I think I have a couple of them lying around from my ecs bleeder block. PM me and I can probably mail one to you.
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I hear what you are saying bigdave. This is the first time I've cracked the cap on the reservoir. Fluid appears to be clear up top, but anything is possible I guess. I've taken a look at doing more extensive flush. I think a couple pages back somebody described a reverse bleed that seemed to work in a circular fashion. I am hoping to keep it isolated to the clutch line right now as I suspect the block was leaking at the factory or dealer and somebody used the bleeder to inject some kind of stop leak. I bought the car with under 50 miles. I’ve also read that some manufacturers use a silicon based lube during assembly. Maybe that’s the culprit.
I may have to try this. Sounds like it's easy to do by yourself. One question, when you are priming the line from the brake caliper, do you just leave the bleeder screw on the caliper partially open between pedal pumps? Doesn't this suck air into the caliper?So I stopped reading around May 2016 and I must say that the methods for bleeding the clutch line described there-in is tedious and more involving.
I'll share my method of bleeding any clutch on any car and it's as simple as a length of clear hose and two zip ties.
Start by removing the wheel closest to the clutch slave and cracking the bleed valve on the brake caliper.
Remove the fluid reservoir cap and attach the clear tubing to the valve, securing it with a zip tie.
Prime the tubing by pumping your brake pedal a few times until the air is displaced. You can then crack the valve on the clutch slave or bleed block and attach the primed tubing and secure with a zip tie.
Top off the fluid reservoir and return to the cabin. By pumping the brake pedal nice and slow about 15-20 times, this closed loop, reverse bleeding, is sure to force any air trapped in the system into the reservoir where it can escape into the atmosphere.
Making sure to avoid the clutch pedal until the valves are closed will make the job simple and headache free. Remember brake fluid is corrosive and will destroy most things unless cleaned ASAP.
Good luck and happy modding!!
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I may have to try this. Sounds like it's easy to do by yourself. One question, when you are priming the line from the brake caliper, do you just leave the bleeder screw on the caliper partially open between pedal pumps? Doesn't this suck air into the caliper?
Thanks for the input. I tried something different since I wasn't entirely sure about the brake "assist" method. I just bought about 5ft of a clear tube and after I removed the bleeder restrictor and re-assembled the hydraulic line I just simply attached the clear tube to the bleeder valve, opened the valve a bit and gently sucked on the other end of the clear tube so that the fluid maybe came up 5-6 inches into the tube. By holding holding the suction I was able to see the bubbles make their way through the fluid in the clear tube and I stopped my sucking once the bubbles were not coming out but more clear fluid continued to come out when I continued sucking. At that point, I just closed the bleeder valve and removed the tube with a bit of fluid in it and I was done. I didn't touch the clutch pedal in any of this process until I was completely done. I pumped it up a few times and the feel was immediately exactly the same as it was before I even started. Started the car and everything worked great.Not OP, but no. The fluid is forced out of the valve into the line, and any vacuum is going to suck fluid into the system instead of air. It's similar to bleeding the system with a jar and primed hose