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Is my clutch [finally] slipping?

R

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
jimlloyd40 said:
The clutch will slip more easily in a lower gear when there's a lot of torque. At 60 mph in 6th gear you're just lugging the motor and risk other worse damage.
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This is what happened with mine. The first signs of slip were in 4th and 2nd, giving it full beans while in the power band.

After that started happening, and figuring a replacement was imminent anyway, I checked what would happen flooring it at low rpm in 6th and it was fine. Slip as described above got worse and worse but 6th was always fine. Weird?

Stock made it about 2 weeks after going stage 2 at 45k miles, with 10k miles of stage 1 before it.
 
patrick_b

patrick_b

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Newburyport, MA
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE 6MT
sharkbait20 said:
I am trying to plan my own upgrade path and was looking for solutions for the same problem. I was under the impression that this kit was designed so that you did NOT have to purchase a flywheel, instead re-using the stock dual-mass wheel, minimizing the rattle/chatter and/or whatever else that comes with single-mass flywheels, as well as keeping overall costs down?
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ZachMK7 said:
If you have low miles and your clutch hasn't slipped yet then I wouldn't worry about replacing the flywheel. In the case of the OP, at 65k miles if you're going to replace the clutch then you should do the flywheel too, and the flywheel can get damaged after the clutch starts slipping.
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My thoughts exactly. FCP indicated that you can reuse the stock flywheel but I ordered a replacement at the recommendation of my VW/Audi mechanic. If he recommends replacement, I'll have the part ready. I suspect it just makes sense to replace it given the scope of the job, mileage, etc.

CarlosCanizares said:
Don’t forget to replace the RMS as well.
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Ordered that too! Install scheduled for tomorrow.
 
S

sharkbait20

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
RI
Car(s)
GTI SE
I bought mine as a CPO with 26K miles. Car (to my knowledge) is bone stock and have no issues with slippage.
When I went to my local APR dealer, he strongly recommended a clutch upgrade with any tune, but said I may be able to get away with a low torque stage 1 tune without having to replace the clutch (immediately at least).

car is a daily so I dont want to go crazy with mods (both for daily reasons and financial).

On a separate note, I have been trying to do some research on which tune might be best for me. Seems like there are APR, Racingline, Cobb, Injen, and JB1/4 as main options. One of my most unanswered questions thus far: is JB1/4 a standalone tune by itself or is it typically piggybacked with one of the other tunes? If piggybacked, what are the advantages? (sorry if this is a thread hijack)
 
jimlloyd40

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
sharkbait20 said:
I bought mine as a CPO with 26K miles. Car (to my knowledge) is bone stock and have no issues with slippage.
When I went to my local APR dealer, he strongly recommended a clutch upgrade with any tune, but said I may be able to get away with a low torque stage 1 tune without having to replace the clutch (immediately at least).

car is a daily so I dont want to go crazy with mods (both for daily reasons and financial).

On a separate note, I have been trying to do some research on which tune might be best for me. Seems like there are APR, Racingline, Cobb, Injen, and JB1/4 as main options. One of my most unanswered questions thus far: is JB1/4 a standalone tune by itself or is it typically piggybacked with one of the other tunes? If piggybacked, what are the advantages? (sorry if this is a thread hijack)
Click to expand...

JB1 or JB4 are either standalone or piggyback. Welcome to the forum also. I think one of the most recommended tunes is Cobb with EQT as the tuner.
 
blaqsheep

blaqsheep

Autocross Champion
Location
Canada
Car(s)
IS38 GTI
patrick_b said:
I'm fairly certain I know the answer to this but...6th gear on the highway, about 2K RPM, floor it and the RPM's jump a bit before the vehicle accelerates. A second later, power seems to kick in and it accelerates as normal.
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Yikes. Yeah... don't do this, ever - you're lugging the engine and inducing clutch slip.

The Sachs SRE clutch (kit you linked from FCP) is nice, should hold north of 400 ft-lbs of torque. I'm running that currently in my car. Replace the flywheel as well. No need for a Fluidampr, more recommended for single mass flywheel clutch setups. The billet iAbed rear main seal is good for preventative maintenance since you're already there.
 
patrick_b

patrick_b

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Newburyport, MA
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE 6MT
blaqsheep said:
Yikes. Yeah... don't do this, ever - you're lugging the engine and inducing clutch slip.

The Sachs SRE clutch (kit you linked from FCP) is nice, should hold north of 400 ft-lbs of torque. I'm running that currently in my car. Replace the flywheel as well. No need for a Fluidampr, more recommended for single mass flywheel clutch setups. The billet iAbed rear main seal is good for preventative maintenance since you're already there.
Click to expand...


Thanks. Clutch & flywheel getting installed now. I bought the same kit you did. Wish I knew about the iAbed RMS. I went OEM but if the original lasted 60K +, I should be good for a while. Did you do anything special for break-in?
 
M

mesaboogie18

Ready to race!
Location
MD
patrick_b said:
Can you explain what the Fluidampr does?

Edit: Crank walk protection. I get it. After watching chicago auto pros recent experience, that makes sense.
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I don't know if it actually helps protect against crank walk or not, but it's supposed to smooth out the engine after removing the factory DMF. I don't notice a big difference, but it can't hurt. Also, some say it helps quiet down SMF chatter, but I still hear it with mine, so YMMV.

patrick_b said:
Did you do anything special for break-in?
Click to expand...

I know this was asked in reference to the SRE kit, but for my SB, I drove like a granny for 1K miles. I didn't: Go past 3K RPMs, launch the car, slip the clutch longer than 3 seconds, or floor it/hit boost in higher gears. I also didn't engine brake to slow down, as SB said not to. As soon as I hit 1K miles, I did a 3rd gear pull, full send, with my EQT Stage 2 tune, and the clutch grabbed hard and the car straight up HAULED. Even before I tuned the car, I could feel the SB put down power better than the OEM clutch.
 
blaqsheep

blaqsheep

Autocross Champion
Location
Canada
Car(s)
IS38 GTI
patrick_b said:
Thanks. Clutch & flywheel getting installed now. I bought the same kit you did. Wish I knew about the iAbed RMS. I went OEM but if the original lasted 60K +, I should be good for a while. Did you do anything special for break-in?
Click to expand...
You'll be okay but it's nice to future proof if you're taking everything apart.

Nothing special for break-in. 300-500 miles with mild engagement, such as stop-and-go city driving to get some heat cycles in, don't abuse it.
 
patrick_b

patrick_b

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Newburyport, MA
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE 6MT
mesaboogie18 said:
I don't know if it actually helps protect against crank walk or not, but it's supposed to smooth out the engine after removing the factory DMF. I don't notice a big difference, but it can't hurt. Also, some say it helps quiet down SMF chatter, but I still hear it with mine, so YMMV.



I know this was asked in reference to the SRE kit, but for my SB, I drove like a granny for 1K miles. I didn't: Go past 3K RPMs, launch the car, slip the clutch longer than 3 seconds, or floor it/hit boost in higher gears. I also didn't engine brake to slow down, as SB said not to. As soon as I hit 1K miles, I did a 3rd gear pull, full send, with my EQT Stage 2 tune, and the clutch grabbed hard and the car straight up HAULED. Even before I tuned the car, I could feel the SB put down power better than the OEM clutch.
Click to expand...
blaqsheep said:
You'll be okay but it's nice to future proof if you're taking everything apart.

Nothing special for break-in. 300-500 miles with mild engagement, such as stop-and-go city driving to get some heat cycles in, don't abuse it.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the feedback.
 
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