DKM Stage 2 Clutch?

[Redmk7gti16]

I have about 5000 on my DKM SMF stage 2. No issues just the chatter which i am fine with. Runs like a champ

 

[tgodon13]

Thought I'd revive this thread! I got my DKM Stage 2 Clutch installed last week and I have almost 500 miles on them. It was installed along with Fluidampr, iAbed RMS, ECS Clutch line (w/ swirl valve delete). My experience might be different from someone who gets just the clutch installed. Some pics here

The reason why I went Stage 2 is honestly because of cost, and the torque rating is more than I'll probably ever need. I've checked with DKM and have had some e-mail exchanges with them, saying the figures are rated to the wheels so I decided to go with stage 2 instead of the twin disk.

First impressions: HEAVY! The clutch was pretty damn heavy and grabbed hard, especially compared to stock! I haven't driven many other manual cars so it might not bother you. It was a bit annoying at first but you get used to it fairly quickly (I had to! Busy downtown traffic). Clutch engagement point was a bit annoying too, but not too hard to modulate. Haven't stalled it yet

The revs drop much faster now, probably because SMFW, so it was a joy to rev-match. Even with the clutch new and heavy, it was very easy to rev-match (not 5-6k RPM downshifts.. just 2-2.5k lol.)

Chatter... yep. I've never had a car with SMFW, and oh man... chatter was loud at idle! Even louder with AC on. Do note that I have Fluidampr too. Chatter isn't noticeable when you're moving, but when windows are down and at idle, it's loud even w/ the AC off.

--

450 miles in: Love it! The clutch has gotten significantly lighter, only a little bit stiffer compared to stock. Feels much better than stock, which always felt vague to me when engaging the clutch.

Chatter has subsided a lot, I don't even notice it half the time to be honest. I'm guessing it'll be less audible the more miles I put on the car. With the windows up and radio on, you'd hardly notice. I do hear some chatter at low rpm when you're picking up speed. I'm guessing that's just how a single-mass flywheel sounds like. Doesn't seem abnormal to me...

DKM recommended that I do a 500 mile break-in but I might just take it easy until 1k... just in case.

Any issues? I have been having issues with mine. I have about 3500 miles on it now and have had some issues since it was installed.
1) Clutch still lets out right at the floor. Had to remove the pedal stop but you still barely need to move your foot and it starts to engage.
2) This is the BIG issue. Once the car has been driven for 20+ minutes then parked for less than an hour and then driven again it becomes almost impossible to put into reverse, and very difficult to put in first. If you turn off the car it shifts fine and when it is first driven it is fine. It is only after it has been driven. I had the clutch hydraulics power flushed, new line seals installed but it still continues to happen. Never had a single issue (other than slip) with the OEM clutch installed. Any insight would be appriciated.

 

[Derushi]

Any issues? I have been having issues with mine. I have about 3500 miles on it now and have had some issues since it was installed.
1) Clutch still lets out right at the floor. Had to remove the pedal stop but you still barely need to move your foot and it starts to engage.
2) This is the BIG issue. Once the car has been driven for 20+ minutes then parked for less than an hour and then driven again it becomes almost impossible to put into reverse, and very difficult to put in first. If you turn off the car it shifts fine and when it is first driven it is fine. It is only after it has been driven. I had the clutch hydraulics power flushed, new line seals installed but it still continues to happen. Never had a single issue (other than slip) with the OEM clutch installed. Any insight would be appriciated.

Sorry man, been over a year since I had the car so I really don't recall much haha. I'm sure I never had those issues you're having though.

1- The clutch engagement point was definitely lower than stock, but after removing the clutch stop, it wasn't abnormally low/almost to the floor. I thought it felt normal for an aftermarket clutch.
2- Never had this issue at all. Something with the clutch or shifter linkage maybe? Or maybe you got a bad clutch...? There was a DKM thread and several people have had issues with them, but it was mostly the Twin disk Stage 3.

I had mine installed at a shop so I can't really say, hopefully someone who's done their install can chime in.

One of the things that I do remember is a weird 'grind' or 'crunch' feeling on the clutch pedal during hard upshifts and also mid to high RPM rev match/heel-toe downshifts. I found it odd... I could recreate it by pushing the clutch in and free revving in Neutral. The 'grinding' sensation in the clutch pedal is more pronounced the higher in the rev range I went.

 

[tgodon13]

Sorry man, been over a year since I had the car so I really don't recall much haha. I'm sure I never had those issues you're having though.

1- The clutch engagement point was definitely lower than stock, but after removing the clutch stop, it wasn't abnormally low/almost to the floor. I thought it felt normal for an aftermarket clutch.
2- Never had this issue at all. Something with the clutch or shifter linkage maybe? Or maybe you got a bad clutch...? There was a DKM thread and several people have had issues with them, but it was mostly the Twin disk Stage 3.

