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Eurodyne Updates

M

MadMen

Ready to race!
Location
Mooresville, NC
If you have Maestro, it's easy enough to bump your low end boost up by yourself.....
 
G

gmi99

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Florida
So I emailed ED and they recommended the IS38 adjustable file over the IS38 93oct file for my GTI. Right now I have it set to 93oct and 26psi (max is 28). I guess I need to do a log to determine if my 93 pump gas is sufficient. What’s the harm, if any, of bumping the psi to max (28)? I’m not using Maestro, just powertap with the adjustable file


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worldacgti

worldacgti

Go Kart Champion
No harm at all. Send it. There are limiters in those files that will not allow you to boost over 25 psi anyhow. But log it to see where you stand

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Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Hey fellow 6MT folk...

Anyone else having a problem with rev matching / blipping the throttle to downshift? It seems I can touch the pedal real light and it’ll still think I’m trying to NLS, and will hold RPM instead of blipping.

I took some logs and sure enough, the ECU thinks I’m at WOT on those attempted blips even though I swear I feel like I’m barely touching the pedal most of the time.

Am I just too heavy footed? If you could tell NLS not to activate until over 6K RPM or something like that, that would be super nice.


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Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Anyone else that is using NLS*, I mean. I didn't word that well. I know I posted about this once before, but now that more time has passed, I wanted to see if anyone else is having this "issue"
 
railroader

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Quebster said:
Anyone else that is using NLS*, I mean. I didn't word that well. I know I posted about this once before, but now that more time has passed, I wanted to see if anyone else is having this "issue"
Click to expand...
I have not been having any issues with rev matching,

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Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
railroader

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
W

Walls

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Reading PA
I have been having problems with the car shifting when launching my car. It hesitates/bogs down right after it shifts to 2nd or 3rd. I have Eurodyne's 7 speed DSG tune. I did not have the issue prior to the tune. It only does it after utilizing launch control. I tried doing manual vs automatic and had the same result.
 
S

Stew

New member
Location
Maryland, United States
Instead of starting a whole new post I thought I'd consult the brain trust that is this thread. I'm a longtime lurker and though I do my best to absorb the knowledge dispensed here, I fall utterly short. So, disclaimer, please pardon my ignorance.

Quick setup
I have a 2015 (56,500ish miles) SE non PP with a DSG and I've been Eurodyne tuned for most of those miles. My current mod lineup is roc euro open element intake, IE intercooler, ultimate racing catted/resonated dp, and the aforementioned tune, stage 2 adjustable (24 psi and 94 octane on the slider). I use e30 blend with only Shell 93 and e85. I've had zero issues with this setup and therefore, never logged (perhaps my first mistake).

Anyways, a couple months back a got a check engine light but with no limp mode and no noticeable decrease in performance. After about 5 restarts in went away so I thought nothing of it. Then it reoccurred a few more times over the last two months so I finally went to pull the codes at an autoparts store (I definitely need to invest in the OBD tool) and they got codes P0016 and P0000a... The "techs" there told me it was camshaft related and to get it to the dealer asap. So I flashed back to stock and booked an appointment at the local (non mod friendly apparently) dealership. By the time I dropped it off the CE light was gone. Nearly 30 hours after dropping it off they get back to me with the diagnosis (see image). I can't quite interpret the tech's assessment but I could easily assess the estimated financial damage to the tune of $2200. Ugh. So before I do anything else stupid, can anyone make sense of that report?? Have I caused permanent damage to the engine or do I simply need to dial the sliders back on the tune?? To reiterate, my car hasn't had any performance issues, no trouble starting, and feels and sounds great still. So, Any insights or help is greatly appreciated. AND If you're still reading this, thank you very much.
 

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Diggs24

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
Eurodyne has a built in code reader. Why not use it?

The fact it comes and goes sounds positive to me. If the timing was off you would have a constant CEL and likely driveability issues. Sounds to me more like a sensor issue? Sensor A is the one the JB4 guys unplug. Top right corner of engine behind HPFP. Have a look at it, the connector, wiring, etc....

http://www.burgertuning.com/instructions/S1_VAG_EA888_G3.pdf
 
Travis9935

Travis9935

Ready to race!
Location
Usa
Stew said:
Instead of starting a whole new post I thought I'd consult the brain trust that is this thread. I'm a longtime lurker and though I do my best to absorb the knowledge dispensed here, I fall utterly short. So, disclaimer, please pardon my ignorance.

Quick setup
I have a 2015 (56,500ish miles) SE non PP with a DSG and I've been Eurodyne tuned for most of those miles. My current mod lineup is roc euro open element intake, IE intercooler, ultimate racing catted/resonated dp, and the aforementioned tune, stage 2 adjustable (24 psi and 94 octane on the slider). I use e30 blend with only Shell 93 and e85. I've had zero issues with this setup and therefore, never logged (perhaps my first mistake).

Anyways, a couple months back a got a check engine light but with no limp mode and no noticeable decrease in performance. After about 5 restarts in went away so I thought nothing of it. Then it reoccurred a few more times over the last two months so I finally went to pull the codes at an autoparts store (I definitely need to invest in the OBD tool) and they got codes P0016 and P0000a... The "techs" there told me it was camshaft related and to get it to the dealer asap. So I flashed back to stock and booked an appointment at the local (non mod friendly apparently) dealership. By the time I dropped it off the CE light was gone. Nearly 30 hours after dropping it off they get back to me with the diagnosis (see image). I can't quite interpret the tech's assessment but I could easily assess the estimated financial damage to the tune of $2200. Ugh. So before I do anything else stupid, can anyone make sense of that report?? Have I caused permanent damage to the engine or do I simply need to dial the sliders back on the tune?? To reiterate, my car hasn't had any performance issues, no trouble starting, and feels and sounds great still. So, Any insights or help is greatly appreciated. AND If you're still reading this, thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Warranty was denied?

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