Dkm stage 3 clutch

[GoatPowder]

Anyone have a link to DKM's torque specs? My kit didn't come with any documentation for some reason.

 

[railroader]

Anyone have a link to DKM's torque specs? My kit didn't come with any documentation for some reason.

75ftlbs for flywheel and 4ftlbs I believe for the pp

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[GoatPowder]

Gracias

 

[dupsatou]

I just thought I'd throw in some info here for anybody else. I recently had one of these clutches installed by a VW Master Tech that is a friend of mine. I'm about 1k miles in so far and have zero complaints. I read through pretty much this entire thread and was a little scared (I read it after the install... yikes!) but so far I've had no issues.

The feel of the clutch has been great as a DD and it really clamps under high acceleration too. Without having read this thread I would have absolutely recommended this clutch. Reading this thread I would probably add a YMMV disclaimer to whomever I talk to.

I know the guy who installed it followed everything right because he even commented that it was a pain to torque everything down right compared to some other jobs he had done in the past. So I know he was careful and thorough. Anyway, just wanted to provide another anecdote/data point. Hope others have good luck as well!

 

[duugalas]

Add me to the list of issues for the DKM Stage 3. At week 1: Occasionally got stuck in R and did not go into 1 very well. It would not shift from 1 to 2 smoothly. 4k miles later it still occasionally gets stuck in R, but also 1, and 2 now. Smooth shifts are a thing of the past. I've adjusted the linkages, but nothing changed. I've had several clutchmasters, and would not recommend them. They just can't handle APR stage 2 torque. If a new Throw Out Bearing fixes the DKM, great. But having to pull the tranny again at the shop is a pain and expensive. On the plus side, the DKM engages smoothly, grips and holds. I just can't shift it. Not sure how to tell if I already have the LUK TOB, so any help there would be appreciated.

 

[Omegarenegade]

Add me to the list of issues for the DKM Stage 3. At week 1: Occasionally got stuck in R and did not go into 1 very well. It would not shift from 1 to 2 smoothly. 4k miles later it still occasionally gets stuck in R, but also 1, and 2 now. Smooth shifts are a thing of the past. I've adjusted the linkages, but nothing changed. I've had several clutchmasters, and would not recommend them. They just can't handle APR stage 2 torque. If a new Throw Out Bearing fixes the DKM, great. But having to pull the tranny again at the shop is a pain and expensive. On the plus side, the DKM engages smoothly, grips and holds. I just can't shift it. Not sure how to tell if I already have the LUK TOB, so any help there would be appreciated.

I have the updated TOB in my clutch kit - am experiencing the exact same issues as of late. have exactly 10 000kms of use on it. was hoping it was linkage related but sounds like it could be more... when it get stuck, it takes a lot of effort to get it out of gear. A LOT! and getting issues with 1st to 2nd shifts.

 

[Square1]

10,000km trouble free. The last 2,000km the chatter has started. I'm not liking it.

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[nonegiven]

From Competition Clutch:

"Diaphragm load is the force exerted by the fingers of the diaphragm against the release bearing.
​
Diaphragm load on the oem clutch is most likely around 380lb.
Diaphragm load on the MR kit can be from 700lb-900lb.
Diaphragm load on the MS kit can be between 440-480lbs

The increased pressure required to release the Twin Disc (MR kit) puts a significant amount of load on the crankshaft thrust bearings. Starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed -when the bearings are cold and dry- will cause accelerated wear. To reduce the amount of wear on these bearings, you should consider bypassing the starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal and start the engine with the car in neutral and the clutch released. Use extreme caution when disabling the interlock switch as it is a safety device. Never disable any safety device on a street-legal car.

