Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[BecauseMotor]

Anybody else having a hell of a time finding this thread? It doesn't seem to show up in the sub forum and searching Macan doesn't work either.

In any case, these brakes are awesome. After they were installed the pedal felt odd. The first few inches didn't apply much/any braking which was unnerving. Made the VCDS/OBD11 changes, drove it around more. It started to feel like every other pedal press was normal. By the time I got to the track day the brakes felt normal, and much more linear than the stock R brakes. Did four 20 min sessions on them at Buttonwillow last Friday, CW13 and had a best of 2:09. No brake fade, tons of brake power. The PowerStop track day pads are a dusty mess but they seem to work just fine!

Swapped to the Z26 pads for street us, super easy swap with these calipers. I did notice that not all of my dust seals were staying in place which is a bit concerning. It's possible the RB seals are just a bit undersized, hopefully that doesn't cause problems down the road.

For reference, the wheels I run on the track are:

TSW Bathurst 17x9 ET 50 (w/ 10mm spacers) and I've got good barrel clearance (as long as weights aren't right on the drop center) and clearance on the spokes. I could probably run only a 5mm spacer and still be good there but it'd be close.

View attachment 209309

My Street wheels are Motegi MR147 18x8.5 ET 42 (w/ 5mm spacers) no barrel concerns and spoke clearance is good as well. 5mm spacer isn't needed for the brakes.

I'm also running 17x9 TSW Bathursts with the et50 up front. et35 in rears. Running a 5mm spacer in front and wouldn't mind stepping up to an 8mm spacer for a bit more flush look. So glad yours clear! Will be doing the swap once my pads arrive!

 

[flipflp]

I'm also running 17x9 TSW Bathursts with the et50 up front. et35 in rears. Running a 5mm spacer in front and wouldn't mind stepping up to an 8mm spacer for a bit more flush look. So glad yours clear! Will be doing the swap once my pads arrive!

You should be fine with either a 5 or 8mm spacer, I had 2 pairs of 10mm laying around so I used them but it wasn't needed. Some spacer is needed for the ET 50 regardless because you're going to touch tire to strut without it unless you're stretching a bit, it's a weird wheel spec for sure.

 

[B1mmer]

On my MK3 TT, I run 17x9 35mm offset wheels and all work with these brakes with no spacer (although I run up to a 10mm spacer autocrossing). This is with TSW Bathursts, Rota Grids and Advanti Storm S1’s. - AB

 

[skyther]

Are there any downsides with the pad swept area going all the way to the edge on 340mm rotors? I don't mind getting mk6 R 345mm rotors but they weigh considerably more (2.8lbs per side) for potentially little to no gain in braking performance.

 

[GTIfan99]

Are there any downsides with the pad swept area going all the way to the edge on 340mm rotors? I don't mind getting mk6 R 345mm rotors but they weigh considerably more (2.8lbs per side) for potentially little to no gain in braking performance.

There can be, it's pad dependent, which is why most of us use mk6 R 345 rotors.

 

[skyther]

There can be, it's pad dependent, which is why most of us use mk6 R 345 rotors.

Thanks! Is there a list of known pads with no overhang when used with 340mm rotors?

 

[GTIfan99]

Thanks! Is there a list of known pads with no overhang when used with 340mm rotors?

There isn't. Stop tech go ovrr to the edge with 345 though.

 

[nono0044]

There isn't. Stop tech go river to the edge with 345 though.

Centric posi-quiets are still running fine on 340mm rotors. I did finally buy a set of 345mm rotors for daily use as my current rotors are a bit fucked.

 

[flipflp]

Glad to hear it.

Yeah, the braking system and this caliper combo seem to hide air and take a concerted effort to get them bled properly, but once you do, it's a inexpensive and effective alternative. Glad you're liking them.

Ditto on the Track Day pad being dusty, but they're a fantastic pad for around $120. Did you change the rear pads, or are they stock? I used the Z23 on the rear, even though I didn't think it would make much difference, but it did. I was a huge believer in leaving stock rear pads until worn out, but doing the rears was worth it. I was getting some nasty understeer under hard braking and just switching rear pads greatly reduced it, no other changes.

I do just have the stock pads in the rear, actually just swapped them right before the track day to a set of TRWs (basically OEM) after nearly 60k on the stock pads. They weren't even fully out, there was still a gap on the wear bar, so the rear brakes don't do much. I know what you're saying about the light rear/understeer under braking. It's easy enough to swap the rear pads so I might try swapping to something like a Z23/26 and see if I notice anything.

 

[BecauseMotor]

You should be fine with either a 5 or 8mm spacer, I had 2 pairs of 10mm laying around so I used them but it wasn't needed. Some spacer is needed for the ET 50 regardless because you're going to touch tire to strut without it unless you're stretching a bit, it's a weird wheel spec for sure.

You running 340mm or 345 mm rotors?

 

[flipflp]

You running 340mm or 345 mm rotors?

Still running the 340mm. I bought slotted/drilled StopTechs 3 years ago and they still look great. I might hunt around for a 2-piece 345mm rotor later. I'd only bother with a 345mm if you're coming from something other than a 340mm, IMO. I didn't really notice any lips on the pads or weird wear on the Power Stop pads.

 

[B1mmer]

If someone wants some brand new 340mm rotors, I have them from my previous Audi TTS. I’d sell them for $25 plus shipping for the pair. I sold the car a few months back and don’t have any use for them. - AB

 

[zucchinies]

Finally came in after about a month. Sunset Porsche said they had a lot of orders for these. Just need to get the pistons out and seals before I send em out for powdercoat. I decided I am not going to split them. Did you guys re-use the piston seals? I have high-temp dust boots but really wanted to save the 80 bucks on new seals.

 

[Will_]

For what it’s worth my original dust seals still looked great after 8k miles and 7 track days so unless you plan on really cooking the brakes at the track I don’t think the upgraded seals are necessary.

 

[zucchinies]

For what it’s worth my original dust seals still looked great after 8k miles and 7 track days so unless you plan on really cooking the brakes at the track I don’t think the upgraded seals are necessary.

Huh I wonder if I should try and get the powder coater to do it with everything still assembled. If they don't go above 400* I think it should be okay and saves me a lot of time.