St. 2 at 70k?

[anotero]

Unitronic sure likes to claim that’s the case.

Boost generally doesn’t kill engines stage 2 though. High IAT and or lean mixture do so if you’ve got a sufficient intercooler, good fuel & enough of it to stay off the knock sensors and your golden.

Also, be proactive. If the car runs like shit figure out why rather than letting it blow up. Poor fuel mileage without a good reason like my 8mpg at a track day would be a sign of a bad injector. One massively rich cylinder results in 3 super lean ones and BOOM. Just use common sense and good maintenance practices and you’ll generally make your own good luck.

Apart from manufacturing defects that we as drivers have no control over, your last statement pretty much sums it up, IMHO.

 

[DiscusInferno]

Scolding or nah?

Scolding only comes if a person mods their car to stage 2 or higher (or certain stage 1 tunes), and then complains about not being able to pass emissions testing requirements.

... it's something that should have been researched or asked (if no information is available) prior to dropping the money to do the mods.

Asking a question where information that is not widely available, then you deeming it as useless and calling that poster out on it... that's arrogant on your part.

 

[anotero]

Scolding only comes if a person mods their car to stage 2 or higher (or certain stage 1 tunes), and then complains about not being able to pass emissions testing requirements.

... it's something that should have been researched or asked (if no information is available) prior to dropping the money to do the mods.

Asking a question where information that is not widely available, then you deeming it as useless and calling that poster out on it... that's arrogant on your part.

1. There was no complaining. I am well aware of the implications of flashing the ECU, including passing the smog inspection.

2. I saw no arrogance in Jake's words. I have, however, on more than one occasion seen that from you. I may be seeing things, written words don't speak as well as spoken ones, but I have noticed a pattern in how you interact with others.

3. New cars in CA do not have to be smogged either 6 or 8 years (don't remember exactly, but I think the 6 year term git extended to 8) after the initial inspection. I smogged mine when I moved to CA, and don't have to worry smogging again even if I keep the car for 6+ years.

 

[DiscusInferno]

1. There was no complaining. I am well aware of the implications of flashing the ECU, including passing the smog inspection.

2. I saw no arrogance in Jake's words. I have, however, on more than one occasion seen that from you. I may be seeing things, written words don't speak as well as spoken ones, but I have noticed a pattern in how you interact with others.

3. New cars in CA do not have to be smogged either 6 or 8 years (don't remember exactly, but I think the 6 year term git extended to 8) after the initial inspection. I smogged mine when I moved to CA, and don't have to worry smogging again even if I keep the car for 6+ years.

1. I asked simple question, because many people don't think ahead until they panic when they need to get the emissions test done.

2. That was a reference to another thread where someone asked about capping off the stock FMIC when installing an aftermarket FMIC.

The smugness you perceive is because even though you have not done a wheel bearing change before, you're still arguing on how it is done to people that has experience with changing the wheel bearing/hub assembly. That's where I gave up on that thread.

3. Yes, if you buy a car new for CA, you have a grace period, then smog every 2 years. When you bring a car in from another state, there is no smog grace period. You have to smog it to get it registered, then it's every 2 years thereafter, there is no additional 8 year grace period from the purchase of the car in another state. It's not a one-time deal either (otherwise smog stations would be not a thriving business). So, 2 years after your initial smog, you'll have to smog it for the registration for that year.

 

[Sandman GTI]

Some of us just live in states or areas that do not require testing.
In my mid 50’s and have never had a car tested.
I think Jake’s reply was from the point of for his area not an issue they have to plan for.
I would reply, not an issue also.
The OP in the end knew the situation and was planning for it.

 

[Tjbell]

I am at 78k miles, Uni stage 1 Plus for like 55k of it. I plan on going stage 2 this summer, then IS38 over next winter. by then I will have well over 100k miles on her. I'n not concerned in the least.

As a reference, I had a 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero, at 199k I went stage 2 FBO, sold the car at 250k, guy driving it now has 285k on it, original engine, trans, turbo. Maintenance is key.

 

[anotero]

1. I asked simple question, because many people don't think ahead until they panic when they need to get the emissions test done.

2. That was a reference to another thread where someone asked about capping off the stock FMIC when installing an aftermarket FMIC.

The smugness you perceive is because even though you have not done a wheel bearing change before, you're still arguing on how it is done to people that has experience with changing the wheel bearing/hub assembly. That's where I gave up on that thread.

3. Yes, if you buy a car new for CA, you have a grace period, then smog every 2 years. When you bring a car in from another state, there is no smog grace period. You have to smog it to get it registered, then it's every 2 years thereafter, there is no additional 8 year grace period from the purchase of the car in another state. It's not a one-time deal either (otherwise smog stations would be not a thriving business). So, 2 years after your initial smog, you'll have to smog it for the registration for that year.