I had mine installed at a shop so I can't really say, hopefully someone who's done their install can chime in.

One of the things that I do remember is a weird 'grind' or 'crunch' feeling on the clutch pedal during hard upshifts and also mid to high RPM rev match/heel-toe downshifts. I found it odd... I could recreate it by pushing the clutch in and free revving in Neutral. The 'grinding' sensation in the clutch pedal is more pronounced the higher in the rev range I went.

Long story short is the DKM was removed and returned on an RMA from ECS after working with DKM support. Car now has a South Bend Stage 2 Daily installed and all is good. Looks to have been a defective pressure plate according to DKM support.

 

[Andrewbens]

How’s everyone dkm stage 2 clutches doing? I see some of you guys have a failed plastic tob can we upgrade to a metal tob bearing with this kit?

 

[WindyBoi]

How’s everyone dkm stage 2 clutches doing? I see some of you guys have a failed plastic tob can we upgrade to a metal tob bearing with this kit?

Im at 1500ish miles in (Covid hasnt exactly allowed me to put miles on) and its doing fine so far. No issues so far.

 

[Blueballs]

Hey everyone. I just found this thread now that I am looking for a new clutch for my 2017 MK7 GTI manual. I thought I might chime in because of my experience with the DKM Stage 2 MB clutch kit.

I have had my DKM Stage 2 MB clutch kit for ~50k miles now, and the reason why I am looking for a new clutch is because this clutch is starting to slip. I got the clutch when I was Eurodyne Stage 2 HT IS20. Used it for ~7k miles, and then I upgraded to IS38. This clutch has gone through 3 IS38 turbos, as well as an EQT hybrid turbo, all of which were tuned using Eurodyne IS38 software and then upgraded to a custom tune through Frank Mabo using the Maestro program. I have been custom tuned for ~35k miles now.

I have never tracked or autocrossed my car, and only have taken it through canyons and normal day to day traffic and many cross-state road trips. So I don’t necessarily drive my car super hard. I drive it spiritedly, but treat it nice as it’s my daily driver.

Okay, so now that you have some background I’ll now give my honest review about this clutch. Up until this last month, I have never had any slipping problems with this clutch. It does chatter...sometimes it’s loud and sometimes it’s quite. The grabbing point is great, and when boost kicks in, it grabs hard! You’ll be going through a lot of tires due the nature of how hard this clutch grabs, which will relate to tire spin. The clutch is heavy, I would say 120% more than the stock clutch, but that’s expected given its clamping load.

I have really liked this clutch. My only complaint is the consistency of the grabbing point. I am not sure if it’s the clutch itself, or if it’s me, but I am a 38 year old who has driven since I was 14 (grew up driving my Dads manual sandrail), and never has owned an automatic car. Every car I have owned has been manual, including an E46 and E92 M3. So I have lots of manual driving experience, but this clutch has an interesting grabbing point that seems to hop the transmission if you aren’t careful with it. Like I said, I don’t know if others have had this same issue, or if it is me. Regardless, that hop has been going on for ~25k miles. So even if it was due to the clutch, I still have put another ~25k miles on the clutch after that has happened.

As far as this being a clutch that is worth the cost, it definitely is!! If you’re staying IS20, this clutch will be perfect for you, even at Stage 2 HT levels. If you’re going IS38, it will be great too. I am not that familiar with how long aftermarket clutches should last, as this is my first aftermarket clutch I’ve ever had, but I would think ~50k miles is pretty good.

That’s being said, I am considering the DKM Stage 3 twin disk MS clutch kit, due to its higher torque holding capacity. I don’t know what my plans for the car are, but I have been eying an IS20 hybrid, which will be in the 450whp/450wtq range, and if I got the DKM Stage 2 clutch again, I don’t think it is strong enough to hold that power. But I am concerned about the twin-disk crank walk that others have had. So I am in a bind on what to do. Other clutch brands are just way too expensive for what I want to spend, like SouthBend. Just not worth it to me considering my good experinve I’ve had with DKM, and how DKM’s prices are much better than anyone else.

What do you guys think I should do? Stick with DOM Stage 2, due to its really good price, or DKM twin-disk, and risk crank walk?

 

[JerseyDrew77]

I say go for the DKM Stage 3 kit. The CW issue is a very small percentage.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I thought of that crank walk Facebook poll, many cars were southbend also, and other brands.

