I was thinking that you would have gone the IMS route.
Can't justify a $5400 turbo for a $13K car. Thing is already useless until 4th gear lol.
Appreciate the response Hoon. You should start a thread with all the set ups you've done.
At some point i should do a "build thread". I don't do a very good job documenting the stuff i do.
Sorry to hear it man, have really enjoyed your contributions and hope you aren't done.
Not done
Do you have a borescope?
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https://youtu.be/gYuN8WQaV78
My borescope is an amazon cheapie, thats at bottom dead center and you cant see the walls at all. Top of the piston looks like shit though, i assume thats deposits from oil. Considering the amount of heat and ethanol i put through it, i'm surprised to see anything. The wetness is from the compression test, it hasn't been driven since.
Dude 18psi and little bit of oil consumption is nothing. With that turbo it's not gonna fkn care. I'd just send it this season, go for record then strip and trade
Nope it's still going to make power, but at this level i don't think it'll survive next season so i'd rather build it over the winter.
Step one, switch to a heavier weight oil.
Step two, check oil every tank of corn whiskey
Step three, keep an eye out for a lowish milage short block (or a whole crashed mk7 and part it out).
No way I’d build the engine in this case. If you’re not interested in chasing 9s and 6-700 horsepower chalk it up as bad luck and put another stock engine in it.
That’s what I would do anyway. I’m making a lot less power, but 81,500 and zero issues out of mine.
The thing is, the low mileage engines i'm seeing are about the same cost as what i guesstimate i can build the motor for. I need to do an itemized list and price it all out. I'm very confident that 99% of the motor is good to go as is.
Refresh the bearings and seals, new OEM head gasket, bore it only if necessary, and go aftermarket for head studs, pistons, rods, and valve springs. I have a machine shop about 2 hrs away that does awesome work at fair prices. He's an old man with a small shop that has turned out some 7 second, 10,000+ rpm 4 bangers. Euros aren't his thing but he has done some complex valvetrain work for me years ago, and i had no issues with it.
Sorry to hear man but YOLO so send it!!! So how are you liking the spool of the XL and how does it drive when puttering around on the street?
Liking it a lot. Only have about 250 miles on it so far and really haven't been able to lean on it with enough timing yet, but it moves a ton of air for a stock frame hybrid.
Spool and around town are not bad at all. I haven't driven it on pump gas, but on E it does not feel laggy, quite the opposite when you consider the top end. Shifting at 7250 feels too low.
I endorse this message. Even if you splatter the guts everywhere, it’s a mk7. It’s not like these things are expensive comparatively.
I need the block, crank, and head in usable condition!
Lol, would have never made it near this far.
awesome story! something incredibly rad about a 4 cylinder VW hatchback that can wreck shop on built drag V8 cars on the street....hahah. too much fun.
I'm sorry to hear that... has to be frustrating, but I second the "SEND IT AND FORGET IT" sentiment here personally. I knew a guy who was spraying a >200 shot on an Ls1 with literally 200k miles on it with nothing but valve springs in it, rings were so loose it would blow the oil stick out sometimes, thought for sure it would not last but he sprayed like >150 bottles through it and eventually sold it to someone else, who also kept spraying and beating on it like a stepchild. I believe it still lives to this day.
worst case I bet you can pickup a low-ish mileage shortblock somewhere for maybe $2,500
That's one of the reasons why i love the car, i'm a sucker for underdog cars.
As for that LS1, the loose rings are why it survived on that much nitrous. If the motors are fresh with stock ring gaps the rings expand too much when really heated, they pinch and crack the piston.
Sounds like you may be able to get away with just throwing some new pistons in. Obviously it would be worthwhile to do rods as well, but almost all of the failures on the gen 3s I've seen have been ringland related
Still sorting through the details/pricing. If i do rods, it will change the piston choice and add about $870 to the cost.
I have a hard time with that because the car is FWD. I can't use more TQ than the stock rods can hold, but then again i'm already there so why not just spend the $$$ and do them.
Tough decisions.
Where's the Littco L450??
West coast with it's new owner.
