BFI Stage 1 Engine & Tranny Mounts

[Twist1]

Begs the question. what combo of jacks/stands did you use to reveal the gloryhole?

The first time I did not even notice it with just the jack. Then once I saw how it was from looking up through the belly pan that got me investigating and testing. I eventually used jack on composite, stand on trans ridge. Both using a block of wood obviously.

 

[Twist1]

https://youtu.be/mb4JmQr0pgs

Here ya guys go. I had to cut the video quite a bit as I don't have a way to edit down for YouTube. I left just the two bits at the end about aligning engine and trans.

 

[demi9od]

Yeah but how do you move it around when things are not aligned? Can you disconnect the subframe dogbone bolt to get some movement?

 

[SugarMouth]

https://youtu.be/mb4JmQr0pgs

Here ya guys go. I had to cut the video quite a bit as I don't have a way to edit down for YouTube. I left just the two bits at the end about aligning engine and trans.

Curious why you did not use the supplied bolts from BFI on the engine mount.

I've done the mount job a couple times and can say as long as you keep an eye on the jack (good point on the jack lowering) and be sure you are simply supporting the weight of the engine/tranny, you should be able to simply remove the old and install the new. Both times I have done the job there was no movement from the engine/tranny when I removed the mount(s).

This is dependent on the way you lift the engine/tranny. It must be level (how you jack) and the car must be level. Trying this with a car not level is asking for problems as the engine/tranny will swing.

 

[SugarMouth]

Yeah but how do you move it around when things are not aligned? Can you disconnect the subframe dogbone bolt to get some movement?

You should not need to disconnect the dogbone. You will be able to move the engine/tranny once the mount is loosened. Just find a safe area to leverage and a pry will work. Just loosen the bolts (don't remove) on the side you need movement from and make your adjustments. Make sure the jack is stable.

 

[demi9od]

You should not need to disconnect the dogbone. You will be able to move the engine/tranny once the mount is loosened. Just find a safe area to leverage and a pry will work. Just loosen the bolts (don't remove) on the side you need movement from and make your adjustments. Make sure the jack is stable.

My bolts are all stretched though, so just loosening and re-tightening is not ideal.

 

[Twist1]

Curious why you did not use the supplied bolts from BFI on the engine mount.

I've done the mount job a couple times and can say as long as you keep an eye on the jack (good point on the jack lowering) and be sure you are simply supporting the weight of the engine/tranny, you should be able to simply remove the old and install the new. Both times I have done the job there was no movement from the engine/tranny when I removed the mount(s).

This is dependent on the way you lift the engine/tranny. It must be level (how you jack) and the car must be level. Trying this with a car not level is asking for problems as the engine/tranny will swing.

The original video was 10 minutes long. Going into detail about all that stuff. I couldn't edit it down to upload but yes you're spot on. Leveling is key and use a level if need be and electronic gauge. I've done 8 mount installs now. 3x on my car, 2x on another and 2 other guys.

I have noticed oem style seem to be better in the install and in function, but that's another topic (I even use the bfi ones which are not that design too).

I recommend do NOT use the front rail bolt bfi provides. It is not the correct distance, ie, does not give the proper amount of biting threads when torqued down that the oem one does. Use all the other bfi bolts though imho.

You can use a long crowbar to flex it around but again, if you're having to use a lot of prying to get right, one of the other mounts is not right. They are a triangle, they all support each other, work off each other and are meant to be aligned with each other. Good luck guys. PM for more advice.

 

[SugarMouth]

My bolts are all stretched though, so just loosening and re-tightening is not ideal.

True. Definitely get new, I do every time.

 

[SugarMouth]

I recommend do NOT use the front rail bolt bfi provides. It is not the correct distance, ie, does not give the proper amount of biting threads when torqued down that the oem one does. Use all the other bfi bolts though imho.

Interesting, I will have to look into this.

Update: Looks like any longer would just thread into air so I am good with the BFI hardware.

 

[KyACRASH]

Order of install:


Engine mount swap RAIL/Body only

Trans Mount Full swap
Engine mount Bracket Bolts
If doing dogbone do it last as it is kind of like a final lock on both.

Twist, thanks for the video and all the tips. After re-reading this thread I'm confident my install went so poorly due to not having the car level, and once the engine mount was off it just made the trans mount go in that much worse.

Can you clarify the order of install you posted above? For the engine mount, which ones are the rail/body and which side is the bracket bolts? Also, is it safe to have the engine mount bolts loose without a floor jack under the engine? (so I can use it on the trans)

 

[Twist1]

Twist, thanks for the video and all the tips. After re-reading this thread I'm confident my install went so poorly due to not having the car level, and once the engine mount was off it just made the trans mount go in that much worse.

Can you clarify the order of install you posted above? For the engine mount, which ones are the rail/body and which side is the bracket bolts? Also, is it safe to have the engine mount bolts loose without a floor jack under the engine? (so I can use it on the trans)

I would do the trans mount first if it seems to be really off. Crack the engine mount bolts loose. Leave dogbone in.



I believe BFI sent me a duplicate of the same frame rail bolt. That's why I reused OEM.



Use the composite ridge of the oil pan to jack car up initially until mounts juuuussstttt start to budge up, then support the trans with a jack stand. Leave jack at composite ridge and for some jacks, you may need to build pressure every 5 min or so so you don't lose a little height.


Note: Do not loosen any mount bolt (other than dogbone) without engine supported.

 

[Mrc5z]

I'm running the BFI stage 1 mounts with a 034 type dog bone iNsert and have no complaints. No increased NVH and no wheel hop. May modify the pendulum down the road.

 

[anotero]

So about that trans mount alignment hole: is the hole in the trans body supposed to be exactly in the middle of the mount slot? The service manual only gives parallelness requirements for the trans mount installation.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

 

[Twist1]

So about that trans mount alignment hole: is the hole in the trans body supposed to be exactly in the middle of the mount slot? The service manual only gives parallelness requirements for the trans mount installation.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Yes, up to down, side to side without any engine flex ,load or any flex, load on the mount. All three mounts should be in idle position. If it's not wanting to do that without crow baring it, something is not right.

 

[Cowzill00]

I believe BFI sent me a duplicate of the same frame rail bolt. That's why I reused OEM.

Just a note on this: my BFI engine mount bolt package only came with three bolts. I had to reuse the same OEM bolt you did.

When I contacted BFI, they sent me the missing bolt, but said it was not necessary to swap them. They actually recommend reusing the OEM bolt with that post sticking up if you're planning to run a catch can. You need it for that mod apparently.