Add HPA/Revo dogbone replacement and call it a day. 90% or more of the engine movement comes from this mount by design. This design so in no way like a cheap insert, it actually braces the whole drivetrain with its aluminum core inside the mount and stiffer exterior bracing. Very little additional NVH too, much less than stg1 or stg2 BFI engine mounts. Also easy to install, so you will pay less labor too. All around a win!
7
034 motor and trans mounts just installed!
- Thread starter Sportwagen SEL
- Start date
Add HPA/Revo dogbone replacement and call it a day. 90% or more of the engine movement comes from this mount by design. This design so in no way like a cheap insert, it actually braces the whole drivetrain with its aluminum core inside the mount and stiffer exterior bracing. Very little additional NVH too, much less than stg1 or stg2 BFI engine mounts. Also easy to install, so you will pay less labor too. All around a win!
GTI Jake
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
They way overcharged on labor. Even with disassembling my trans mount to install the insert the whole job (three mounts) took under an hour.
Sportwagen SEL
Ready to race!
- Location
- Burlingame, CA
What are the CNC machined torque arms for that come with it?
http://www.hpamotorsports.com/product_motormounts.html
Wish I could just buy the dogbone by itself so I don't have to pay $299 when I'm only using the insert...
Sportwagen SEL
Ready to race!
- Location
- Burlingame, CA
What's the difference between the Revo mount and the HPA one? The HPA one is $299 while the revo is $126, is the HPA one really that much better?
Dave10781
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Austin, TX
The HPA includes the metal arm. The Revo is the mount only. May not be necessary to have both though.
Sportwagen SEL
Ready to race!
- Location
- Burlingame, CA
Does the metal arm make a big difference? Wondering if I need it or not...
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Yes and no. Understand that the new mount is much more rigid and will put extra stress on the cheap/thin factory brace causing it to flex. Basically you aren't getting the full effect of the new mount without the arm. I'm going to PM you my buddy you can get a the HPA mount slightly cheaper if you want it.
Muzdub
Ready to race!
- Location
- Greater Seattle
PM me too please RJ, Thanks!
Sportwagen SEL
Ready to race!
- Location
- Burlingame, CA
That would be awesome thanks!
55belairgasser
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Parrish FL.
RjRacing if you could PM me also I am in the market for one. Thanks - Lance
ExcelerateRep1
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Branford, CT
Wheel hop is not all in the engine and transmission mounts. We have noticed the same thing from almost any combination. Suspension type is also a key factor in wheel hop in my opinion on the FWD models. The only suspension we have found to limit and just about cure wheel hop are MSS Springs. Many can attest to our findings.
Not all hope is lost!
KawaZukiVdub
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Latveria
I think I will go this route.... Hey can you please PM me that link for the cheaper dogbone mount as well? If you get this mount can you still use the 034 insert?
Dave10781
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Austin, TX
The HPA dogbone mount eliminates the need (and the possibility) of using the inserts. It's a solid puck. Same for the Revo mount.
KawaZukiVdub
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Latveria
Ahh ok, thanks for letting me know! The 034 insert is probably bent now anyways lol plus it was always really just a bandaid (a nice bandaid) until real solutions became available.
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
First of all, if I remember correctly, the combination of keeping these at 50-60 durometer rubber plus them being void-free make them over 50% stiffer than stock... again, if I remember right. These are perfect for those of us wanting better OEM+ engine/trans mounts without killing our ride via NVH. This appeals to me because BFI engine/trans mounts have been proven to cause false knock readings in the ECU, cutting power to the engine. I'm hoping that these are just stiff enough to reduce slop/wheel hop without producing false knock readings and adding too much NVH.
Secondly, proper suspension and a dogbone mount (not just insert) are more key to eliminating wheel hop than the engine/trans mounts. You didn't waste your money, don't worry. Just get you a HPA dogbone and I guarantee you'll feel much more solid, as the dogbone is responsible for the majority of the forward/backward engine movement.
Also, my shop is charging me one hour of labor to have these installed. Whoever got quoted 3 hours is getting boned. I'm doing it next Friday, super stoked. I'm pretty sure these are going to be perfect for me, along with the 034 RSB and ED adjustable endlinks. Stage 2 mounts are overkill IMHO and cause false knock readings, like I said, as well as too much NVH (for my taste).
Anyway... I may of blabbered too much there, it's 4AM and I'm going to bed. That's just my 2 cents and somewhat educated opinion from my research, I could be totally wrong about everything I just said, so... do your own research
Secondly, proper suspension and a dogbone mount (not just insert) are more key to eliminating wheel hop than the engine/trans mounts. You didn't waste your money, don't worry. Just get you a HPA dogbone and I guarantee you'll feel much more solid, as the dogbone is responsible for the majority of the forward/backward engine movement.
Also, my shop is charging me one hour of labor to have these installed. Whoever got quoted 3 hours is getting boned. I'm doing it next Friday, super stoked. I'm pretty sure these are going to be perfect for me, along with the 034 RSB and ED adjustable endlinks. Stage 2 mounts are overkill IMHO and cause false knock readings, like I said, as well as too much NVH (for my taste).
Anyway... I may of blabbered too much there, it's 4AM and I'm going to bed. That's just my 2 cents and somewhat educated opinion from my research, I could be totally wrong about everything I just said, so... do your own research