Sandman GTI
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Tennessee USA
No.
It is just short by 1/8" to 1/4".
Would be nice but even both sides and being black does not stand out.
7
Sandman GTI MK7 PP DCC Lighting Pkg - The Journey begins!
- Thread starter Sandman GTI
- Start date
No.
It is just short by 1/8" to 1/4".
Would be nice but even both sides and being black does not stand out.
Sandman GTI
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Tennessee USA
Your car's making me anxious for those covers. Can't stop staring.
Careful!
Don't abuse my Baby!
CarniifeX
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Thousand Oaks, CA
Wow, I like em!
Might have to get me a set of these, I think it would look good with the iSweep Front Lip.
Might have to get me a set of these, I think it would look good with the iSweep Front Lip.
Sandman GTI
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Tennessee USA
sh Button Start Cover
I read about some Members asking about push button start covers.
Found this on eBay. Most for Mustang but might lead to something.
https://www.ebay.com/i/162875764189?...&ul_noapp=true
http://youtu.be/e47JN90dwuU
__________________
Sandman
I read about some Members asking about push button start covers.
Found this on eBay. Most for Mustang but might lead to something.
https://www.ebay.com/i/162875764189?...&ul_noapp=true
http://youtu.be/e47JN90dwuU
__________________
Sandman
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sandmangti
Autocross Newbie
Recent weekend work.
Did several projects and will cover each in the following posts.
Front Sway Bar End Links.
Two years ago when I had the front sway bar replaced I went with 034 Motorsports end links. Others had posted about noise after age but I gave them a try. I did have noise starting and when removing I think this was due to driver side bolt through the bearing being a little loose. The 034’s are likely a good track car end link giving a direct connection with little play. Not sure they were worn out but I replaced with ECS Tuning. These are more like a superpro end link. I also liked that they are red. Matched the length to the 034’s and install was easy. So far good. I think these will be better on a daily driver.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Did several projects and will cover each in the following posts.
Front Sway Bar End Links.
Two years ago when I had the front sway bar replaced I went with 034 Motorsports end links. Others had posted about noise after age but I gave them a try. I did have noise starting and when removing I think this was due to driver side bolt through the bearing being a little loose. The 034’s are likely a good track car end link giving a direct connection with little play. Not sure they were worn out but I replaced with ECS Tuning. These are more like a superpro end link. I also liked that they are red. Matched the length to the 034’s and install was easy. So far good. I think these will be better on a daily driver.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sandman GTI
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Tennessee USA
Racingline are best looking in regards to build quality but I think these type of endlinks are better for track and not DD. ECS are also a good price.
sandmangti
Autocross Newbie
Next mod from weekend work.
New front brake disc.
I have PP brakes so thought about options:
Stay OE.
Clubsport?
Aftermarket lower cost or med to high cost.
2 piece weight reduction?
Decided on Girodisc for weight, looks and quality.
Decided to only do the fronts now as they are a small fortune and rears still in ok shape. Maybe rears next year.
Girodisc.
On site you order them by selecting R disc. Same as PP.
through about red but extra $150 and buying separately I would pay twice. Directional vanes, well made and look great. I have not looked at brake disc run out much but was surprised at inspection tag on brakes. Run out (.0004”). This is in the area of engine tolerances. Install and fit was perfect. Getting drive side OE disc off took a while. More rust on driver side. I need a dead blow hammer instead of rubber mallet. Just keep hitting as it only takes one and it is always the last one. Cleaned all rust off and applied thin coat of Moly copper anti seize. Bedded them in but have not driven hard yet as was out of town last weekend. So far in interstate driving equal or better to OE. I will review feel at the end of my weekend work post as with several items installed not sure how each helped but light weight and perfect run out I think Car feels smooth and vibration is less.
First pic is of front OE after washing. Why light rust.
https://youtu.be/Ce3hVP5WW3w
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
New front brake disc.
I have PP brakes so thought about options:
Stay OE.
