Street Touring Hatchback (STH) discussion/setup

[mrmatto]

Were you running the AP version or BL PCV?
If AP did you ever swap to BL? I'm torn between which option to try first. I'd like to keep it simple equipment wise but if the BL PCV wont really do it then might as well launch with the BMS CC and be done.

AP. BL worked terribly in my car. Possibly a quality control issue, not sure. Catch can was filling up in regular driving with the BL. Stuck with AP + CC and it’s been flawless.

It’s worth trying the BL since it has worked for others.

 

[mkvii.717]

After my very first autocross event, I realized I needed a catch can. Oil smoke and stumbling after a hard hairpin turn.

I got a simple in-line can from BMS and it works perfectly. I probably don’t get more than a 1/4 teaspoon in there each event, but that makes the difference . Zero issues since.

Interesting I did three events last season with no issues like that. This year I am switching to rt660 and will be adding quite a bit of camber therefore I assume forces will be higher and suddenly concerned but all the ones I have seen are like 600+.

 

[mrmatto]

Interesting I did three events last season with no issues like that. This year I am switching to rt660 and will be adding quite a bit of camber therefore I assume forces will be higher and suddenly concerned but all the ones I have seen are like 600+.

Yeah it’s pretty inconsistent from car to car, it seems.

The expensive kits are usually replacing the PCV plate too. The BMS kit is just a simple in-line can to catch any overflow that works with your stock PCV. Inexpensive and effective.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

With all the talk of PCV plates, this is a reminder that the OEM PCV must be un altered, so I recommend the in-line AOS/CC types to remain Street Touring legal.

 

[GTIfan99]

Catch cans when did you guys decide you needed to run them and those that are running them are you seeing a lot collected during autox?

I decided to run one when I got huge clouds of oil smoke while turning and braking, even with new PCV (both BM and BL).

How much oil you collect will depend of your driving skill, tires, and condition of your PCV.

I get about a 1/8 in of oil in the bottom of my cc after an autocross.

 

[mkvii.717]

Thanks guys can someone link to the one you guys suggest I think you are right and I am looking at the ones that would take me out of the class which I do not want.

 

[GTIfan99]

Thanks guys can someone link to the one you guys suggest I think you are right and I am looking at the ones that would take me out of the class which I do not want.

This is the one Matt and I both use. The mounting bracket doesn't hold well, but otherwise easy install and easily reversible.

I believe Matt drilled an extra hole and secured it better that way.

I mounted as directed, but put some expoxy between mount and firewall.

I'm lazier than Matt.

https://burgertuning.com/products/volkswagen-mk7-oil-catch-can-by-bms

 

[Roald]

This is the one Matt and I both use. The mounting bracket doesn't hold well, but otherwise easy install and easily reversible.

I believe Matt drilled an extra hole and secured it better that way.

I mounted as directed, but put some expoxy between mount and firewall.

I'm lazier than Matt.

https://burgertuning.com/products/volkswagen-mk7-oil-catch-can-by-bms

I haven't done a ton of looking. I saw that a few folks were running the BMS kit for STH.
But rather than mounting it over the Brake reservoir is there a mount to attach it to the passenger side motor mount or in that area?
Otherwise it seems you could just buy the hoses, and generic can and come out cheaper or at least with a better mounting solution.

The trade off being longer hoses. Other than looks I'm not sure it makes much of a differences functionally right?

 

[GTIfan99]

I haven't done a ton of looking. I saw that a few folks were running the BMS kit for STH.
But rather than mounting it over the Brake reservoir is there a mount to attach it to the passenger side motor mount or in that area?
Otherwise it seems you could just buy the hoses, and generic can and come out cheaper or at least with a better mounting solution.

The trade off being longer hoses. Other than looks I'm not sure it makes much of a differences functionally right?

Do they sell just the lines?

I had planned to use a cheap generic can, but decided against it. The BMS can is properly baffled. The cheap generic ones come with some steel wool to shove in them.

