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Free MT6 wonder mod: OEM bleeder delay removal

dishwab

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Detroit MI
Question for others who have done this: how much air came through when you were bleeding it afterward?

I just installed a Euro short-shifter and did the CDV delete at the same time (2019 Alltrack). I followed the tutorials online to a T, got everything buttoned up, and bled the system with my Motive power bleeder. I was surprised by how little air came out at this stage. I had the system pressurized and bled it long enough to fill about 1/2 of a 20oz bottle with old fluid before closing the bleeder screw and taking off the power bleeder. There had been 0 bubbles coming through for a solid minute or two before I closed the screw.

I took the car for a test drive and it seems to be shifting fine, but I can't help but feel that more air should've come out. The clutch engages and shifts through the gears fine, so maybe I'm just overthinking it, but I swear it feels softer than it did before.

Anyone have a similar experience? Should I re-bleed, or am I crazy?

Thanks all
 

Wade_GT

Ready to race!
Location
Los Angeles
Car(s)
'17 GTI S 6M
If you did a good job preventing fluid leak when removing the restrictor, you probably did not get much air in there. If engagement feels where it should be, no need to re-bleed.
 

dishwab

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Detroit MI
If you did a good job preventing fluid leak when removing the restrictor, you probably did not get much air in there. If engagement feels where it should be, no need to re-bleed.
Thanks for the reply. I tried to elevate the line as quickly as possible and it didn't look like there was much old fluid in the catch can when I was putting it all back together.

I went for another test drive last night and I think it feels fine. The clutch pedal bounces back quickly and shifting seems alot smoother in general (especially in 1st and 2nd gear). That said, both the brake pedal and the clutch pedal seem to have a tiny amount of travel before anythings happens. I can't remember if it was always like that, or if its a new condition after this work.

Would bleeding the clutch have any effect the brake system? Obviously the fluid reservoir is the same, but since I didn't open the brake system at all my assumption is that part of the system would remain unaffected, correct? I know for sure that the reservoir never got empty during the process.

I think I'll let it lie for now...
 

Wade_GT

Ready to race!
Location
Los Angeles
Car(s)
'17 GTI S 6M
I imagine while the reservoir is shared between brake system and clutch line, the systems themselves are split. I got too much air in the line when doing the restrictor delete. Clutch went to the floor while brake pedal pressure was unaffected, so based on that, I’d say any brake change may be in your head :)
 

darthvaderGTI

New member
Location
Tampa, FL
Car(s)
mk7.5 GTI SE
Question for those who have done this:

I removed the valve but am struggling to bleed the air from the line. So far my process has been to pump the clutch a bunch of times, leave the clutch pedal on the floor, and open the valve to let the air out, then repeat until there's a steady stream of fluid coming out of the valve with no air. Only problem is after doing this for a long time I'm still only getting air out of the valve.

Anyone else have similar issues? Any advice on how to properly bleed the line if I'm doing it wrong? Thanks in advance!
 

uberdot

Autocross Champion
Location
🇩🇪
Car(s)
GTI S 6MT
Question for those who have done this:

I removed the valve but am struggling to bleed the air from the line. So far my process has been to pump the clutch a bunch of times, leave the clutch pedal on the floor, and open the valve to let the air out, then repeat until there's a steady stream of fluid coming out of the valve with no air. Only problem is after doing this for a long time I'm still only getting air out of the valve.

Anyone else have similar issues? Any advice on how to properly bleed the line if I'm doing it wrong? Thanks in advance!
I’d recommend just getting a speed bleeder. I think the screw is m8 x 1. I picked some up from AutoZone last time I had to do that. Replace the stock bleeder screw then turn about 1/4 a turn and pump away til it’s clear.
 

clarence35

New member
Location
LA
Any advice on how to properly bleed the line if I'm doing it wrong? Thanks in advance!
I did the same one-man bleed process like you and it took only 2 or 3 rounds of pump/open valve/bleed/close valve until properly bled. But I also never let my clutch line go fully dry, if yours did go dry it could take considerably longer to bleed.

Did you make sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir topped up during the bleed? The clutch MC picks up at the top of the reservoir, so you probably wouldn't see any drop in level for the brake fluid reservoir as you bleed out fluid from the clutch line. That is, the brake fluid reservoir can still look pretty full even though the clutch line has gone dry. For that reason, I try to keep the reservoir overfilled near the cap until fully bled, then turkey baster out the extra fluid when done.

If your line did go dry, I'd probably skip the one man bleed method and just find someone to help you pump the clutch pedal since not a lot of fluid/air comes out with each round of purging.
 
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