GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

What did you do to your mk7 today?

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
What if a valley for the pinch weld is cut through them with a table saw?

They just aren't robust enough to support the sharp weight of the pinch weld. I used a dremmel on mine to form the bottom of the puck to the jack stand though, rather than cutting a groove for the pinch weld. If you cut a groove for the pinch weld and the majority of the weight ended up on the flat part of the puck on the inside of the pinch weld I think it would hold up OK with a jack, but IMO there is no way to make them work with standard V shaped jack stands, just not enough material to fill the V and allow for the pinch weld recess.

I still used the pucks for jacking up other cars with flat surface points like the rear diff on my friend's STI or my GF's G37, but our pinch welds seem to hold up fine to properly placed jack stands with nothing on top.
 

imthanick_a

Autocross Champion
Location
Ohio
I still used the pucks for jacking up other cars with flat surface points like the rear diff on my friend's STI or my GF's G37, but our pinch welds seem to hold up fine to properly placed jack stands with nothing on top.

Sorry to hear about your friends STI, hopefully some antibiotics will clear that up in a jiffy ;) :p

In other news, my handbrake was seized up this morning and my car squealed up a storm. I made a post about it and would appreciate if anyone has had a similar experience to comment in that thread
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36510
 

mursepaolo

Ready to race!
Location
Los Angeles
I just do the side jack method with a block of wood on a floor jack about a foot down from the front pinch weld. Lifts the front and back tires on one side and lets me get a jack stand under the front or back pinch weld, remove the jack and move it over to the other side and repeat. I don't recommend using hockey pucks anywhere on the pinch weld. They will just split and take the rubberized coating stuff off the pinch weld as it sinks into the puck.

If I needed to lift the front for oil changes, could I just use the dog bone mount area to lift the front?
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
If I needed to lift the front for oil changes, could I just use the dog bone mount area to lift the front?

I've thought about it but haven't tried it yet. Sort of a pain in the ass to get my non-low-profile floor jack under there. I'd be concerned with breaking the OE dogbone puck if any weight were to be placed on it. I don't know if my floor jack metal cup would surround the puck hole, and even if it did the metal on slick subframe metal wouldn't make me feel good. A 2*4 on the jack cup, spanning the puck hole maybe? But then again that seems slippery.

At the end of the day safety is my first concern and I feel good about using a 2*4 on the pinch weld south of the jack points. It digs nicely into the wood and is definitely not going anywhere. The only concern is the wood splitting but if you go pinch weld against the grain I think it's fine.
 

imthanick_a

Autocross Champion
Location
Ohio
If I needed to lift the front for oil changes, could I just use the dog bone mount area to lift the front?

I did that when I installed my JB1 and 034 insert. Worked well to get it high enough for jack stands and then I took the jack out. Granted it was August and bone-dry. I'm not sure if I would repeat using that location though given some of the things demi9od said
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC

mursepaolo

Ready to race!
Location
Los Angeles

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
I just do the side jack method with a block of wood on a floor jack about a foot down from the front pinch weld. Lifts the front and back tires on one side and lets me get a jack stand under the front or back pinch weld, remove the jack and move it over to the other side and repeat. I don't recommend using hockey pucks anywhere on the pinch weld. They will just split and take the rubberized coating stuff off the pinch weld as it sinks into the puck.



Yep, that's what I do as well



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RRF985

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Atlanta, GA
Drove it around a lot and did some vagcom mods today. Glad to have silenced the soundaktor.
 
Last edited:

elamothe15

Ready to race!
Yep, that's what I do as well



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



What's the purpose of the block of wood? If your jack has a pad on it (looks like yours does) and it's not straight metal, can't you just jack a foot down from the punch weld with just the jack?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
What's the purpose of the block of wood? If your jack has a pad on it (looks like yours does) and it's not straight metal, can't you just jack a foot down from the punch weld with just the jack?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



No, you can't chances are that you'll bent something , you want the block of wood to spread the load and not brake anything . I would not use the jack naked even with the rubber pad anywhere that area, you can however , and I do, use the the jack pad on the pinch weld if I just need to lift the car and nothing else


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Nappy216

Ready to race!
Location
Lowell MA
Quick question, did you happen to find that jack kit for a reasonable price? The one on ECS is over $200 bucks.

No. The kit is expensive. 250 from DAP.

Kit definitely makes swapping winter wheels easier. Can swap them on/off more often...depending the weather ....rather then leave them on the whole winter .

That being said the cost to benefit ratio is debatable.
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
Installed BFI stage 2 transmission insert to OE transmission mount, installed Revo engine mount. Only difficult thing was drilling out the rivets on the OE trans mount with my hand drill. Broke 2 bits before I got the technique down. Haven't driven yet as I was stuck in the garage with a car behind me and tired.

Also lowered the car via the dogbone location. Naked floor jack cup is a perfect fit around the hole and I'm confident it would not slip. It will be difficult visually to line it up for a lift, and I couldn't do it at all the with my normal profile jack if I was lowered. Next time I lift normally via pinch weld, I'll inspect the location for any signs of indents or otherwise.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

elamothe15

Ready to race!
What's the purpose of the block of wood? If your jack has a pad on it (looks like yours does) and it's not straight metal, can't you just jack a foot down from the punch weld with just the jack?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Hmm interesting. Anyways, well I find it best to just jack from the rear pinch weld which will also raise the front. Then you can pop a jack stand on the front punch weld and lower the rear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top