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Metal oil pan

ZERO815

Autocross Champion
Location
Köln Germany
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE DSG
W/ the MK8 GTI VW went back to the steel pan. Does anybody know if it fits the MK7/7.5 too? Part #06K103600AF at 7:25
 

hans611

Lost
Location
Miami
Car(s)
'16 Golf R 6MT
20 mins to get up to 120F, which is still quite thick for a 5w40. I need to change out to some 5w30 til spring.

The iABED does have that 0.3L higher capacity, so that would play into it, as its more mass to heat, but compared to the ~5.5L inside, its only a 5% increase in oil quantity, that bad warm up has to be mostly due to the aluminum radiating the heat....

it'd be even worse if the pan were fully exposed with the stock belly tray.

So you have an aluminum skid plate? Being so close to the oil pan, possibly touching it.... It may be working as a heat sink, further slowing the warm up...

What oil are you using now? Have you ever considered the Castrol Edge "European Formula" 0W-40? I used it when I lived in the Northeast, on my old MKV GTI and on my R for like 30k mi, worked well and is so easy to get cheap in walmart, amazon, etc.... Now a days, my mechanic sells me LIQUI-MOLY, but back then I would take it to the dealer and hand them that Euro 0W 40 blend....

To my surprise, they seem to have released a 0W-30 version, which will probably work even better as a winter oil for guys like you in cold climates? I would have probably tried this blend if I was still in the Northeast...

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge-euro-car.html#tab_0w-30 a3/b4

Seems to have the same standards as the 0W-40 version but the graphics on the bottle are a bit different.... They shaded the box where the weights are listed pink, probably just to differentiate?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-...ed-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/947430152
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
The iABED does have that 0.3L higher capacity, so that would play into it, as its more mass to heat, but compared to the ~5.5L inside, its only a 5% increase in oil quantity, that bad warm up has to be mostly due to the aluminum radiating the heat....



So you have an aluminum skid plate? Being so close to the oil pan, possibly touching it.... It may be working as a heat sink, further slowing the warm up...

What oil are you using now? Have you ever considered the Castrol Edge "European Formula" 0W-40? I used it when I lived in the Northeast, on my old MKV GTI and on my R for like 30k mi, worked well and is so easy to get cheap in walmart, amazon, etc.... Now a days, my mechanic sells me LIQUI-MOLY, but back then I would take it to the dealer and hand them that Euro 0W 40 blend....

To my surprise, they seem to have released a 0W-30 version, which will probably work even better as a winter oil for guys like you in cold climates? I would have probably tried this blend if I was still in the Northeast...

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge-euro-car.html#tab_0w-30 a3/b4

Seems to have the same standards as the 0W-40 version but the graphics on the bottle are a bit different.... They shaded the box where the weights are listed pink, probably just to differentiate?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-...ed-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/947430152
The iABED pan is more like an extra 3L, it was almost 9qts to fill up the pan and the oil cooler.

No, I think metal skidplates are mostly an excuse to give ECS money to make the front of your car heavier. I've used the A3/GLI parts that go back to the subframe and a) cover the pan b) keep the bay much cleaner and c) duct air to the transmission. Lighter and cheaper as well.

I have Mobil 1 Euro 5w40 in the car right now, and will keep buying it in bulk for the summer. IMO it's the best oil you can get at walmart, goes on sale for $6/qt. Very high HTST and TBN, comparable with AMSOIL or Motul's VW-approved oils, i.e. should be great for high temps and ethanol usage. The dealer used to sell Castrol in the VW-branded bottles, now they sell re-badged M1 as of 2020.

I figure I'll grab whatever 0w30 or 5w30 Walmart's got stocked when I change it out later this week, not worth overthinking oil that'll only be used for maybe a thousand miles til it's changed in April.
 

hans611

Lost
Location
Miami
Car(s)
'16 Golf R 6MT
Gotcha, you got all the OEM plastic trim, yeah I saw those, covers all the way past the subframe, for sure that's helping warm up the oil faster....

The dealer used to sell Castrol in the VW-branded bottles, now they sell re-badged M1 as of 2020.

Yeah, bc of that and Castrol being OE at Wolfsburg (I think they still are? The Mobil thing is just VWoA? ) I would get that "European Formula" that was really popular back then... The dealer would use a US spec 5W30 Castrol Edge, and the Euro Formula was supposedly better....
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Yeah, bc of that and Castrol being OE at Wolfsburg (I think they still are? The Mobil thing is just VWoA? ) I would get that "European Formula" that was really popular back then... The dealer would use a US spec 5W30 Castrol Edge, and the Euro Formula was supposedly better....
I wouldn't stress about it, it all has approvals. The US/EU additives used to vary more before USA got ultra-low sulphur gas, but now that we also have it, we also get the low SAPS spec. On a car with MPI and "cats" this doesn't matter as much and so I'd rather stick to a high saps "US spec" oil regardless.
 

Branch846

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
S254HD
Both my daughter and I have the USP steel pans. The fit is good, no complaints there. The trick is getting just the right amount of sealant on the pan. Too little and you'll develop a leak; too much and you risk FOD in your oil sump. My daughter's 70,000-mile replacement engine came with a BONE DRY stock oil pan. My mechanic wasn't going to touch it, only to replace it with a steel pan that might leak.  I recently inspected my pan. I've been using a Tiguan oil pan gasket for about three years. Some of the bolt holes are leaking, though not terribly. I MAY have discovered a rear main seal leak, too. I need to clean and reinspect.































Anyway, I tend to think that the stock pans seal the best, but could use some protection. I have ECS's skid plate (bought AFTER the steel pan). I'm considering going back to the stock pan since I have a skid plate. Just food for thought.Ah









Ah ok fair enough I read a lot about steel pans leaking and I often wonder if they are using the correct sealant.



Ah ok fair enough I read a lot about leaking steel pans but I often wonder if they using the correct sealant and tightening correctly.



I've ordered it and it's come today looks OK loads cheaper then the plastic one as well so I will fit it Friday and see how it goes.

Hopefully it'll hold up ok.



Sorry to hear about the main seal hopefully it isn't as it's quite a big job 😬 but they are prone to leaking unfortunately.
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Just remember the plastic pan and the steel pans have different torque specs and patterns due to one having a seal and the other using RTV in the manual. Most leak issues are because people reinstall the steel pan with Plastic specs and torque pattern. Plastic has you work in a circle, Metal requires alternating torque pattern. Plastic requires a 90 degree turn to finish, metal is a 45.
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Branch846

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
S254HD
Just remember the plastic pan and the steel pans have different torque specs and patterns due to one having a seal and the other using RTV in the manual. Most leak issues are because people reinstall the steel pan with Plastic specs and torque pattern. Plastic has you work in a circle, Metal requires alternating torque pattern. Plastic requires a 90 degree turn to finish, metal is a 45.
Nice one cheers 👍🏻 ill see if I can get a tourqe wrench to go down to 8nm.

 

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
20 mins to get up to 120F, which is still quite thick for a 5w40. I need to change out to some 5w30 til spring.

I’ve been running an iabed pan for several years. I can attest in the winter it takes forever to reach temp and may never actually reach temp. Other night I was cruising down interstate in 27F at 70mph in 6th gear, oil temp would not go over 145 even after 30+ minutes.

That said, not too alarming. The sensor sits in a pool of oil close to airflow. The friction surfaces are surely at operating temp and a quick romp will quickly elevate the temp at the sensor.
 
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