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2017 GTi PP at VIR

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Heck you beat me to it. Lol
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Track Consumables

Front PowerBrake Rotors 34,400 miles + 10-track days

MPS4S 255-35-18 rear tires have 18,800 miles replaced fronts at 14,200 miles (4,600)

NT01 255-40-17 with 7-track days. Tread is still showing 55-60% life left

Rear Pagid Rotors have 34,400 miles + 10-track days

Rear RS19 Pagids have 56,400 miles + 23-track days (12mm pad left)

Plugs have 33,000 miles - scheduled for replacement

Coil Packs 75,200 miles - scheduled for replacement
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Did you get the rear Pagids or go with something else?

I haven't bought yet. I was going to use up the stock rears at Daytona, but it was canceled. Mid month I'm going to go to a track at a local driving school and wear them out, them I'll decide.
 

Half fast

Ready to race!
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
My bet is you'll definitely need an oil cooler, but good to see more data!

I've got the louvres all done and I got a chance to play with the diff adaptation reset. I used obd11 and the first attempt didn't make any noises. I then depressed the brake and tried a second time and there was an audible "click-thwack" with the window open. I drove the car around and the starting from a stop had less vibration. It was raining out, so it was a good time to test slip. I took the car on a roundabout and intentionally gave it a big jab of the throttle in second gear at 40 mph. This might be placebo, but lockup felt ever so slightly faster and there was less bucking left to right. View attachment 174770

Apologies from dragging this one up from a few months ago but I was curious if you've noticed a marked improvement in temps with the louvres. They look much better on your car than I'd have thought they would which has been one of my main holdups. Also concerned about water getting in.
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Newbie
Location
Kansas City
Apologies from dragging this one up from a few months ago but I was curious if you've noticed a marked improvement in temps with the louvres. They look much better on your car than I'd have thought they would which has been one of my main holdups. Also concerned about water getting in.
Water gets into the engine bay anyway from a number of places, but if you're really concerned you can get the water guards they sell that dump the water a bit forward. I personally keep the hood insulation in when not on track because my oil can't get up to operating temp without it (too much airflow/cooling), and it presses up tightly against the louvres so it keeps some water out as well.

My oil temps dropped about 20 degrees and water has only gone past 220 when on power for a long time like on a straight. That being said, the car does pull timing in the upper rev range still when in 4th gear, but shifting earlier seems to help and I think there's really no way around that with the is20 turbo. Getting water temp under 210 will help since pretty much all tunes leave the stock street "safety" stuff in place. At this point I'm due for a coolant swap and I will be going to water + water wetter. No coolant performs as well as just plain distilled water and water wetter. This setup should reduce temps by 20* average and disperse heat more evenly across the block. I think with getting oil temps down another 30 degrees with a larger core I'll then be sitting in a very safe place on all engine temps...should be able to beat on it for hours at a time. Likely until transmission overheats, lol.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
CSF/AMS IC INSTALL
Combined my IE/AMS CSF Install into a single document for anyone going down this route.
 

Attachments

  • AMS IC_CSF Raditor Install.pdf
    1.5 MB · Views: 38

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Track Spring Rates
So the Auto-X guys have gotten me thinking about spring rates. I opted to go with 450 springs front and rear on my MT21 Ohlins setup with a 034 RSB on soft. 1st session out was barely above freezing and drizzly. Car was loose as a goose which made me second guess my decision to add a larger RSB. Conditions were super slick at VIR that weekend. It was a spinfest of Porsche’s.

In the dry I still had understeer when pushing hard. Power on understeer in the slow hairpin corners and some understeer in the higher speed corners when trying to maintain momentum with higher corner entry speeds.

I would like to get the car to rotate using increased rear spring rate vs stiffer RSB, while maintaining good balance of grip front to rear. Possibly going back to the stock RSB.

Using Karl Tahts spring rate calculator on Drive Tribe it came up with a 12k or 650lb rear spring. Swifts 12k spring is 672lb/in. and appears to be a good match on paper to the 450lb front springs. Here are some different graphs of various spring rate combinations to get the front and rear spring frequencies to sync up in bump and rebound. The 450/672 appears to be the best compromise and considering the rear motion ratio makes sense.

8D192120-C79A-4046-B93F-1084A2225946.png
E09B20F6-247E-4E63-A277-2FB75A12F6FA.png
8A9B65FF-2525-473C-866B-2E4F8D8B6CAB.png
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Battery Suggestions?

It appears that my battery is on the way out. Last Friday I got an EPC light. Low oil pressure. Checked the oil and all was good. Cleared the code. The next morning my battery was completely dead. Put on a battery tender and charged it up. All was good until this evening when I needed to head home from work and she wouldn’t crank.

Hooked up emergency battery booster and got her fired up.

Stock battery or should I look for something else/better? Suggestions?
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Battery Suggestions?

It appears that my battery is on the way out. Last Friday I got an EPC light. Low oil pressure. Checked the oil and all was good. Cleared the code. The next morning my battery was completely dead. Put on a battery tender and charged it up. All was good until this evening when I needed to head home from work and she wouldn’t crank.

Hooked up emergency battery booster and got her fired up.

Stock battery or should I look for something else/better? Suggestions?

I'm getting ready to install AntiGravity lipo battery. I wrapped it in acid mat, with a layer of aluminum battery heat reflecting material.

I"ll post the parts I'm using if you want?
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL

victorofhavoc

Autocross Newbie
Location
Kansas City
I'm using a cheapo Advance Auto battery. Meets the needs, agm, not worried about it randomly dying in winter when the car sits for a month or more...

Have you played with your toe, rear dampening, brake bias, and pressure for rotation? I'm running an even tinier amount of rear toe now and the car feels pretty great. Turn in is crisp and with trail braking I can "shift" the rear end to any amount I choose.
 

bfury5

Drag Racing Champion
Location
CT
I'm getting ready to install AntiGravity lipo battery. I wrapped it in acid mat, with a layer of aluminum battery heat reflecting material.

I"ll post the parts I'm using if you want?
I ran an AntiGravity in my motorcycle, never had any issues with it in that setup.
 

bfury5

Drag Racing Champion
Location
CT
Track Spring Rates
So the Auto-X guys have gotten me thinking about spring rates. I opted to go with 450 springs front and rear on my MT21 Ohlins setup with a 034 RSB on soft. 1st session out was barely above freezing and drizzly. Car was loose as a goose which made me second guess my decision to add a larger RSB. Conditions were super slick at VIR that weekend. It was a spinfest of Porsche’s.

In the dry I still had understeer when pushing hard. Power on understeer in the slow hairpin corners and some understeer in the higher speed corners when trying to maintain momentum with higher corner entry speeds.

I would like to get the car to rotate using increased rear spring rate vs stiffer RSB, while maintaining good balance of grip front to rear. Possibly going back to the stock RSB.

Using Karl Tahts spring rate calculator on Drive Tribe it came up with a 12k or 650lb rear spring. Swifts 12k spring is 672lb/in. and appears to be a good match on paper to the 450lb front springs. Here are some different graphs of various spring rate combinations to get the front and rear spring frequencies to sync up in bump and rebound. The 450/672 appears to be the best compromise and considering the rear motion ratio makes sense.
Hoping this works out for you. I'm stoked to see more people playing with springrates. I jumped out of the box on a stiffer spring than most people were running and I was slightly concerned. It's definitely reassuring to see more folks upping rear springrates to help with rotation (y)(y)
 
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