I always appreciate your write-ups! If you were going to do it all again, what mods would you start with?
That’s a bad ass question my friend.
1) APR torque mount insert (why people still mess with the made-of-glass 034 version is beyond me)
2) EQT tune + K&N drop and filter + air box mods
3) Some kind of brake pad upgrade to reduce brake dust and retain bite. Pair with a coated, high carbon front rotor for the best longevity and consistency under hard use.
I have an entire thread on brake pads that is super helpful:
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...s-that-dont-clunk-squeal-or-aggravate.410126/
And also this: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...rake-pads-for-spirited-street-driving.418597/
3.5) Lightweight wheels and tires - wider and with more sidewall than the garbage 225/40 rubber bands
It makes a big deal in comfort and ride quality. I am not a fan of all seasons, but I also don't live in the unyielding north.
There are some truly awesome max summer/UHP tire choices for these cars, even in stock wheel fitment. Continental ECS, Michelin PS4S, Yokohama V601, Kumho Ectsa PS91, Hankook RS4.
Start here, and filter down on the left to Max Summer, UHP, Summer, etc:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=235/&ratio=40&diameter=18
4) Front LCAs or LCA bushings. The stock voided type LCA bushings are trash. Mine were problematic in the straights, hooking from a dig, roll, setting up for corners, etc. Upgrading them to Whitelines w/poly was transformative.
Folks with the aluminum versions have had mixed results.
@tigeo and others have reported a significant increase in NVH from the Al LCAs. Others have had issues with the SuperPro models due to the Duraball rear bushing construction. Clunking, popping, etc. Unacceptable for a $400-500 upgrade.
I stayed simple and budget-friendly with the stock, stamped steel version from Whiteline that included their poly bushings installed. $175 retail. Mine were even less for shop costs. And I couldn't be happier. On my specific car, I haven't noticed any change in NVH. Car just feels more solid, controlled and composed. Straight line traction became incredible compared to before.
More details on the sways and LCAs here:
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...d-links-brakes-and-love-review-inside.415078/
4.5) Sway bars (front & rear). 25-26mm rear, and 28-29mm front is a pretty sweet combo. Stock is 24mm & 21.7mm on these cars (F/R)
Try for adjustable SBs if possible. 2 positions is all you need.
Replace the stock endlinks with Moog HDs. You don't need adjustable links.
These fixed ALL of the unsettling body roll inherent to the factory GTI setups. From reading, the Mk6s were no better in this regard.
Pro Tip -
do the FSB at the same time as the front LCAs, because the cradle will be dropped, and it's a huge time saver. Ask me how I know...
5) DAMPERS. Anything other than stock. Koni SAs, Koni Sports, Bilstein B6/B8s. Stock valving on the Sachs dampers is pure trash. For any driver. Calm or spirited. Lots of compression and almost NO rebound.
I have been SOOOOOO happy with the B8 street manners and behavior. Even with the occasional "bottom out" on something that shouldn't be there. 90-95% of the time they are spectacular.
If I was staying at stock height for personal/ride quality/bad road reasons, I would still install the B6 damper version that is 1" taller than the B8s. Same valving. Better usable travel. It's truly German quality. Supple, but firm and controlled in all conditions.
6) If you realllly push the envelope and track the car, drive it hard with car clubs, in canyons, you can skip step 5 and invest in some quality (~$1500-1700) coilovers, or uprated springs with dampers.
Spring rate is a big deal on these cars. Most lowering springs don't offer anywhere near enough of it. Hence the need for coilovers for the more serious folks.
If you wanna dabble in lowering springs, with stock or aftermarket dampers, the H&R OE Sport and Eibach Golf R linear Pro Kit are the only two I would ever consider. 20-25mm drop with excellent motion control.
No VWR. No EMD. There's a reason those are constantly for sale in the suspension classifieds. Bandwagon enthusiasm with zero research/testing by the consumers. The spring rates and ride height simply are not there.
That's about it. 
You can always add more power, but I was looking for balance and refinement. To fix the MQB's weak points in the FWD configuration, and enhance its strengths. The above recipe is how it gets done.
Each and all of these upgrades make the most profound difference in daily driving, even in traffic, on the Mk7 chassis. And they make the car capable for track use.
And if you notice, this is actually the sequence I followed.
(sexy damper porn below...check out that piston GIRTH!)
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) is a very close friend and accomplice who has pulled more all nighters with me than a nurse at Mount Sinai, in order to get Stormy into her current competition form. 