You can have my generic one for free.

 

[krs]

Were you running the AP version or BL PCV?
If AP did you ever swap to BL? I'm torn between which option to try first. I'd like to keep it simple equipment wise but if the BL PCV wont really do it then might as well launch with the BMS CC and be done.

I’m in STU with the R, but I upgraded to the BL version, with the ECS can, which for the R allowed me to keep my windshield fluid reservoir in place.

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Volk..._Golf_R_GTI_20T_18T_Gen_3_TFSI_TSI_FSI_19023/

I no longer get any any smoke, and have never had to empty my CC.

 

[Roald]

Do they sell just the lines?

I had planned to use a cheap generic can, but decided against it. The BMS can is properly baffled. The cheap generic ones come with some steel wool to shove in them.

You can have my generic one for free.

I found a few on URO Vibrant , Vargas , Vibrant but unpainted Not sure how they're baffled really. And the Hose
So that vargas one seems like too many options. Especially so since I only just barely understand what they all are.
Vibrant ones seem good enough? But just a barb fitting with a screw drive hose clip would be cheaper? Then you need the hose and a mount.

All in you're probably getting close to the BMS can cost. Maybe all these parts could be found cheaper, but you're paying for the convenience of having a whole pre-assembled kit I guess.
You could always just buy heater hose from like Advance Auto/Orielly/etc.. The hose for the BMS kit is Thermoid 3/4" 250. The Uro hose allegedly has a 300Degree temp rating.
From there it's either making for finding a mount. Some 1/8"? less aluminum stock from HD would be easy enough to bend and drill.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

The Alltrack had an IS20, APR Stage 3 91 octane/DSG tunes, and that run was on a 95 degree day. I didn’t realize the car had shifted to 3rd, and didn’t downshift in the sweeper when it should have. I’ve since installed paddle shifter extensions and run only in manual mode.

Since then the car has been upgraded with CTS TIP, Mishimoto intercooler, on Silvers Neomax coilovers with 10k/14k Swift springs (re-valved by Randy O’Brien), 034 ball joints and front sway bar end links, Eurocode front chassis brace, H&R 25mm rear sway bar w/Moog end links, 034 Rear Subframe Mount Inserts. Ferodo DS2500 front pads. -3.7 front/-2.2 rear camber, zero toe. Apex VS-5RS 17x9/ET42, with 255/40-17 Yokohama A052.

It was a secret weapon in the cold rain on AO52’s recently. I’m trying to get back up to speed after falling off a ladder 01OCT with multiple fractures in both feet, left fibula and a burst L3.

And got 6th in RAW (quicker than the veteran drivers in a GT350, Mach 1, and Porsche Cayman Spyder even though I blew the last sweeper). I coned my fastest run which would have put me at 4th RAW.

Pungo is a tough lot, and not very representative of a normal lot, so good job.

FYI, the 034 front ball joints are not strictly STH legal because they change the distance (geometry) from the lower arm to the hub.

How is the rear doing? With your mods, and the tightness of Pungo courses you may want to consider some rear toe out.

 

[GTIfan99]

I for one, am done wish toe out in the rear. Completely ate a set of street tires at .3 per side.

I'll stick to zero and use other levers to get more rotation.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

I for one, am done wish toe out in the rear. Completely ate a set of street tires at .3 per side.

I'll stick to zero and use other levers to get more rotation.

.3 per side is HUUUUGE. <-----I would never use that much

wait, is that measurement in degrees or inches?

I'm at .15 (deg) per side.

 

[ChrisMk77]

I for one, am done wish toe out in the rear. Completely ate a set of street tires at .3 per side.

I'll stick to zero and use other levers to get more rotation.

Has any of you American track guys tried staggered setups? If you look at fwd mqb track builds in Europe many run 265 front, 235 rear or some more extreme 295 fronts with wide fenders and 265 rear.