MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

[Ezekiel81923]

Installing the ECS bleeder block right now and went to bleed the clutch and I'm just getting a lot of fluid out of where the block goes over the nipple to the slave.

Are these metal clips supposed to go all the way down and lock? Mine are very loose and I can't get them to snap in for the life of me

 

[Ezekiel81923]

Nevermind, I didn't have the block all the way onto the slave cylinder side. The clutch line clip is looser than the slave cylinder side but I don't have a leak and was able to bleed it.

 

[Ezekiel81923]

Part 3: Unfortunately, I put 60 drama-free miles on it yesterday just to have the clutch pedal drop to the floor this morning when I went to start it. The bleeder block backed off the slave cylinder nipple and the pin is gone. No idea how that happens other than the pin wasn't down far enough. I don't know how this thing is supposed to be positioned so that these clip down and stay but this little bugger has been getting the best of me so far.

Which leads me to my question - one of the metal clips has vanished. Anyone know where they can be acquired expeditiously?

 

[EpicTech]

Part 3: Unfortunately, I put 60 drama-free miles on it yesterday just to have the clutch pedal drop to the floor this morning when I went to start it. The bleeder block backed off the slave cylinder nipple and the pin is gone. No idea how that happens other than the pin wasn't down far enough. I don't know how this thing is supposed to be positioned so that these clip down and stay but this little bugger has been getting the best of me so far.

Which leads me to my question - one of the metal clips has vanished. Anyone know where they can be acquired expeditiously?

Dealer or Independent shop. Overnight from FCP Euro?

 

[Ezekiel81923]

ECS has them for sale on their site but that doesn't help me right now.

I found an old thread where people were swapping the stock clips over to the ECS block because the clips that came with the ECS block were so loose. Seems I had the same problem so I am going to try that tonight. Hopefully I'm not left with 0 bleeder blocks that stay on.

 

[bobloblawGTI]

Can I get a sanity check on some maintenance? Coming up on 3 yrs/20k miles; my local VW shop quoted me $450-$500 to do:

- Oil & filter
- Engine air filter
- Tire rotation
- Brake fluid flush
- Sport diff service

Does that sound about right or insane? (And yes I know you can DIY these but I live in an apartment with no garage or lift access so shops are the option for now.) Thanks all.

 

[Nineeightyone]

Can I get a sanity check on some maintenance? Coming up on 3 yrs/20k miles; my local VW shop quoted me $450-$500 to do:

- Oil & filter
- Engine air filter
- Tire rotation
- Brake fluid flush
- Sport diff service

Does that sound about right or insane? (And yes I know you can DIY these but I live in an apartment with no garage or lift access so shops are the option for now.) Thanks all.

Do you have the option to DIY anything to lower that cost? The engine air filter should without a doubt be something you can do on the side of the road, blindfolded, while being stung by killer bees. The oil change & filter I can see being a $100-$150 affair, if we assume they're using GOOD oil and filter, with dealer markup and labor. Diff service actually sounds plausible as well to be $100-$200, again markup of parts and labor. The tire rotation might take 15 minutes start to finish and has no consumables associated with it, and the brake fluid flush (which is a smart thing to do) is realistically another hour or so I'd say, depending on the method. I think the price adds up if that's for parts and labor, the air filter I think you could DIY for like $20 (I'm spitballing the cost of a paper filter here, but paper filters are good), which really would be inconsequential to the total cost.

Tire rotation and air filter I think could be done at a friend's house with a floor jack, I still will not use the emergency jack unless I'm trying to create an emergency. I haven't been to a dealer in quite a while, but it seems reasonable for what they're selling you on.

 

[bobloblawGTI]

Do you have the option to DIY anything to lower that cost? The engine air filter should without a doubt be something you can do on the side of the road, blindfolded, while being stung by killer bees. The oil change & filter I can see being a $100-$150 affair, if we assume they're using GOOD oil and filter, with dealer markup and labor. Diff service actually sounds plausible as well to be $100-$200, again markup of parts and labor. The tire rotation might take 15 minutes start to finish and has no consumables associated with it, and the brake fluid flush (which is a smart thing to do) is realistically another hour or so I'd say, depending on the method. I think the price adds up if that's for parts and labor, the air filter I think you could DIY for like $20 (I'm spitballing the cost of a paper filter here, but paper filters are good), which really would be inconsequential to the total cost.

Yeah that's a great point on the filter; I did the cabin one myself a couple months ago which was dead easy. Glad to hear it's not totally off the mark!

 

[dtfd]

Can I get a sanity check on some maintenance? Coming up on 3 yrs/20k miles; my local VW shop quoted me $450-$500 to do:

- Oil & filter
- Engine air filter
- Tire rotation
- Brake fluid flush
- Sport diff service

Does that sound about right or insane? (And yes I know you can DIY these but I live in an apartment with no garage or lift access so shops are the option for now.) Thanks all.