Clubsport?
Aftermarket lower cost or med to high cost.
2 piece weight reduction?
Decided on Girodisc for weight, looks and quality.
Decided to only do the fronts now as they are a small fortune and rears still in ok shape. Maybe rears next year.
Girodisc.
On site you order them by selecting R disc. Same as PP.
through about red but extra $150 and buying separately I would pay twice. Directional vanes, well made and look great. I have not looked at brake disc run out much but was surprised at inspection tag on brakes. Run out (.0004”). This is in the area of engine tolerances. Install and fit was perfect. Getting drive side OE disc off took a while. More rust on driver side. I need a dead blow hammer instead of rubber mallet. Just keep hitting as it only takes one and it is always the last one. Cleaned all rust off and applied thin coat of Moly copper anti seize. Bedded them in but have not driven hard yet as was out of town last weekend. So far in interstate driving equal or better to OE. I will review feel at the end of my weekend work post as with several items installed not sure how each helped but light weight and perfect run out I think Car feels smooth and vibration is less.
First pic is of front OE after washing. Why light rust.
https://youtu.be/Ce3hVP5WW3w
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
sprinks
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- United States
Very fancy. Looking good.
sandmangti
Autocross Newbie
Chemical Guys “Under Carriage “ Dressing.
I think this is a new product. When ever I change wheels from summer to winter I clean the wheels wells. With the brake change work I was able to clean more while apart. Best is to clean with green magic or other degreaser. I also use some “Diablo Wheel Cleaner to prepare surface. With a detailed brush and micro fixer cloth does a good job. Blow dry and then apply under carriage breeding. A little goes a long way. Wipe in with MF towels. Let dry. Looks good.
Just do not dilute like other chemical guy products. The carriage dressing is more oil based so mixes with water like oil/water. Bad idea. Still can use.
Before
After.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I think this is a new product. When ever I change wheels from summer to winter I clean the wheels wells. With the brake change work I was able to clean more while apart. Best is to clean with green magic or other degreaser. I also use some “Diablo Wheel Cleaner to prepare surface. With a detailed brush and micro fixer cloth does a good job. Blow dry and then apply under carriage breeding. A little goes a long way. Wipe in with MF towels. Let dry. Looks good.
Just do not dilute like other chemical guy products. The carriage dressing is more oil based so mixes with water like oil/water. Bad idea. Still can use.
Before
After.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited:
golfdave
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Scotland (U.K.)
- Car(s)
- Mk7 Golf GT Estate
At least you chose discs with correct directional vanes each side..the Clubsport ones are NOT handed..so one side the vanes are correct the other side the vanes run the wrong way as VW chose to skimp & made one blank ...to do both sides...
sandmangti
Autocross Newbie
Brake pads!
After reviewing a lot of info on the Forum I decided to try the Endless MX-72 pads. Took a while to get as they were back ordered and the wait was for a new shipment from Japan. Was not sure about blue pads but once in place little of it shows. I used the Moly Brass anti-seize for the contact slides. Placed a thin coat on surface the back of the pad would touch. Not sure if needed, as the back is rubber to reduce noise. Fit and install was perfect.
Followed the Endless bedding in process, I have mainly driven them on longer interstate trips over the last two weekends. Dust at first was very low but arrived after a while. I think they generate less dust than OE but not a dust free pad so if this is you goal then keep looking. Performance so far is equal or better. Only noise so far was after rain when marking a quick harder stop at low speeds. A faint noise at last moment of stop. I had same situation with stock. PP brakes can be tight at low speeds. Happy so far for my first disc and pad job. I used Deutsche Auto for reference. Only issue I had was when watching the rear pad install video I sort of tuned out some info after he mentions Euro E-brake so I failed to hear the rear piston uses a different tool to compress. I did not have it for the work day so did not change the rears yet. Not a big issue as rears have more life. I now have the right tool and will also order brake fluid flush kit form ECS and might also do new brake lines if I have pressure tank to purge. So once ready this will be a second work project to finish the brakes.
