DKM Stage 2 Clutch?

[euroadb]

I know there are 100 threads about clutches, but I don't see much about DKM clutches on here, and when I do, it's always the twin-disk variant.

How are the DKM stage 2 single-disc clutches holding up?

I have a JB4 with downpipe and my clutch just started slipping. I will probably never go IS38, but there's always a chance and I don't want to kick myself down the line on clutch choice if that's the case. Problem is southbend stg 2 daily is only rated for 400 lb/ft, the next step up to stg 2 endurance is a segmented disk that I think is really meant more for autox, and then the next step up to stg 3 daily is overkill on price and torque rating for me.

The biggest thing attracting me to the DKM is not only the price, but the fact that it's the only stage 2 category kit that is rated at 440 lb/ft of torque while still having a regular non-segmented disk.
I never race my car and only enjoy daily driving and spirited driving. If I knew 100% for a fact I would never go IS38, I would just get the southbend stg 2 daily, but alas, the modding bug never ceases to amaze me and I'm not going to pretend it isn't a possibility.

 

[railroader]

I know there are 100 threads about clutches, but I don't see much about DKM clutches on here, and when I do, it's always the twin-disk variant.

How are the DKM stage 2 single-disc clutches holding up?

I have a JB4 with downpipe and my clutch just started slipping. I will probably never go IS38, but there's always a chance and I don't want to kick myself down the line on clutch choice if that's the case. Problem is southbend stg 2 daily is only rated for 400 lb/ft, the next step up to stg 2 endurance is a segmented disk that I think is really meant more for autox, and then the next step up to stg 3 daily is overkill on price and torque rating for me.

The biggest thing attracting me to the DKM is not only the price, but the fact that it's the only stage 2 category kit that is rated at 440 lb/ft of torque while still having a regular non-segmented disk.
I never race my car and only enjoy daily driving and spirited driving. If I knew 100% for a fact I would never go IS38, I would just get the southbend stg 2 daily, but alas, the modding bug never ceases to amaze me and I'm not going to pretend it isn't a possibility.

I would just get the stage 3 twin disc. It's a one and done clutch. It is extremely drivable as a daily in traffic, I think it's almost like stock as far as starting and going plus it will handle any modifications you throw at it no problem. Pedal feels great on it and twin organic disc will last longer than a single. I love mine.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[wave]

I have the stage 2 DKM, got it on sale from ECS a few weeks back. However, I have been working 10 hour days, 7 days a week and have not had the time to put it in. I hope to put it this coming weekend, and will update when I get it in the car.

 

[euroadb]

I have the stage 2 DKM, got it on sale from ECS a few weeks back. However, I have been working 10 hour days, 7 days a week and have not had the time to put it in. I hope to put it this coming weekend, and will update when I get it in the car.

Cool keep me updated.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[GTIManEG]

Go with Stage 3 twin disc, It feels like stock with a stiffer pedal but not much.
Remember that the clutch rating is at the flywheel, not wheels.
So 440 is still right on the limit.
With stage 2 cars putting 400lbs at the wheels it's more like 450ish at the crank. That's why your stage 2 is slipping and why DKM stage 2 will slip. It all matters how you drive your car on how long it will take for it to slip.

 

[Clifton@DKMClutch]

Go with Stage 3 twin disc, It feels like stock with a stiffer pedal but not much.
Remember that the clutch rating is at the flywheel, not wheels.
So 440 is still right on the limit.
With stage 2 cars putting 400lbs at the wheels it's more like 450ish at the crank. That's why your stage 2 is slipping and why DKM stage 2 will slip. It all matters how you drive your car on how long it will take for it to slip.

Hello, DKM's torque rating levels are actually to the wheels

 

[Derushi]

Hello, DKM's torque rating levels are actually to the wheels

Thanks for confirming. I'm still undecided whether to just go Stage 2 or 3... What does DKM think? I wouldn't need anything past 440 to the wheels so I'm more interested in how the Stage 2 and 3 compares in terms of longevity, performance driving, and noise.

 

[railroader]

Thanks for confirming. I'm still undecided whether to just go Stage 2 or 3... What does DKM think? I wouldn't need anything past 440 to the wheels so I'm more interested in how the Stage 2 and 3 compares in terms of longevity, performance driving, and noise.

A twin disc will have more longevity

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[steddy2112]

Thanks for confirming. I'm still undecided whether to just go Stage 2 or 3... What does DKM think? I wouldn't need anything past 440 to the wheels so I'm more interested in how the Stage 2 and 3 compares in terms of longevity, performance driving, and noise.

If you can weather the wait, the twin disc is the way to go.

Easier pedal, with more clamping force, organic discs, this is the type of clutch that OEMs use when they use a twin disc set up.

I am by no means knocking the stage 2 setup, but what if I told you there was a way to have your cake and eat it too? That's the stage 3 setup. It will have an easier pedal press than the stage 2 just by the way a twin disc clutch setup works versus a single disc.

