When to do pistons and rods?

[jaystonewee]

Much along the lines of the "what's the sweet spot" thread, here goes another question.

Good ole' 1.8T nevar lose seemed to benefit greatly from rods even with factory pistons when throwing gobs of boost at them (30psi). In the Gen 3 EA888 2.0L, factory rods are pretty good (forged), as are the pistons aside from the low tension rings. Cranks are stout (also forged) with rod bearings on the narrow side. Thrust bearings are questionable (not 360 degree; only in block, not in main caps).

I'm putting together an EQT Vortex setup on my 25k mile GTI. It's a 2nd car/good weather daily so I'm emphasizing drivability over peak numbers. Something around 400 hp/lb-ft is definitely pushing things and expecting stock like longevity would be unreasonable.

So, besides catostrophic failure or eventually wearing something out, at what point does it make sense to drop in rods and pistons in a 2.0 EA888 gen 3?

 

[JerseyDrew77]

Some will tell you that you shouldn't push the stock rods past 420 wtq while others will say they are good for 430 - 450 wtq. Nobody really knows how much the stock rods can handle or what's their breaking point. My max torque is at 434 wtq but I have all the parts in possession for building my block which I will be doing after the holidays. So to play it safe, if I were you, I would purchase a set of rods and pistons and install them when you can.

 

[bluekid99]

ive heard the motors good for 500whp but torque im not sure...im at 430wtq so im assuming im safe...although the car gets like 1k miles a year if that

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

yup, Drew answered it best.

also, when it comes to what the block can handle on any engine - it’s the TQ to pay mind to not the HP.

 

[billbadass]

I think it also depends on fuel, good E85 really is hard to detonate where as pump gas varies more widely in quality and is more sensitive to IATs etc, so if you run it on E85 you can push the more and get more reliability. I personally would not push these cars too hard on pump gas at all and also would not do long full throttle runs. My car is on E55 fuel and has been at >460whp (on a high reading dynoe) for a long time, maybe 35k miles without any issues knock on wood.

 

[jaystonewee]

E85 is available at a station close to me. I need to check it out for actual ethanol content, but I intend to have it tuned for an E50 ish blend to help with pre-ignition/detonation. It's such a no brainer for the safety factor it can provide.

I've been toying around with the idea of a builder longblock from an S3/Golf R. Get the better head and such, then build that with rods/pistons and maybe valvetrain. DIY TCR kinda thing. Replace my CHHB with a CYFB. Any idea what other North American Gen 3 EA888's have the same head material as Golf R/S3's?

 

[Hoon]

The engine will tell you lol

 

[jaystonewee]

The engine will tell you lol

"Hey bud...knock knock. It's me, Rod!"

 

[Keehs360]

The sooner the better if u can afford it. If u got the cash, why not?

but as far as a clear cut “when would I NEED to” it seems like a few folks always say around the 400wtq range

 

[SugarMouth]

It is that one less than preferable combustion event that you are worried about.

 

[Escape Hatch]

The sooner the better if u can afford it. If u got the cash, why not?

but as far as a clear cut “when would I NEED to” it seems like a few folks always say around the 400wtq range

Tuners have said 420 wtq is about the "safe" limit.

 

[EpicTech]

Lovely, so Im just below the threshold of needing pistons and rods.

 

[Hoon]

Lovely, so Im just below the threshold of needing pistons and rods.

You and every other MK7

 

[Keehs360]

Tuners have said 420 wtq is about the "safe" limit.

I stand corrected

 

[Keehs360]

You and every other MK7

Sir I’ll have u know I only dyno’d at 320wtq