I don't give advice unless I've done whatever it is I'm giving advice on. That includes the said wheel bearing change.

Irrespective of whether the car was purchased in CA or brought in, the grace period applies. This is reflected in both my conversation with the DMV and in my registration renewal notice for this year.

 

[anotero]

Some of us just live in states or areas that do not require testing.
In my mid 50’s and have never had a car tested.
I think Jake’s reply was from the point of for his area not an issue they have to plan for.
I would reply, not an issue also.
The OP in the end knew the situation and was planning for it.

This.

 

[anotero]

I am at 78k miles, Uni stage 1 Plus for like 55k of it. I plan on going stage 2 this summer, then IS38 over next winter. by then I will have well over 100k miles on her. I'n not concerned in the least.

As a reference, I had a 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero, at 199k I went stage 2 FBO, sold the car at 250k, guy driving it now has 285k on it, original engine, trans, turbo. Maintenance is key.

That Saab of yours is impressive. I wonder, though, if that's the general rule or an exception, and whether that applies to the mk7.

 

[Tjbell]

That Saab of yours is impressive. I wonder, though, if that's the general rule or an exception, and whether that applies to the mk7.

I would say more of an exception, as the Saab 2.3T with the TD-04 was extremely over built and could put down 450 ish WHP reliably completely stock.

I would assume, the 2.0T EA888 could hit 250k with a stage 2 tune fairly easily if used properly, with proper maintenance, and warm ups / correct oil.

For what its worth I only used Mobil1 0W40 Euro formula, every 5k miles, with top tier 93 fuel.


I know some vehicles reach their limit with just a basic tune fairly easily.

I plan on keeping my 2015 until 300k miles, so we shall see where I'm at in a few years

 

[anotero]

I would say more of an exception, as the Saab 2.3T with the TD-04 was extremely over built and could put down 450 ish WHP reliably completely stock.



I would assume, the 2.0T EA888 could hit 250k with a stage 2 tune fairly easily if used properly, with proper maintenance, and warm ups / correct oil.



For what its worth I only used Mobil1 0W40 Euro formula, every 5k miles, with top tier 93 fuel.





I know some vehicles reach their limit with just a basic tune fairly easily.



I plan on keeping my 2015 until 300k miles, so we shall see where I'm at in a few years

I'll be keeping mine for 200-250k, will see. I do all the basic maintenance, and wait for oil to get up to temp, shortened oil change intervals, etc.

 

[jimlloyd40]

I'll be keeping mine for 200-250k, will see. I do all the basic maintenance, and wait for oil to get up to temp, shortened oil change intervals, etc.

I'll be keeping my 18 SE for well over 200K and that's dyno tuned on an IS38 with all bolt ons. Changed the oil at 1000 and then 4000 and then every 4000 and when I hit 100,000 I'll start changing the oil every 3000. I'm at 50,000 in the first 10 months.

 

[PLF8593]

I'll be keeping my 18 SE for well over 200K and that's dyno tuned on an IS38 with all bolt ons. Changed the oil at 1000 and then 4000 and then every 4000 and when I hit 100,000 I'll start changing the oil every 3000. I'm at 50,000 in the first 10 months.

Woah. 50K miles in 10 months?! Wholly. Sheet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cb1111]

1. I asked simple question, because many people don't think ahead until they panic when they need to get the emissions test done.

2. That was a reference to another thread where someone asked about capping off the stock FMIC when installing an aftermarket FMIC.

The smugness you perceive is because even though you have not done a wheel bearing change before, you're still arguing on how it is done to people that has experience with changing the wheel bearing/hub assembly. That's where I gave up on that thread.

3. Yes, if you buy a car new for CA, you have a grace period, then smog every 2 years. When you bring a car in from another state, there is no smog grace period. You have to smog it to get it registered, then it's every 2 years thereafter, there is no additional 8 year grace period from the purchase of the car in another state. It's not a one-time deal either (otherwise smog stations would be not a thriving business). So, 2 years after your initial smog, you'll have to smog it for the registration for that year.

I'm not in California but I've read the regulations. You may want to read the regs as well before you make a blanket statement.

 

[anotero]

I'll be keeping my 18 SE for well over 200K and that's dyno tuned on an IS38 with all bolt ons. Changed the oil at 1000 and then 4000 and then every 4000 and when I hit 100,000 I'll start changing the oil every 3000. I'm at 50,000 in the first 10 months.

I feel better now. I put on 42k in the first year and 24k in the second.