GoatPowder
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- Location
- Aurora - Wheaton, IL
Anyone have a link to DKM's torque specs? My kit didn't come with any documentation for some reason.
75ftlbs for flywheel and 4ftlbs I believe for the ppAnyone have a link to DKM's torque specs? My kit didn't come with any documentation for some reason.
Add me to the list of issues for the DKM Stage 3. At week 1: Occasionally got stuck in R and did not go into 1 very well. It would not shift from 1 to 2 smoothly. 4k miles later it still occasionally gets stuck in R, but also 1, and 2 now. Smooth shifts are a thing of the past. I've adjusted the linkages, but nothing changed. I've had several clutchmasters, and would not recommend them. They just can't handle APR stage 2 torque. If a new Throw Out Bearing fixes the DKM, great. But having to pull the tranny again at the shop is a pain and expensive. On the plus side, the DKM engages smoothly, grips and holds. I just can't shift it. Not sure how to tell if I already have the LUK TOB, so any help there would be appreciated.
From Competition Clutch:
"Diaphragm load is the force exerted by the fingers of the diaphragm against the release bearing.
Diaphragm load on the oem clutch is most likely around 380lb.
Diaphragm load on the MR kit can be from 700lb-900lb.
Diaphragm load on the MS kit can be between 440-480lbs
The increased pressure required to release the Twin Disc (MR kit) puts a significant amount of load on the crankshaft thrust bearings. Starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed -when the bearings are cold and dry- will cause accelerated wear. To reduce the amount of wear on these bearings, you should consider bypassing the starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal and start the engine with the car in neutral and the clutch released. Use extreme caution when disabling the interlock switch as it is a safety device. Never disable any safety device on a street-legal car.
Sounds like more of a disclaimer.From Competition Clutch:
"Diaphragm load is the force exerted by the fingers of the diaphragm against the release bearing.
Diaphragm load on the oem clutch is most likely around 380lb.
Diaphragm load on the MR kit can be from 700lb-900lb.
Diaphragm load on the MS kit can be between 440-480lbs
The increased pressure required to release the Twin Disc (MR kit) puts a significant amount of load on the crankshaft thrust bearings. Starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed -when the bearings are cold and dry- will cause accelerated wear. To reduce the amount of wear on these bearings, you should consider bypassing the starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal and start the engine with the car in neutral and the clutch released. Use extreme caution when disabling the interlock switch as it is a safety device. Never disable any safety device on a street-legal car.
Yeah that is never going to happen so I guess we are all doomed!!!
It was to show the actual numbers from Competition Clutch and show that the twin disk wasn't putting a ton more strain on the thrust bearing. It's a little over a 20% increase in pressure from stock.Sounds like more of a disclaimer.
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That recommendation is only for the MR kit, which I don't think any of us are running. The MS kit, which is what most of us have, only puts about 15% more axial load than the OEM unit, vs 100% more from the MR unit.
Anyone know what these values are for South Bend stage 3 or BFI? In theory, those single disk units would be higher than the MS kit right? The whole point of the twin disk is higher holding power without overly grabby disks or excessively high PP force right?
TTRS if you want dead silent and DMF for $500 total or DKM twin disk if you want the best SMF clutch upgrade for a bit more than twice the price.
Those seem like the only two options that any MK7 owner should consider.
My clutch arrived this weekend, but the TOB was damaged in transit. Working on getting a replacement.
I measured the heads on the included bolts and they're just about 5mm, so hopefully there won't be any issues during install.
Anyone near northern Alabama able to install this thing for me? I know of a local shop but they're asking over $1k to install it. Found a place near Nashville that will do it for quite a bit less, but it's almost 2 hours each way and they said it may take more than a day to install. This is for a Golf R so I expect the installation to be more labor intensive due to the bevel box, etc.