Recoding the radio to eliminate Fender amp

[Adurm]

I recall that your car was totalled before you received the audison pack. Sucks about that and not getting to install in this car easily. Maybe you can add a fuse to the panel and get power? Then again, i might not fully understand what needs power and ground. I'd think the hard part is getting signal. There's probably some Facebook groups, gti or sportwagen, that would be interested if you have to part with it

 

[FSTSNAL]

very strange!
I assume that is for the non-fender audio system - or are you talking for the Fender as well? I find it strange they would revert away from the MOST communication system, since it eliminates any electrical noise between head unit and amp.

I have fender. There is no most connector in the glovebox or the amp Itself. No one has figured out how to retrofit the digital dash yet either. One person speculated that they believe they are using can fd like in the mk8 but no one is positive.

 

[Adurm]

I hope you get it sorted soon. Hurts my heart having quality gear waiting to install but stuck (as i sit on a bit ten, wide bands, mids, 2 amps, sub, cables).

 

[FSTSNAL]

I hope you get it sorted soon. Hurts my heart having quality gear waiting to install but stuck (as i sit on a bit ten, wide bands, mids, 2 amps, sub, cables).

I am sure I can get it. Two other things I am considering is to splice in to the connector at the fender to grab and sub the signals after the amp or try to recode and just use the output from behind the unit in the glove box. They just keep making it harder for people to mod. I hate the level of integration now and wish it was there but you could swap the head unit

 

[Adurm]

I feel your pain. I've got the fender in my gsw and despise it. Sound quality is awful. Door panels rattle and will require more deadening than I've already done. The rattles kill any enjoyable music. I'm going to go usb or aux out of my phone to my dsp. Skip the mib entirely. One less massive hurdle to overcome. My lg g6 has dual sabre dac and 512 gb card, so I'm pleased with that as a source.

 

[FSTSNAL]

I feel your pain. I've got the fender in my gsw and despise it. Sound quality is awful. Door panels rattle and will require more deadening than I've already done. The rattles kill any enjoyable music. I'm going to go usb or aux out of my phone to my dsp. Skip the mib entirely. One less massive hurdle to overcome. My lg g6 has dual sabre dac and 512 gb card, so I'm pleased with that as a source.

I may do similar. Just use iPhone to a usb dac.

 

[bboytaktix]

I feel your pain. I've got the fender in my gsw and despise it. Sound quality is awful. Door panels rattle and will require more deadening than I've already done. The rattles kill any enjoyable music. I'm going to go usb or aux out of my phone to my dsp. Skip the mib entirely. One less massive hurdle to overcome. My lg g6 has dual sabre dac and 512 gb card, so I'm pleased with that as a source.

I may do similar. Just use iPhone to a usb dac.

Good luck! Going this recoding method + audiocontrol LC2i in my 2018 golf R (with MOST) so bypassing completely the OEM amp. Actually removing the OEM amp and putting my front component crossovers there - they fit almost perfectly to have the same footprint lol. Also had a bunch of gear leftover from previous car (4-ch amp, massive power mono amp and some sweet front components) that is just too nice to not use. I just purchased two pioneer Z-series low profile subs and going for a complete stealth build under the trunk floor. Also got 36sq.ft of sound dampening and some speaker foam ring kits for front doors to aid with midbass. Should sound pretty great. Might add a DSP down the line as well to finish things off (of course, if I can find the space lol)

 

[Adurm]

You may get a little delay in signal if you use the stock rear speakers off the mib vs what goes through the lc2i. I know when i ran mib front out to a bit ten, the fronts were too much delayed compared to the non processed rear that I just disconnected them.

 

[bboytaktix]

You may get a little delay in signal if you use the stock rear speakers off the mib vs what goes through the lc2i. I know when i ran mib front out to a bit ten, the fronts were too much delayed compared to the non processed rear that I just disconnected them.

Not using rear signal, going to recode ratio and use the front two outputs from the head unit in order to give signal to my 4-ch amp as well as the mono sub amp so everything will get that signal. I’ll lose the fader functionality but I never use it anyways - if gains are properly set between front and rear speakers I just set it and forget it. Tears are for fill anyways.

 

[Adurm]

This ain't your first go round. I'm certain you will be very pleased once it's all done.

 

[FSTSNAL]

Where I am at now is it looks like I am going 3 way plus sun. Just found someone selling my favorite tweeters from a decade ago for a fair price so I will be going the ap6.5 in the door, scanspeak 12m revelator in the kick panel, rainbow cal27 tweeters in the stock location with an Audison ap8.9 bit for now and then change to a ap f8.9 (twice the power). If I decide I may bridge 4 of the channels to a pair of Boston spz60 midbass I have and add a dummsub amp for a better sub. For now will be running the Audison 10” ap sub.

I plan to test pulling the signal from the head unit and then wire the speakers directly with the exception of the door I plan to try to splice in to the fender amp connector.

 

[bboytaktix]

Where I am at now is it looks like I am going 3 way plus sun. Just found someone selling my favorite tweeters from a decade ago for a fair price so I will be going the ap6.5 in the door, scanspeak 12m revelator in the kick panel, rainbow cal27 tweeters in the stock location with an Audison ap8.9 bit for now and then change to a ap f8.9 (twice the power). If I decide I may bridge 4 of the channels to a pair of Boston spz60 midbass I have and add a dummsub amp for a better sub. For now will be running the Audison 10” ap sub.

I plan to test pulling the signal from the head unit and then wire the speakers directly with the exception of the door I plan to try to splice in to the fender amp connector.

Nice - keep us posted especially on the head unit reprogramming to grab the signal - my car is still in the dealership waiting on repair parts but I’ve procured all my audio build equipment and will be doing the build as soon as I get it back. Going passive components up front plus coax in back doors all off a 4ch amp, and a second mono amp for two low profile 10-inch subs built into the floor. Will start with an LC2i from the radio signals and then swap it out eventually for a minidsp.

 

[FSTSNAL]

Wanted to bump this. Got into it with VCDS and under long coding helper there are no options. In Ross tech they mention on newer models that you have to do it through adaptations. There are a ton of options in there, none appear to be similar to the settings listed earlier. Has anyone coded out the amp using VCDS on a newer car where you have to do it through adaptations? If so what are the correct options to change or enable?

 

[bboytaktix]

Sorry I can’t be of much help, I ended up going with a NavTV zen-V unit after doing more research. Crystal clear signal all the way up to max head unit volume on my DSP.

 

[FSTSNAL]

Sorry I can’t be of much help, I ended up going with a NavTV zen-V unit after doing more research. Crystal clear signal all the way up to max head unit volume on my DSP.

Thanks. Wish I could, but the MIB3 no longer uses most so that option flew out the window. I may be stuck waiting on idatalink if they ever figure out the mk7.5 gti and specifically if they figure something out for the NAR 2021