Pictures are very clean as I also took time to clean all parts. The actual work is not hard but correct tools are important. Worth doing yourself with all the video info and available tools.
http://www.endless-sport.global/us
https://youtu.be/Q5BKPZ6jRho
https://youtu.be/F4RZWL4qYbI
https://youtu.be/Zawfu9xTkag
https://youtu.be/04DZuyzAQDQ
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
After reviewing a lot of info on the Forum I decided to try the Endless MX-72 pads. Took a while to get as they were back ordered and the wait was for a new shipment from Japan. Was not sure about blue pads but once in place little of it shows. I used the Moly Brass anti-seize for the contact slides. Placed a thin coat on surface the back of the pad would touch. Not sure if needed, as the back is rubber to reduce noise. Fit and install was perfect.
Followed the Endless bedding in process, I have mainly driven them on longer interstate trips over the last two weekends. Dust at first was very low but arrived after a while. I think they generate less dust than OE but not a dust free pad so if this is you goal then keep looking. Performance so far is equal or better. Only noise so far was after rain when marking a quick harder stop at low speeds. A faint noise at last moment of stop. I had same situation with stock. PP brakes can be tight at low speeds. Happy so far for my first disc and pad job. I used Deutsche Auto for reference. Only issue I had was when watching the rear pad install video I sort of tuned out some info after he mentions Euro E-brake so I failed to hear the rear piston uses a different tool to compress. I did not have it for the work day so did not change the rears yet. Not a big issue as rears have more life. I now have the right tool and will also order brake fluid flush kit form ECS and might also do new brake lines if I have pressure tank to purge. So once ready this will be a second work project to finish the brakes.
Pictures are very clean as I also took time to clean all parts. The actual work is not hard but correct tools are important. Worth doing yourself with all the video info and available tools.
http://www.endless-sport.global/us
https://youtu.be/Q5BKPZ6jRho
https://youtu.be/F4RZWL4qYbI
https://youtu.be/Zawfu9xTkag
https://youtu.be/04DZuyzAQDQ
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited:
sandmangti
Autocross Newbie
Titanium Lug Bolts.
Getting ready for all this work and install, I ordered a full set of Titanium Bolts to use with my OZ Leggera wheels when summer tires went back on. Titanium bolts sound costly but if you compare to other mods they are not the most expensive. A normal bolt sells for $2.50-$3.00. The Titanium bolts are just over $10 each from USP Motorsports. So for the entire car they had a sale price of around $300. There is also a sale going on today.
I measured my OZ supplied bolts and placed an order.
The machining work and feel is perfect. They thread in so smooth and look great. Forty percent less weight. Rotating weight that is, and the best type to remove. They also look good with my wheels and the concave heads add interest.
Below is a picture of my ECS Tuning black bolts used with Austin wheels and flush spaced kit. The shorter silver bolt is the OZ supplied bolt and last is the Titanium Bolt.
Curious to see how they hold us to use and corrosion.
Did I say they look great?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Getting ready for all this work and install, I ordered a full set of Titanium Bolts to use with my OZ Leggera wheels when summer tires went back on. Titanium bolts sound costly but if you compare to other mods they are not the most expensive. A normal bolt sells for $2.50-$3.00. The Titanium bolts are just over $10 each from USP Motorsports. So for the entire car they had a sale price of around $300. There is also a sale going on today.
I measured my OZ supplied bolts and placed an order.
The machining work and feel is perfect. They thread in so smooth and look great. Forty percent less weight. Rotating weight that is, and the best type to remove. They also look good with my wheels and the concave heads add interest.
Below is a picture of my ECS Tuning black bolts used with Austin wheels and flush spaced kit. The shorter silver bolt is the OZ supplied bolt and last is the Titanium Bolt.
Curious to see how they hold us to use and corrosion.
Did I say they look great?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited: