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Nine81's Silver Wiener Build

messrock

Autocross Champion
Location
Boston
Car(s)
18 GTI DSG
TBH it's more that there's just so much that could potentially go wrong in the installation process that scares me enough to go with the easier solution. I've done manifolds before, I've done LPFPs before, so MPI isn't extraordinarily new ground. And the added benefit of a little valve cleaning just makes it better.
It really seems like it’s a 50:50 shot that something goes wrong with the HPFP upgrade. Even the pre-assembled ones are a crapshoot.
 

Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
It really seems like it’s a 50:50 shot that something goes wrong with the HPFP upgrade. Even the pre-assembled ones are a crapshoot.
Yep, and this is what scares me off from it. I know there's a fair number of folks on here who are just enjoying the car for a while to then renrubecir it for something else, but this was my dream from when I was young, so I want it to last a long, long time. MPI helps that goal along, allowing me to make more power and adds more overhead.

also February 21 20 the coilovers get ordered 🥲
 
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Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Ordered.

1000005856.png
 

Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Alright, so after some discussion with a friend much smarter than I am, I moved the tailstrap to what should be a more appropriate and safe location. Pulling the trim was mildly sketchy, not a lot of documentation around SO there was a fair amount of learning. Definitely not something I would do in extra cold weather, I damaged the C-pillar trim a bit, but that's alright because I'll need to remove some material to get it into place with the harness tailstrap bracket. With the trim piece removed entirely though (and the side piece in place) it retains operation of the stock seatbelt in the back. I'm going to trim the (already damaged) C pillar panel to allow everything to fit, but I'm pleased with the overall result.

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Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Slacking lately on car stuff, I bought some bits for the dremel to carve some material off of the trim panel so that it can get installed again but it's been cold out the last few days. Coilovers should be delivered today, and next week is supposed to be pretty nice, so we'll see how adventurous I'm feeling. New strut mounts/bearings and the minimal hardware, but the new tool day photo should explain exactly how this is going to go

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I can't stop thinking about an EQT Vortex for it. Because for some reason, 400hp just seems like a nice number, and I should have headroom at that point too go faster if I desire. But for some reason I recall being told that IS38 was the sweet spot, and I just can't determine if I'm gonna be disappointed putting in the work to go IS38, and wind up getting a Vortex anyway.
 
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manu97

Autocross Champion
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
MK7 R
Slacking lately on car stuff, I bought some bits for the dremel to carve some material off of the trim panel so that it can get installed again but it's been cold out the last few days. Coilovers should be delivered today, and next week is supposed to be pretty nice, so we'll see how adventurous I'm feeling. New strut mounts/bearings and the minimal hardware, but the new tool day photo should explain exactly how this is going to go

View attachment 300137

I can't stop thinking about an EQT Vortex for it. Because for some reason, 400hp just seems like a nice number, and I should have headroom at that point too go faster if I desire. But for some reason I recall being told that IS38 was the sweet spot, and I just can't determine if I'm gonna be disappointed putting in the work to go IS38, and wind up getting a Vortex anyway.
1709305274766.png


Lower curve is IS38, mid curve is Standard on 91, high curve is Standard on E30.

Looks like you'll have more torque until 3200 rpm with the IS38. I typically downshift until I'm at least at 3500 rpm or so - but maybe that's a learned behavior with the XL.

I'm not sure how big the price difference would be between the two - the IS38 on E85 may outpace your LPFP, so that's a potential cost.


IS38 (400 used?) + HPFP (350-450 used) + Tune (350) + LPFP (maybe, $600-700) = 1150 - 1750 depending on your luck with your LPFP.

Vortex (1100 used) + MPI (600 used) + LPFP (600-700 used) + tune (1000) = 3300.

Nearly double the cost, but significant headroom should you choose it.
 

Daks

Autocross Champion
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
GTI PP
Slacking lately on car stuff, I bought some bits for the dremel to carve some material off of the trim panel so that it can get installed again but it's been cold out the last few days. Coilovers should be delivered today, and next week is supposed to be pretty nice, so we'll see how adventurous I'm feeling. New strut mounts/bearings and the minimal hardware, but the new tool day photo should explain exactly how this is going to go

View attachment 300137

I can't stop thinking about an EQT Vortex for it. Because for some reason, 400hp just seems like a nice number, and I should have headroom at that point too go faster if I desire. But for some reason I recall being told that IS38 was the sweet spot, and I just can't determine if I'm gonna be disappointed putting in the work to go IS38, and wind up getting a Vortex anyway.
IS38 is too small. Get a mamba.
 

Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
I looked a little at Littco, Mamba, and Tapioca or however the last one is spelled, I'm not a smart man though, and it gets a bit confusing. MPI + LPFP is already a plan because flex fuel would be very convenient, but then when we start talking turbos (which I would almost 100% buy new) there are just so many options. And then we start on things like AR, compressor maps, turbine and compressor sizes, and of course longevity, and honestly I get overwhelmed. I also don't know a ton about the various technologies and companies, there's SO MUCH to learn. I'm not particularly in a hurry thankfully, but I'll have to look at the Mamba stuff. The power onset of the IS20 is fun, I'd really like it to carry to redline though.

Oh, and these arrived yesterday:
PXL_20240301_221418760.jpg

The adjuster is a TINY allen key and I'm scared o_O I don't have a good relationship with allen keys. But I feel decent about the install process, and will probably start as soon as I put the interior back together.
 

BigLips19

New member
Location
Almost Milford, MA
Car(s)
'19 GTI SE 6MT
I looked a little at Littco, Mamba, and Tapioca or however the last one is spelled, I'm not a smart man though, and it gets a bit confusing. MPI + LPFP is already a plan because flex fuel would be very convenient, but then when we start talking turbos (which I would almost 100% buy new) there are just so many options. And then we start on things like AR, compressor maps, turbine and compressor sizes, and of course longevity, and honestly I get overwhelmed. I also don't know a ton about the various technologies and companies, there's SO MUCH to learn. I'm not particularly in a hurry thankfully, but I'll have to look at the Mamba stuff. The power onset of the IS20 is fun, I'd really like it to carry to redline though.

Oh, and these arrived yesterday:
View attachment 300177

The adjuster is a TINY allen key and I'm scared o_O I don't have a good relationship with allen keys. But I feel decent about the install process, and will probably start as soon as I put the interior back together.
I wonder if a new set of Allen keys would help, Bondhus, Wera, or Wiha are high quality with good 'bite' without being painfully expensive. Allen keys wear out over time which could be why you've had a bad experience in the past.
 

Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
I wonder if a new set of Allen keys would help, Bondhus, Wera, or Wiha are high quality with good 'bite' without being painfully expensive. Allen keys wear out over time which could be why you've had a bad experience in the past.
Fairly recently I bought a set of Bondhus metric allen keys and so far haven't had any nightmares (knock on wood). We'll see as time goes on, thankfully I don't see a ton of them now.
 

Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Warning: NSFVW butchery:
1000006012.jpg

I trimmed the C pillar trim freehand with a multi tool, since I managed to damage it some in the removal process anyway. The cuts and forming aren't quite as clean as I'd like, but the belts and everything move the way they should and retract unrestricted. Definitely broke some clips in the process, but not awful for my freehand amateur hour attempt.

Oh, and this happened
1000006013.jpg


I'm just a little excited. Just a little. You know. A little.
I'm so excited and it's been a goal for ages and so first place in a competitive class is a huge thing and I'm excited as shit
 

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
Car(s)
2019 Golf R
Warning: NSFVW butchery:

I trimmed the C pillar trim freehand with a multi tool, since I managed to damage it some in the removal process anyway. The cuts and forming aren't quite as clean as I'd like, but the belts and everything move the way they should and retract unrestricted. Definitely broke some clips in the process, but not awful for my freehand amateur hour attempt.

Oh, and this happened
View attachment 300223

I'm just a little excited. Just a little. You know. A little.
I'm so excited and it's been a goal for ages and so first place in a competitive class is a huge thing and I'm excited as shit

Congrats!
 

Nineeightyone

Autocross Champion
Location
Pennsylvania
Car(s)
20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Started on the coilovers last night. I won't describe exactly what I did, but I will say that it was sketchy as fuck (but it worked). Modified 2x4 method, everything came out without too much issue. Took a lasagna break and then came back out to seat everybody in place -- I've got around 5/8" to go to get the strut into the knuckle the rest of the way, then I can bolt this side up and start on the other. I think the answer here is gonna be spin the perch the whole way down, set the damping to full soft, and wiggle -- I've already lubed the hell out of the knuckle and the strut (because that's what worked when I've done this job in the past) so that should help as well.

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