Oil pan replacement on the Golf R using four jack stands

[ilikevenice]

I do have the ramps... I'll try that route first.

@murph3699 You found a very honest mechanic... I spoke with 4 so far and they all want $280, labor only, to replace the pan...

 

[turbo_dreams]

Is it possible to replace the pan without draining the oil? You might be able to save some money by doing that.

 

[jimlloyd40]

Is it possible to replace the pan without draining the oil? You might be able to save some money by doing that.

That would be a mess. Nobody is going to charge you to take the drain plug out and drain the oil. They would have to dispose of the oil anyway.

 

[turbo_dreams]

That would be a mess. Nobody is going to charge you to take the drain plug out and drain the oil. They would have to dispose of the oil anyway.

I guess you didn't read that as a joke like I intended.

 

[jimlloyd40]

I guess you didn't read that as a joke like I intended.

They don't call me Literal Jim for nothing.

 

[ilikevenice]

Too funny!

 

[Al_in_Philly]

Your car is nearly 7 years old. It's possible that the oil pan gasket has by now partially adhered to both the block and the pan itself. If this has occurred, it is CRITICAL that every remnant of the old gasket is removed from the surface of your block, without scarring the block surface. Even it the rubber gasket comes off clean, you'll still wind up with residual oil collecting on the block surface--this should be wiped clean just before you reattach the new oil pan.

Also, don't just replace the main gasket between the block and pan; since you'll be reusing the oil level sensor, get a fresh O-ring for it (PN 038-103-196-B) as your old one has assuredly distorted by now. And don't forget that you'll need sealant for the oil pan, in addition to the gasket itself. I'm sure you could use Permatex to do the job, but VW sells a tube of its own sealant just for this specific purpose (PN D-174-003-M2 for about $25 from VW Parts Vortex); I'd recommend that you go with the VW stuff, just to be on the safe side. And last, make sure you use a reasonably calibrated torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the proper sequence.

This is an easy job to do on a lift, but a PITA to do on your back with the car on jack stands.

My apologies if all of this was a bit pedantic. I didn't know your skill level.

 

[radiohead1075]

My wife recently damaged the oil pan in her Audi and the dealership charged $1,700.

 

[dtfd]

Since you'll already be down there now would be a great time to switch over to a steel or aluminum oil pan. Our stock plastic ones are just that, plastic.

Usp will sell you one for ~$70

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/06J103600AFKT-8653.html

Edit: I'd order a gasket as well since I don't trust just sealant to do the job.

 

[ilikevenice]

dtfd, unfortunately I've already ordered and received (though not installed yet) a plastic pan with gasket.​

Al_in_Philly, I appreciate your super informative post, indeed I wasn't even aware I needed to use sealant for the oil pan, since I thought the gasket was sufficient.​

I do have the new oil level sensor ring and a suitable torque wrench.
I don't think I'll be able to get the OEM sealant, but I'll try to get the Permatex.
My skill level is very low, hence don't be afraid to throw in any additional info/suggestion.​

​

And, yes... I'm sure it's going to be a pain crawling and working under the car, but I don't have many other options, except for paying a mechanic $300+ in labor...
​

 

[ilikevenice]

A couple more questions for the experts:
How much sealant should I apply on top of the gasket?
Does the oil pan baffle need to be replaced too? (That’s what the repair manual says…)
Thank you!

 

[odessa.filez]

I'm getting ready to do this shop manual says gasket no sealant for plastic pan, sealant but no gasket for metal.

 

[ilikevenice]

I'm getting ready to do this shop manual says gasket no sealant for plastic pan, sealant but no gasket for metal.

So, no sealant on the gasket?
What about the baffle?

 

[odessa.filez]

So, no sealant on the gasket?
What about the baffle?

I bought the baffle to be safe. both fcp euro and the manual said to do it, fcp euro probably quoting the manual to sell parts.
from my manual
'There are plastic ribs on the oil baffle that deform permanently
when tightening the oil pan lower section. The plastic ribs ensure
the oil baffle has no play and does not rattle. Because of this,
always replace the oil baffle.'

to be clear, I have a golf and you have a golf r. my manual is from VW in 2016. @Al_in_Philly do you have a plastic pan? or metal?

anyway, in my manual sealant is not listed as part of the reinstall for the plastic pan but it is used for the metal pan and no mention of a rubber gasket. This is also consistent with the kits available to me through fcp euro.

if others have had bad experiences with the plastic pan, the gasket, but no sealant, I'd be interested in knowing as well.

 

[ilikevenice]

@odessa.filez we’re on the same boat, except that I did not buy the baffle… hopefully it won’t be an issue…
No one of the mechanics I originally had asked quotes from ever mentioned the baffle… very interesting.

At this point, I’m confused on whether sealant should be applied to the gasket that comes with the plastic pan…