2017 GTi PP at VIR

[theclutch]

** Edit** Added my Mod List:
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2017 Sept
Pagid RSL 29 Front
Pagid RSL 19 Rear https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/2017-gti-pp-at-vir.351754/post-7140546
Castrol SRF Fluid

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2020 Mods – “to do”
Brake Cooling Ducts
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Joe, when you were still running the stock brake calipers, did you take the brake dust shields off front and rear (or just fronts)? I usually do, but it's a pita and I'm wondering if it even makes a difference. I'm already running Castrol SRF like you.

 

[Mini7]

I removed just the front dust shield when I installed the RS3 cooling deflectors.

 

[Mini7]

I'm getting ready to install AntiGravity lipo battery. I wrapped it in acid mat, with a layer of aluminum battery heat reflecting material.

I"ll post the parts I'm using if you want?

Thanks!

 

[Mini7]

I'm using a cheapo Advance Auto battery. Meets the needs, agm, not worried about it randomly dying in winter when the car sits for a month or more...

Have you played with your toe, rear dampening, brake bias, and pressure for rotation? I'm running an even tinier amount of rear toe now and the car feels pretty great. Turn in is crisp and with trail braking I can "shift" the rear end to any amount I choose.

I haven’t had much joy with rebound setting. I know I need to go stiffer at the rear but then the front end bite gets worse. I’m talking initial turn in. Maybe I just need loosen the rear and the front will respond better......?
Im also wondering whether it is down to the tires. MPS4S have soft sidewalls. The NT01’s are not a whole better. My corner speeds are not a whole different between the two. My Buddy in the blue M3 said as much When following me. Maybe NT01’s have fallen behind the latest batch of performance street tires.

Planning on reducing rear toe from .24 to .12 total toe in. Plus stiffening the rear spring rate. Plus adding slightly more aggressive rear pads. I think she will turn.
Just don’t want high speed loose going up the esses..... and through T-10 at VIR or I’m likely to leave some skid marks in my undershorts......Lol

 

[bfury5]

I haven’t had much joy with rebound setting. I know I need to go stiffer at the rear but then the front end bite gets worse. I’m talking initial turn in. Maybe I just need loosen the rear and the front will respond better......?
Im also wondering whether it is down to the tires. MPS4S have soft sidewalls. The NT01’s are not a whole better. My corner speeds are not a whole different between the two. My Buddy in the blue M3 said as much When following me. Maybe NT01’s have fallen behind the latest batch of performance street tires.

Planning on reducing rear toe from .24 to .12 total toe in. Plus stiffening the rear spring rate. Plus adding slightly more aggressive rear pads. I think she will turn.
Just don’t want high speed loose going up the esses..... and through T-10 at VIR or I’m likely to leave some skid marks in my undershorts......Lol

It might be different from track to autox, but I was having trouble with initial turn-in as well and I went 1/16" (~.14) total toe out in the front and it made a huge difference with helping the steering feel less lazy at turn-in. It feels like just enough to preload the steering rack

 

[Mini7]

I think auto-x setups are more aggressive than for track but directionally it is the same.

Been reluctant to go toe out due to tire wear concerns for my daily driving. I don’t like the initial delay from input to feeling the front suspension bite and loading up.

.14 degrees is less than my current rear toe setting so its not huge. Toe settings will wear tires way faster than camber.

 

[bfury5]

I think auto-x setups are more aggressive than for track but directionally it is the same.

Been reluctant to go toe out due to tire wear concerns for my daily driving. I don’t like the initial delay from input to feeling the front suspension bite and loading up.

.14 degrees is less than my current rear toe setting so its not huge. Toe settings will wear tires way faster than camber.

Agreed, I would never run my front toe-out and my rear at 0 toe if I was doing high speed track driving, my car is already a little twitchy at highway speeds. I'm also curious about tire wear at high levels of camber, I was hesitant to go toe-out in the front due to wear so I'll be keeping an eye on it and I'll try and keep folks updated

 

[tpellegr]

Battery Suggestions?

It appears that my battery is on the way out. Last Friday I got an EPC light. Low oil pressure. Checked the oil and all was good. Cleared the code. The next morning my battery was completely dead. Put on a battery tender and charged it up. All was good until this evening when I needed to head home from work and she wouldn’t crank.

