2017 GTi PP at VIR

[Mini7]

Hey Joe, you said at one point the apex 17x9 will fit the PB 350 6pot kit, right? Was this only for the gen 3 caliper or the gen2 with external crossover as well?

I sent Apex the template for the Gen2 350x34 6-pot with external crossover. They confirmed that they would clear the 17x9’s.

 

[jmason]

Wow. I have only 1.5mm clearance with 340mm rotors with my Neuspeed wheels (17 in). Those wheels look like the barrel is constructed to provide a lot of clearance.
I would advise caution however regarding the use of a template. The template that Neuspeed provided seemed to be slightly inaccurate. And at the clearance we’re talking about, there is no margin for error. I am confident that I printed the template at 100% scale. However, the template suggested more clearance than reality.

 

[Mini7]

Apex is recommending there 9” for BBK clearance. Barrel clearance isn’t the issue. Back spacing to the hub and spoke clearance was tight for the large 25mm pad AP BBK from AP Essex. Which is most probably the most extreme fitment of any 355 BBK and a 17” wheel. This setup requires a spacer for the AP9668 kit to clear.

PB runs a 350x34 rotor. Slightly smaller diameter but 2mm thicker for better thermal capacity. So I’m pretty confident the larger 6-piston BBK will fit. Larger pad = longer pad life. Larger rotor=better thermal capacity. Win/Win.
On my Neuspeed RSE16’s the barrel needed al little wiggle room and a spacer would have taken care of the rest.

 

[victorofhavoc]

The powerbrake template is extremely accurate. Your printer (especially if you own a Mac) will likely be the culprit. I had to print from three different places, a Mac, an Android phone, and my desktop and only my desktop printed the template so that the 2" line for checking scale was exactly 2" and not 1 and 15/16". The difference was between fitting my current 17x9 +45 and needing 2mm more clearance. The issue was mainly at the bulge where the spokes meet the rim. Going with a 2mm spacer would have gotten them to clear the wheel, but I don't use spacers on track, and try not to ever.

 

[Judas]

My battery died completely. It did not hold charge from the overnight battery tender I hooked up. The alternator kept things going at a 14 - 14.5v charge rate today. Used my battery booster to get me started and opted to get an OEM battery from my local Dealer this afternoon. 5-yr warranty. I didn’t have time to research any alternative options.

Keep us posted on the lightweight options y’all are going with.

so if my alternator is at 13.2v with ac on and everything else on, is this an issue of concern?or is it supposed to be at 14v

 

[Mini7]

so if my alternator is at 13.2v with ac on and everything else on, is this an issue of concern?or is it supposed to be at 14v

13.2v at idle is within spec
14-15v while driving. This is what I quoted in my post But didn’t clarify.

 

[Mini7]

TPMS ERROR CODES ON TRACK

Has anyone had random TPMS errors on track? And then for a week or two following a DE weekend Before they finally clear up.

Invariably have a couple instances of this happening on track. Come into the pitlane, only for the pit marshal to say that tires look good. I reset and head back out. For some reason this sometimes does not reset.

Does the ESC control fail to safe under these conditions, i.e. ESC re-activates to on/active even when I have switched it completely off. Stability control algorithms operate off the ABS sensors detecting wheel speed differences, along with the yaw & steering angle sensors. Does an “active” TPMS fault code = ESC activated?

My recent battery failure triggered TPMS Errors along with ESC. Understandable but it made me think of the issues I have sometimes experienced on track. Some of this may be due to rotor heat.

Curious as to whether others have experienced the same thing on track. I plan on pulling the sensors and cleaning them after seeing “airgap voltage low” on my OBD11, when clearing all my codes post battery swop.

 

[Judas]

13.2v at idle is within spec
14-15v while driving. This is what I quoted in my post But didn’t clarify.

greatly appreciate it, I got bored and pulled out my multimeter and I was thinking the alternator was bad

 

[donefor]

TPMS error on track is normal IME, since the system is indirect - not measuring pressure but rather differences in rotational rate. If one or more tires is heating up more quickly than the other(s), it can throw the error. Yes it's annoying.

 

[pseudorealityx]

Never had an issue with TPMS on track.

 

[DarkArrow]

My '16R 100% stock everything had a TPMS trigger on track. Combine the fact that it was my first time on track and the track was brutal on brakes (an S2000 brakes caught on fire that day), my zero technical knowledge of a new car thought it was possibly overheating the sensor. The second day, it didn't come back and never lingered after. Did you reset the tire pressure, and it still lingered for a couple weeks?

My '18R has never had any issues with TPMS.

 

[GTIfan99]

Is this the true TPMS in the tires or the one that uses ABS sensors to detect differences in tire speed?

 

[GTIfan99]

Oh, and got the antigravity 20 cell installed

 

[victorofhavoc]

My tpms is finicky. Some days it goes off, others it doesn't. I'm more concerned how frequently it doesn't kick on when I think it should. When I switch wheels it barely knows the difference (and often doesn't). However, if I ever forget to turn off traction control or I'm spinning one wheel/tire enough to cause it to go really far off balance (usually about 2" of slip), it will be guaranteed to go off.

 

[Gvazquez]

Is this the true TPMS in the tires or the one that uses ABS sensors to detect differences in tire speed?

Its an indirect system so it uses wheel speed to detect the difference. No sensor