One thing no one likes to really delve into as well when shopping for an aftermarket clutch is: how will it affect the rest of my driveline?

You see the stock clutch setup using a dual mass flywheel smooths out the application of torque downstream to the driven parts giving less shock to basically everything post flywheel. That would be transmission, diff, axles, CV joints, hubs, wheels/tires.

When you replace a dual mass setup with an overly aggressive single mass setup you take away that buffer, so it's in your best interest to still have a clutch that can slip a little so it's not abrupt taking off from a dead stop, and so you're not hammering away all the time in every day driving and beating up your driveline.

How do you do this?

Stick with an organic clutch disc that has springs in it. Organic does not mean "made/grown without the use of pesticides" unless you're talking about food. In this case and every other case it'll mean CARBON based. Carbon based materials can handle heat like crazy, be lightweight, all while being flexible, but not weak. Nomex, the fireproof material, is a carbon based aramid fiber. It's flexible enough to wear as clothing, but strong enough to still offer more sheer protection than say nylon or cotton.

They're strong, take heat, and are flexible, UNLIKE ceramics.

Ceramics handle MORE heat than organic materials, but are way more rigid, usually need some heat before they start working correctly, and usually don't handle improper use/working outside their operating threshholds as well be it too low of a temp(most common) or too high of a temp(very very rarely the case).

Ceramic based clutches hold a metric ass ton of power, but suck to live with day to day. The fact there is an organic offering that holds 660 ft-lbs means you'll never have to worry about the car bucking like an asshole if you drive in the winter OR making a ton of noise, along with being easier on your driveline ALL while being easier to live with.

Plan on making more than 660 ft-lbs? If you are, I am sure you give negative fucks about how easy the car is to drive and you're looking to blow things up anyways lol.

Plan on making 660 or less? DKM stage 3 all day. It's the perfect no compromise clutch once broken in.

 

[railroader]

If you can weather the wait, the twin disc is the way to go.

Easier pedal, with more clamping force, organic discs, this is the type of clutch that OEMs use when they use a twin disc set up.

I am by no means knocking the stage 2 setup, but what if I told you there was a way to have your cake and eat it too? That's the stage 3 setup. It will have an easier pedal press than the stage 2 just by the way a twin disc clutch setup works versus a single disc.

One thing no one likes to really delve into as well when shopping for an aftermarket clutch is: how will it affect the rest of my driveline?

You see the stock clutch setup using a dual mass flywheel smooths out the application of torque downstream to the driven parts giving less shock to basically everything post flywheel. That would be transmission, diff, axles, CV joints, hubs, wheels/tires.

When you replace a dual mass setup with an overly aggressive single mass setup you take away that buffer, so it's in your best interest to still have a clutch that can slip a little so it's not abrupt taking off from a dead stop, and so you're not hammering away all the time in every day driving and beating up your driveline.

How do you do this?

Stick with an organic clutch disc that has springs in it. Organic does not mean "made/grown without the use of pesticides" unless you're talking about food. In this case and every other case it'll mean CARBON based. Carbon based materials can handle heat like crazy, be lightweight, all while being flexible, but not weak. Nomex, the fireproof material, is a carbon based aramid fiber. It's flexible enough to wear as clothing, but strong enough to still offer more sheer protection than say nylon or cotton.

They're strong, take heat, and are flexible, UNLIKE ceramics.

Ceramics handle MORE heat than organic materials, but are way more rigid, usually need some heat before they start working correctly, and usually don't handle improper use/working outside their operating threshholds as well be it too low of a temp(most common) or too high of a temp(very very rarely the case).

Ceramic based clutches hold a metric ass ton of power, but suck to live with day to day. The fact there is an organic offering that holds 660 ft-lbs means you'll never have to worry about the car bucking like an asshole if you drive in the winter OR making a ton of noise, along with being easier on your driveline ALL while being easier to live with.

Plan on making more than 660 ft-lbs? If you are, I am sure you give negative fucks about how easy the car is to drive and you're looking to blow things up anyways lol.

Plan on making 660 or less? DKM stage 3 all day. It's the perfect no compromise clutch once broken in.

Well said

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Derushi]

Somehow missed the replies here... thanks for the input guys! I'm still moving around with the stock clutch so I don't mind waiting a little bit

A twin disc will have more longevity

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

If you can weather the wait, the twin disc is the way to go.

Easier pedal, with more clamping force, organic discs, this is the type of clutch that OEMs use when they use a twin disc set up.

I am by no means knocking the stage 2 setup, but what if I told you there was a way to have your cake and eat it too? That's the stage 3 setup. It will have an easier pedal press than the stage 2 just by the way a twin disc clutch setup works versus a single disc.

One thing no one likes to really delve into as well when shopping for an aftermarket clutch is: how will it affect the rest of my driveline?

You see the stock clutch setup using a dual mass flywheel smooths out the application of torque downstream to the driven parts giving less shock to basically everything post flywheel. That would be transmission, diff, axles, CV joints, hubs, wheels/tires.

When you replace a dual mass setup with an overly aggressive single mass setup you take away that buffer, so it's in your best interest to still have a clutch that can slip a little so it's not abrupt taking off from a dead stop, and so you're not hammering away all the time in every day driving and beating up your driveline.

How do you do this?

Stick with an organic clutch disc that has springs in it. Organic does not mean "made/grown without the use of pesticides" unless you're talking about food. In this case and every other case it'll mean CARBON based. Carbon based materials can handle heat like crazy, be lightweight, all while being flexible, but not weak. Nomex, the fireproof material, is a carbon based aramid fiber. It's flexible enough to wear as clothing, but strong enough to still offer more sheer protection than say nylon or cotton.

They're strong, take heat, and are flexible, UNLIKE ceramics.

Ceramics handle MORE heat than organic materials, but are way more rigid, usually need some heat before they start working correctly, and usually don't handle improper use/working outside their operating threshholds as well be it too low of a temp(most common) or too high of a temp(very very rarely the case).

Ceramic based clutches hold a metric ass ton of power, but suck to live with day to day. The fact there is an organic offering that holds 660 ft-lbs means you'll never have to worry about the car bucking like an asshole if you drive in the winter OR making a ton of noise, along with being easier on your driveline ALL while being easier to live with.

Plan on making more than 660 ft-lbs? If you are, I am sure you give negative fucks about how easy the car is to drive and you're looking to blow things up anyways lol.

Plan on making 660 or less? DKM stage 3 all day. It's the perfect no compromise clutch once broken in.

 

[GTI210]

Don't clutches have a safety factor/factor of safety just like most other things that are rated for a certain amount of load? Most safety factors are pretty conservative too IIRC. That stage 2 clutch that's rated for 440 lb-ft could probably handle 500 lb-ft pretty easily, imo. More than enough for an IS38 build.

 

[railroader]

Don't clutches have a safety factor/factor of safety just like most other things that are rated for a certain amount of load? Most safety factors are pretty conservative too IIRC. That stage 2 clutch that's rated for 440 lb/ft could probably handle 500 lb/ft pretty easily, imo. More than enough for an IS38 build.

The 440 is more than enough for just an is38. Dkm torque ratings are wheel torque and not flywheel

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Tigsel]

Don't clutches have a safety factor/factor of safety just like most other things that are rated for a certain amount of load? Most safety factors are pretty conservative too IIRC. That stage 2 clutch that's rated for 440 lb-ft could probably handle 500 lb-ft pretty easily, imo. More than enough for an IS38 build.

Manufacturers usually underrate them by 10-15%. I know for a fact Sachs does. I personally have Sachs SMF kit and I am very happy with it. It feels very OEM like.

 

[Derushi]

Thought I'd revive this thread! I got my DKM Stage 2 Clutch installed last week and I have almost 500 miles on them. It was installed along with Fluidampr, iAbed RMS, ECS Clutch line (w/ swirl valve delete). My experience might be different from someone who gets just the clutch installed. Some pics here

The reason why I went Stage 2 is honestly because of cost, and the torque rating is more than I'll probably ever need. I've checked with DKM and have had some e-mail exchanges with them, saying the figures are rated to the wheels so I decided to go with stage 2 instead of the twin disk.

First impressions: HEAVY! The clutch was pretty damn heavy and grabbed hard, especially compared to stock! I haven't driven many other manual cars so it might not bother you. It was a bit annoying at first but you get used to it fairly quickly (I had to! Busy downtown traffic). Clutch engagement point was a bit annoying too, but not too hard to modulate. Haven't stalled it yet

The revs drop much faster now, probably because SMFW, so it was a joy to rev-match. Even with the clutch new and heavy, it was very easy to rev-match (not 5-6k RPM downshifts.. just 2-2.5k lol.)

Chatter... yep. I've never had a car with SMFW, and oh man... chatter was loud at idle! Even louder with AC on. Do note that I have Fluidampr too. Chatter isn't noticeable when you're moving, but when windows are down and at idle, it's loud even w/ the AC off.

--

450 miles in: Love it! The clutch has gotten significantly lighter, only a little bit stiffer compared to stock. Feels much better than stock, which always felt vague to me when engaging the clutch.

Chatter has subsided a lot, I don't even notice it half the time to be honest. I'm guessing it'll be less audible the more miles I put on the car. With the windows up and radio on, you'd hardly notice. I do hear some chatter at low rpm when you're picking up speed. I'm guessing that's just how a single-mass flywheel sounds like. Doesn't seem abnormal to me...

DKM recommended that I do a 500 mile break-in but I might just take it easy until 1k... just in case.