skip the puck?

 

[soundmike]

If not too much for anyone, but can a photo be posted of where on the subframe a jack stand can be placed?

I've held off rotating tires for a while now. Being so new to the GTI platform i don't want to mess anything up. I used to be able to jack my prior car from the middle front sub and/or rear differential, placing the stands on the pinch welds.

With the GTI, i've read you can't lift from the sub so pinch welds it is, but then i have no clue where to put the stands.

Thank you.