 

[19 r]

Failing Thrust Bearings and Crank Walk (caused by bearing failure):

Like many, I'm considering a better clutch for my '19 R. But, the thoughts of replacing the engine due to Thrust Bearing failure caused by a high thrust pressure plate have caused real concern. So, I have done considerable research into the bearing problem and have arrived at one suggestion that should help the bearing's longevity - KEEP THE CLUTCH RELEASED AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, ESPECIALLY ON COLD STARTS !

I hit the Start button, slip the tranny into Neutral, and let the clutch out as soon as the engine fires. Then, I let it idle 10 seconds while I close the door, buckle up, and the engine starts dropping off high idle before pushing the clutch in. I also bump it to neutral and let the clutch out at lights and any other time I will be sitting still for more than a few seconds. But, the cold start sequence is most important.

The cold start sequence I use is to allow a good dose of oil to reach the bearing before spinning the crank against it. The bearing is plastic (probably UHMW - Ultra High Molecular Weigh), and although very durable, even UHMW plastic will get brittle with repeated heat cycles. The kind of heat caused by spinning dry against a metal surface. Consider - You crank your car cold, in gear with the clutch in. Now you sit there for 10 to 15 seconds until the engine drops out of high idle, still in gear with clutch in, with No fresh oil on the plastic thrust bearing.

This is just a thought/suggestion. It's something I've made myself do until it's become habit. These engines are not cheap, and I don't mind doing something this simple if there is any possibility it will help mine last longer.

PS. Great info here. Running a BMS JB4, I'm probably going have to make use of all this information before to long - Thanks !

 

[Escape Hatch]

I say go for the DKM Stage 3 kit. The CW issue is a very small percentage.

I have the DKM MS clutch with mid 400 whp for over 20k miles now and love it. I have yet to find any negatives to the upgrade, well, other than some chatter with the AC on.

 

[Desslok]

Failing Thrust Bearings and Crank Walk (caused by bearing failure):

Like many, I'm considering a better clutch for my '19 R. But, the thoughts of replacing the engine due to Thrust Bearing failure caused by a high thrust pressure plate have caused real concern. So, I have done considerable research into the bearing problem and have arrived at one suggestion that should help the bearing's longevity - KEEP THE CLUTCH RELEASED AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, ESPECIALLY ON COLD STARTS !

I hit the Start button, slip the tranny into Neutral, and let the clutch out as soon as the engine fires. Then, I let it idle 10 seconds while I close the door, buckle up, and the engine starts dropping off high idle before pushing the clutch in. I also bump it to neutral and let the clutch out at lights and any other time I will be sitting still for more than a few seconds. But, the cold start sequence is most important.

The cold start sequence I use is to allow a good dose of oil to reach the bearing before spinning the crank against it. The bearing is plastic (probably UHMW - Ultra High Molecular Weigh), and although very durable, even UHMW plastic will get brittle with repeated heat cycles. The kind of heat caused by spinning dry against a metal surface. Consider - You crank your car cold, in gear with the clutch in. Now you sit there for 10 to 15 seconds until the engine drops out of high idle, still in gear with clutch in, with No fresh oil on the plastic thrust bearing.

This is just a thought/suggestion. It's something I've made myself do until it's become habit. These engines are not cheap, and I don't mind doing something this simple if there is any possibility it will help mine last longer.

PS. Great info here. Running a BMS JB4, I'm probably going have to make use of all this information before to long - Thanks !

Holding in the clutch while you're waiting for the car to warm up? Who would do this and why? LOL
And my car takes several minutes before dropping from high idle. Even on summer mornings. Yours does in 10-15 seconds? I want my money back.

A friend in high school used to sit at traffic lights in 1st gear and foot on the clutch. I never understood why, when it only takes one whole second to shift into 1st when the light turns green.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Holding in the clutch while you're waiting for the car to warm up? Who would do this and why? LOL
And my car takes several minutes before dropping from high idle. Even on summer mornings. Yours does in 10-15 seconds? I want my money back.

No one does. Lol

Regardless of pushing the clutch quick you still put the pressure on the thrust bearing while it’s in theory dry.

good thing someone here figured out how to hack a bypass For the clutch on start up and even created a whole thread on it huh. Lol

 

[Ridebjj]

No one does. Lol

Regardless of pushing the clutch quick you still put the pressure on the thrust bearing while it’s in theory dry.

good thing someone here figured out how to hack a bypass For the clutch on start up and even created a whole thread on it huh. Lol

Some nerd with a degree in ghetto engineering?

 

[Desslok]

No one does. Lol

Regardless of pushing the clutch quick you still put the pressure on the thrust bearing while it’s in theory dry.

good thing someone here figured out how to hack a bypass For the clutch on start up and even created a whole thread on it huh. Lol

Gonna have to look into that. Getting a clutch upgrade on Thursday.