 

[JerseyDrew77]

From Competition Clutch:

"Diaphragm load is the force exerted by the fingers of the diaphragm against the release bearing.
​
Diaphragm load on the oem clutch is most likely around 380lb.
Diaphragm load on the MR kit can be from 700lb-900lb.
Diaphragm load on the MS kit can be between 440-480lbs

The increased pressure required to release the Twin Disc (MR kit) puts a significant amount of load on the crankshaft thrust bearings. Starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed -when the bearings are cold and dry- will cause accelerated wear. To reduce the amount of wear on these bearings, you should consider bypassing the starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal and start the engine with the car in neutral and the clutch released. Use extreme caution when disabling the interlock switch as it is a safety device. Never disable any safety device on a street-legal car.

Yeah that is never going to happen so I guess we are all doomed!!!

 

[Square1]

From Competition Clutch:

"Diaphragm load is the force exerted by the fingers of the diaphragm against the release bearing.
​
Diaphragm load on the oem clutch is most likely around 380lb.
Diaphragm load on the MR kit can be from 700lb-900lb.
Diaphragm load on the MS kit can be between 440-480lbs

The increased pressure required to release the Twin Disc (MR kit) puts a significant amount of load on the crankshaft thrust bearings. Starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed -when the bearings are cold and dry- will cause accelerated wear. To reduce the amount of wear on these bearings, you should consider bypassing the starter interlock switch on the clutch pedal and start the engine with the car in neutral and the clutch released. Use extreme caution when disabling the interlock switch as it is a safety device. Never disable any safety device on a street-legal car.

Sounds like more of a disclaimer.

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[oddspyke]

Yeah that is never going to happen so I guess we are all doomed!!!

That recommendation is only for the MR kit, which I don't think any of us are running. The MS kit, which is what most of us have, only puts about 15% more axial load than the OEM unit, vs 100% more from the MR unit.

Anyone know what these values are for South Bend stage 3 or BFI? In theory, those single disk units would be higher than the MS kit right? The whole point of the twin disk is higher holding power without overly grabby disks or excessively high PP force right?

 

[nonegiven]

Sounds like more of a disclaimer.

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It was to show the actual numbers from Competition Clutch and show that the twin disk wasn't putting a ton more strain on the thrust bearing. It's a little over a 20% increase in pressure from stock.

 

[Twist1]

That recommendation is only for the MR kit, which I don't think any of us are running. The MS kit, which is what most of us have, only puts about 15% more axial load than the OEM unit, vs 100% more from the MR unit.

Anyone know what these values are for South Bend stage 3 or BFI? In theory, those single disk units would be higher than the MS kit right? The whole point of the twin disk is higher holding power without overly grabby disks or excessively high PP force right?

The twin disc design isn't playing that big of a role when looking at axial torsion and drivetrain shock as does the Pressure Plate Fork/Spring force. Since the dkm uses two, a very strong PP with another spring loaded disc it can be quite high. Great clutch overall though until my thrust shat out xD

 

[Cool Hand Pete]

TTRS if you want dead silent and DMF for $500 total or DKM twin disk if you want the best SMF clutch upgrade for a bit more than twice the price.

Those seem like the only two options that any MK7 owner should consider.

This is exactly where I am. Local shop endorsed by a few forum members wants $2300 total for TTRS and $2800 for DKM. Both include parts, labor, and billet RMS replacement.

$500 is no small difference for me with a newborn, etc.

I may get a downpipe down the road but I don’t expect to go beyond that.

One guy implied $2300 all-in for the TTRS is highway robbery since parts should be less but I’m not so sure. They won’t let me bring in my outside parts, which I can understand.

Thoughts?


2017 Reflex Silver GTI

 

[Cool Hand Pete]

My clutch arrived this weekend, but the TOB was damaged in transit. Working on getting a replacement.

I measured the heads on the included bolts and they're just about 5mm, so hopefully there won't be any issues during install.

Anyone near northern Alabama able to install this thing for me? I know of a local shop but they're asking over $1k to install it. Found a place near Nashville that will do it for quite a bit less, but it's almost 2 hours each way and they said it may take more than a day to install. This is for a Golf R so I expect the installation to be more labor intensive due to the bevel box, etc.

Who was recommended near Nashville? That’s where I am and I’m looking for a shop to install mine.


2017 Reflex Silver GTI