Hooked up emergency battery booster and got her fired up.

Stock battery or should I look for something else/better? Suggestions?

I've got my eye on this mount from MeLe. It is built to pair with the Odyssey PC680, XS Power D680, or Braille G20 (which is probably what I will end up using). Let us know what you go with. There are several people running this mount with the 680 batteries and no issues.

MeLe Lightweight MQB Battery Mount

 

[Mini7]

Agreed, I would never run my front toe-out and my rear at 0 toe if I was doing high speed track driving, my car is already a little twitchy at highway speeds. I'm also curious about tire wear at high levels of camber, I was hesitant to go toe-out in the front due to wear so I'll be keeping an eye on it and I'll try and keep folks updated

If I remember correctly you have -3 degrees front camber. That’s most probably at the limit for street use regarding wear. I’ve run -2.75/zero toe without any issues. When the inner 1.5” wears smooth the rest of the tire is down to the wear bars and needs changing anyway.

I’m not against a fraction toe out up front for the track. Just a wear concern for the street. It may amount to nothing. It’s not going to make the rear rotate any faster. It will help you judge your corner entry speed better, so you don’t over charge the entry or go in to slow because of the vague steering at turn-in. If reducing the rear toe forces me to drop the 034 RSB, I’d be happy with that. I have adjustable rear toe links, so it will be easy to change.

The stiffer rear springs should also aid traction at corner exit as it resists the weight transfer rearward from the steering/driving wheels. Most slow-medium corners, I’m trailbraking down to the apex so I have the front end weighted down.

 

[Mini7]

I've got my eye on this mount from MeLe. It is built to pair with the Odyssey PC680, XS Power D680, or Braille G20 (which is probably what I will end up using). Let us know what you go with. There are several people running this mount with the 680 batteries and no issues.

MeLe Lightweight MQB Battery Mount

My battery died completely. It did not hold charge from the overnight battery tender I hooked up. The alternator kept things going at a 14 - 14.5v charge rate today. Used my battery booster to get me started and opted to get an OEM battery from my local Dealer this afternoon. 5-yr warranty. I didn’t have time to research any alternative options.

Keep us posted on the lightweight options y’all are going with.

 

[bfury5]

If I remember correctly you have -3 degrees front camber. That’s most probably at the limit for street use regarding wear. I’ve run -2.75/zero toe without any issues. When the inner 1.5” wears smooth the rest of the tire is down to the wear bars and needs changing anyway.

I’m not against a fraction toe out up front for the track. Just a wear concern for the street. It may amount to nothing. It’s not going to make the rear rotate any faster. It will help you judge your corner entry speed better, so you don’t over charge the entry or go in to slow because of the vague steering at turn-in. If reducing the rear toe forces me to drop the 034 RSB, I’d be happy with that. I have adjustable rear toe links, so it will be easy to change.

The stiffer rear springs should also aid traction at corner exit as it resists the weight transfer rearward from the steering/driving wheels. Most slow-medium corners, I’m trailbraking down to the apex so I have the front end weighted down.

Yeah I'm like 3.1/3.2 right now (and no intention of adding any more, finally), and I drive about 18k a year so I'll be keeping an eye on the inner tire area for sure. My normal tires are cheapo General G-MAX RS, and so far they've been wearing like stones for the last 20k miles. I'm curious to see how they hold up with the camber+toe.

You mention the stiffer rear springs reducing weight transfer and I agree, have you played with rake at all?

 

[Mini7]

Nope.

When I install the 12k/650lb rear springs, I’m curious as to where the rear ride height will come out at. Stiffer spring will result in less static compression.

On my Cooper S, I ended up reducing my rake. From a little more than half to about a 1/4”.

 

[victorofhavoc]

Come meet me at 0.04 toe in rear. You want rotation? You can have rotation .

 

[victorofhavoc]

Hey Joe, you said at one point the apex 17x9 will fit the PB 350 6pot kit, right? Was this only for the gen 3 caliper or the gen2 with external crossover as well?

 

[q74]

I'm running AntiGravity battery myself. Happy with it so far. As for toe, I run zero upfront, and 0.02 in rear.