That's not outside the realm of reality in terms of shop rates. I go by what it costs me to do DIY this myself.

- Oil & filter - Oil/filter/plug is around $70. Assume they charge you for at least 30 minute shop rate.
- Engine air filter - This one you can do even in an apartment lot. Takes 30 seconds to do and you only need basic tools. New filter is maybe $15-20?
- Tire rotation - Obviously free but they're going to charge you whatever the minimum shop rate is for that.
- Brake fluid flush - $20 in fluid, $80 one time expense to buy the tool if you were going to do it yourself. Assume they charge an hour of shop rate.
- Sport diff service - Not sure what the fluid costs but assume at least an hour of shop rate.

$450-500 doesn't sound insane to me. I would recommend doing at least something on your own (the engine air filter is the obvious one here) to bring down the cost.

 

[bobloblawGTI]

That's not outside the realm of reality in terms of shop rates. I go by what it costs me to do DIY this myself.

- Oil & filter - Oil/filter/plug is around $70. Assume they charge you for at least 30 minute shop rate.
- Engine air filter - This one you can do even in an apartment lot. Takes 30 seconds to do and you only need basic tools. New filter is maybe $15-20?
- Tire rotation - Obviously free but they're going to charge you whatever the minimum shop rate is for that.
- Brake fluid flush - $20 in fluid, $80 one time expense to buy the tool if you were going to do it yourself. Assume they charge an hour of shop rate.
- Sport diff service - Not sure what the fluid costs but assume at least an hour of shop rate.

$450-500 doesn't sound insane to me. I would recommend doing at least something on your own (the engine air filter is the obvious one here) to bring down the cost.

Outstanding. Yeah will definitely do tires and the filter on my own, those are good tips. Much appreciated!

 

[milkduds]

Hi All,

Maybe a stupid question, maybe not.

I've bought a mk7 5 GTI from a dealership a little while back and there was no mention of the car being anything other than standard.

In sports mode though, the amount of pops and bangs from the exhaust at anywhere from 2500 rpm plus when backing off. I personally think it sounds ok but wasn't sure if it's maybe had a remap at somepoint. Is this normal for a standard GTI to pop and bang this much?

It also has some other signs of possibly being remapped too, such as loads of wheelspin, I could be driving along at say 50mph and floor it and it spins the wheels even with new tyres on.

Finally, a friend has a TT with a 2.0 turbo and this GTI seems way faster.

Is there a way to find out without taking it to a garage?

Thanks

 

[Diggs24]

MK7/7.5 never had pops and bangs so yes it was remapped.

 

[swcrow]

Hi All,

Maybe a stupid question, maybe not.

I've bought a mk7 5 GTI from a dealership a little while back and there was no mention of the car being anything other than standard.

In sports mode though, the amount of pops and bangs from the exhaust at anywhere from 2500 rpm plus when backing off. I personally think it sounds ok but wasn't sure if it's maybe had a remap at somepoint. Is this normal for a standard GTI to pop and bang this much?

It also has some other signs of possibly being remapped too, such as loads of wheelspin, I could be driving along at say 50mph and floor it and it spins the wheels even with new tyres on.

Finally, a friend has a TT with a 2.0 turbo and this GTI seems way faster.

Is there a way to find out without taking it to a garage?

Thanks

as Diggs said, P&B means it's been tuned, but easiest way to see is go WOT and look at what boost pressure is. Stock is like 14 psi I think (gauge shows absolute which will be like 30ish)....

 

[Treadup]

Part 3: Unfortunately, I put 60 drama-free miles on it yesterday just to have the clutch pedal drop to the floor this morning when I went to start it. The bleeder block backed off the slave cylinder nipple and the pin is gone. No idea how that happens other than the pin wasn't down far enough. I don't know how this thing is supposed to be positioned so that these clip down and stay but this little bugger has been getting the best of me so far.

Which leads me to my question - one of the metal clips has vanished. Anyone know where they can be acquired expeditiously?

Autozone and the likes typically has an assortment pack of those style clips. The ECS ones are brittle for sure. Next time you install the block make sure it’s pushed all the way in prior to installing the clip then give it a pull test (not super hard, like 1-2 lbs of force) to ensure it’s engaged.

 

[Ezekiel81923]

Autozone and the likes typically has an assortment pack of those style clips. The ECS ones are brittle for sure. Next time you install the block make sure it’s pushed all the way in prior to installing the clip then give it a pull test (not super hard, like 1-2 lbs of force) to ensure it’s engaged.

I ended up finding an old thread here that indicated the stock clips work better so I just swapped those over. So far so good!

It was definitely seated all the way originally, the ECS clips just suck. They never felt like they actually clipped in and one sprung out and allowed the bleeder block to back off the slave cylinder nipple.