My bet is you'll definitely need an oil cooler, but good to see more data!
I've got the louvres all done and I got a chance to play with the diff adaptation reset. I used obd11 and the first attempt didn't make any noises. I then depressed the brake and tried a second time and there was an audible "click-thwack" with the window open. I drove the car around and the starting from a stop had less vibration. It was raining out, so it was a good time to test slip. I took the car on a roundabout and intentionally gave it a big jab of the throttle in second gear at 40 mph. This might be placebo, but lockup felt ever so slightly faster and there was less bucking left to right. View attachment 174770
Water gets into the engine bay anyway from a number of places, but if you're really concerned you can get the water guards they sell that dump the water a bit forward. I personally keep the hood insulation in when not on track because my oil can't get up to operating temp without it (too much airflow/cooling), and it presses up tightly against the louvres so it keeps some water out as well.Apologies from dragging this one up from a few months ago but I was curious if you've noticed a marked improvement in temps with the louvres. They look much better on your car than I'd have thought they would which has been one of my main holdups. Also concerned about water getting in.
It appears that my battery is on the way out. Last Friday I got an EPC light. Low oil pressure. Checked the oil and all was good. Cleared the code. The next morning my battery was completely dead. Put on a battery tender and charged it up. All was good until this evening when I needed to head home from work and she wouldn’t crank.
Hooked up emergency battery booster and got her fired up.
Stock battery or should I look for something else/better? Suggestions?
Hoping this works out for you. I'm stoked to see more people playing with springrates. I jumped out of the box on a stiffer spring than most people were running and I was slightly concerned. It's definitely reassuring to see more folks upping rear springrates to help with rotationTrack Spring Rates
So the Auto-X guys have gotten me thinking about spring rates. I opted to go with 450 springs front and rear on my MT21 Ohlins setup with a 034 RSB on soft. 1st session out was barely above freezing and drizzly. Car was loose as a goose which made me second guess my decision to add a larger RSB. Conditions were super slick at VIR that weekend. It was a spinfest of Porsche’s.
In the dry I still had understeer when pushing hard. Power on understeer in the slow hairpin corners and some understeer in the higher speed corners when trying to maintain momentum with higher corner entry speeds.
I would like to get the car to rotate using increased rear spring rate vs stiffer RSB, while maintaining good balance of grip front to rear. Possibly going back to the stock RSB.
Using Karl Tahts spring rate calculator on Drive Tribe it came up with a 12k or 650lb rear spring. Swifts 12k spring is 672lb/in. and appears to be a good match on paper to the 450lb front springs. Here are some different graphs of various spring rate combinations to get the front and rear spring frequencies to sync up in bump and rebound. The 450/672 appears to be the best compromise and considering the rear motion ratio makes sense.