JB4 Logging, stacking and Map 6 Discussion

[xxbreezewoodxx]

Sure it’s nvr a bad thing to want to know how your car is running .

Any reason the log or buy the JB Connect if I am pretty limit to map1 with CA 91 oct gas? Car only has intake now, may install throttle pipe and discharge pipe later.

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[NeedSleep]

Any reason the log or buy the JB Connect if I am pretty limit to map1 with CA 91 oct gas? Car only has intake now, may install throttle pipe and discharge pipe later.

Idk what device you have, but...

If you have Android, a cheaper solution that I use (besides the laptop method) is the following: JB4 data cable -> JB4 3' extension cable -> USB to micro-USB OTG adapter -> JB4 Mobile app.

Would likely be more stable than the Bluetooth connect. I don't know if the same can be done with iOS, as I don't have one.

As said above, it's never bad to see how your car's running, especially if it gets hot, and your intercooler can't cope.

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[sprinks]

What NeedSleep said. JB4 mobile+OTG plug makes for really quick map switching (say to map 4 for valet purposes now).

 

[Pamwith2ms]

What NeedSleep said. JB4 mobile+OTG plug makes for really quick map switching (say to map 4 for valet purposes now).

I have the BT adapter. Love having the access to watch whats happening and change maps.

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[Spderman472]

hey guys,

i did an error code check today on the JB4, got codes

431a
534a
2000

any ideas?

 

[sprinks]

as i recall, 431a is a generic non-code that just indicate there's a stored code in another module. I could be wrong though and cede to those who are more certain. Other two: I don't know.

 

[George Smooth]

hey guys,

i did an error code check today on the JB4, got codes

431a
534a
2000

any ideas?

431A indeed lets you know there is a fault on another module.
534A is 21322 - Implausible Data Received from ABS Control Module



So the fault is related to the ABS module. The fault can also appear on a low battery or if the car cranked for long on start up.


The 2000 is not a fault.


If you dont have a ABS light on constant its not a concern and could have been a once off.

 

[CFGTI]

Any idea why I can't seem to get above 8 degrees of timing even with no knock? Im on e30ish with just the JB4 and dp.

I also have an overboost issue seems to spike 25 psi even if I have it set to 23 psi.

Any input welcome!

 

[ccbird]

Any idea why I can't seem to get above 8 degrees of timing even with no knock? Im on e30ish with just the JB4 and dp.

I also have an overboost issue seems to spike 25 psi even if I have it set to 23 psi.

Any input welcome!

I am no expert on this, but have spent enough time in this forum to state that if you are not getting to 10 degrees or near it, look at gas and iat. With you being in Florida, my guess is temperature is playing a role. There are times in summer I have zero knock and using the exact same gas blend get no more than 6 or 7 degrees up top due to temperature and at night when it cools off can easily hit 10 on the same settins just 20 degrees abient cooler.

E30 pretty much takes gas to the limit depending on the base gas, are you using top tier 93 with e85?

That said, cooling charge air or reducing boost up top is the best bet to get more timing advance.

Good luck

 

[CFGTI]

I am no expert on this, but have spent enough time in this forum to state that if you are not getting to 10 degrees or near it, look at gas and iat. With you being in Florida, my guess is temperature is playing a role. There are times in summer I have zero knock and using the exact same gas blend get no more than 6 or 7 degrees up top due to temperature and at night when it cools off can easily hit 10 on the same settins just 20 degrees abient cooler.


E30 pretty much takes gas to the limit depending on the base gas, are you using top tier 93 with e85?

That said, cooling charge air or reducing boost up top is the best bet to get more timing advance.

Good luck

Good point as my IAT are always 100-120F. It was even 55F out one night I did a log. There is no to maybe 1.2 knock in a single spot after a shift. Sounds like I need an intercooler! I usually just grab the 93 at the same station selling the e85 which is a Racetrac not top tier. I took 10 gallons back with me so on next fill up I'll use BP, Mobil or some top tier.

Edit: When I took the log at the track I was idling alot. Busy night there. I'll do some logs here soon and post up. Its in the 60s here so not bad.

 

[ChrisMk77]

Good point as my IAT are always 100-120F. It was even 55F out one night I did a log. There is no to maybe 1.2 knock in a single spot after a shift. Sounds like I need an intercooler! I usually just grab the 93 at the same station selling the e85 which is a Racetrac not top tier. I took 10 gallons back with me so on next fill up I'll use BP, Mobil or some top tier.

Edit: When I took the log at the track I was idling alot. Busy night there. I'll do some logs here soon and post up. Its in the 60s here so not bad.

Get an intercooler today since there is great black friday deals going on.

 

[CFGTI]

Get an intercooler today since there is great black friday deals going on.

Oh I did with the 15% off ebay sale.

 

[madracer]

In June this year decided to trade the 7 GTI in for a 7 Clubsport.
After a few months of remaining stock, fitted the following mods,

JB4
VWR600 Intake
Downpipe

Did a before and after run on the Dyno, pump fuel (95 RON / Pump Fuel)
40wkw difference, was pretty happy.
Pic 1

Before I installed the mods, i threw in some Octane, which essentially took the Octane to around 102RON and did a 1/4 mile run.
Pic 2

Then, after mods, set it to Map 2 / 95 RON Fuel, and did a 1/4 mile run on the same road (Please ignore slope, as the road was pretty much the same piece as the pre-mods run)
Pic 3

My question, how is it possible with a better 60 foot time on the post mods run, 40wkw more, my 1/4 mile time is slower?
The temperature difference between the runs was about 8 to 9 degrees celcius, surely that cant be the reason?

 

[madracer]

Also did some logs with the JB,

Map 1 Run 1
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-1?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 1 Run 2
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-1-b?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 2 Run 1
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-2?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 2 Run 2
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-2-b?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 6 Set at 5.5
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-6-55?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 6 Set at 6.0
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-6-60?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 6 Set at 6.0 Version 2
https://datazap.me/u/madracer/map-6-60-b?log=0&data=1-3-4-6-11-14-18

Map 1 seems ok, but from Map 2 onwards, it seems that better fuel will be required to realise proper gains and maybe better cooling?

 

[dood.]

In June this year decided to trade the 7 GTI in for a 7 Clubsport.

After a few months of remaining stock, fitted the following mods,



JB4

VWR600 Intake

Downpipe



Did a before and after run on the Dyno, pump fuel (95 RON / Pump Fuel)

40wkw difference, was pretty happy.

Pic 1



Before I installed the mods, i threw in some Octane, which essentially took the Octane to around 102RON and did a 1/4 mile run.

Pic 2



Then, after mods, set it to Map 2 / 95 RON Fuel, and did a 1/4 mile run on the same road (Please ignore slope, as the road was pretty much the same piece as the pre-mods run)

Pic 3



My question, how is it possible with a better 60 foot time on the post mods run, 40wkw more, my 1/4 mile time is slower?

The temperature difference between the runs was about 8 to 9 degrees celcius, surely that cant be the reason?

There is a big dip in your acceleration in the second dragy screenshot. Is that from wheelspin?


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