ZERO815
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Köln Germany
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
W/ the MK8 GTI VW went back to the steel pan. Does anybody know if it fits the MK7/7.5 too? Part #06K103600AF at 7:25
not a direct bolt-on, they changed how the oil pan sensor mounts. it does have nicer baffling however.W/ the MK8 GTI VW went back to the steel pan. Does anybody know if it fits the MK7/7.5 too? Part #06K103600AF at 7:25
20 mins to get up to 120F, which is still quite thick for a 5w40. I need to change out to some 5w30 til spring.
it'd be even worse if the pan were fully exposed with the stock belly tray.
The iABED pan is more like an extra 3L, it was almost 9qts to fill up the pan and the oil cooler.The iABED does have that 0.3L higher capacity, so that would play into it, as its more mass to heat, but compared to the ~5.5L inside, its only a 5% increase in oil quantity, that bad warm up has to be mostly due to the aluminum radiating the heat....
So you have an aluminum skid plate? Being so close to the oil pan, possibly touching it.... It may be working as a heat sink, further slowing the warm up...
What oil are you using now? Have you ever considered the Castrol Edge "European Formula" 0W-40? I used it when I lived in the Northeast, on my old MKV GTI and on my R for like 30k mi, worked well and is so easy to get cheap in walmart, amazon, etc.... Now a days, my mechanic sells me LIQUI-MOLY, but back then I would take it to the dealer and hand them that Euro 0W 40 blend....
To my surprise, they seem to have released a 0W-30 version, which will probably work even better as a winter oil for guys like you in cold climates? I would have probably tried this blend if I was still in the Northeast...
https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge-euro-car.html#tab_0w-30 a3/b4
Seems to have the same standards as the 0W-40 version but the graphics on the bottle are a bit different.... They shaded the box where the weights are listed pink, probably just to differentiate?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-...ed-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/947430152
The dealer used to sell Castrol in the VW-branded bottles, now they sell re-badged M1 as of 2020.
I wouldn't stress about it, it all has approvals. The US/EU additives used to vary more before USA got ultra-low sulphur gas, but now that we also have it, we also get the low SAPS spec. On a car with MPI and "cats" this doesn't matter as much and so I'd rather stick to a high saps "US spec" oil regardless.Yeah, bc of that and Castrol being OE at Wolfsburg (I think they still are? The Mobil thing is just VWoA? ) I would get that "European Formula" that was really popular back then... The dealer would use a US spec 5W30 Castrol Edge, and the Euro Formula was supposedly better....
Both my daughter and I have the USP steel pans. The fit is good, no complaints there. The trick is getting just the right amount of sealant on the pan. Too little and you'll develop a leak; too much and you risk FOD in your oil sump. My daughter's 70,000-mile replacement engine came with a BONE DRY stock oil pan. My mechanic wasn't going to touch it, only to replace it with a steel pan that might leak.  I recently inspected my pan. I've been using a Tiguan oil pan gasket for about three years. Some of the bolt holes are leaking, though not terribly. I MAY have discovered a rear main seal leak, too. I need to clean and reinspect.
Anyway, I tend to think that the stock pans seal the best, but could use some protection. I have ECS's skid plate (bought AFTER the steel pan). I'm considering going back to the stock pan since I have a skid plate. Just food for thought.Ah
Ah ok fair enough I read a lot about steel pans leaking and I often wonder if they are using the correct sealant.
Ah ok fair enough I read a lot about leaking steel pans but I often wonder if they using the correct sealant and tightening correctly.
I've ordered it and it's come today looks OK loads cheaper then the plastic one as well so I will fit it Friday and see how it goes.
Hopefully it'll hold up ok.
Sorry to hear about the main seal hopefully it isn't as it's quite a big job but they are prone to leaking unfortunately.
Nice one cheers ill see if I can get a tourqe wrench to go down to 8nm.Just remember the plastic pan and the steel pans have different torque specs and patterns due to one having a seal and the other using RTV in the manual. Most leak issues are because people reinstall the steel pan with Plastic specs and torque pattern. Plastic has you work in a circle, Metal requires alternating torque pattern. Plastic requires a 90 degree turn to finish, metal is a 45.
I picked up a Bicycle torque wrench just for the small stuff like that.Nice one cheers ill see if I can get a tourqe wrench to go down to 8nm.
I picked up a Bicycle torque wrench just for the small stuff like that. 
Nota bad idea
20 mins to get up to 120F, which is still quite thick for a 5w40. I need to change out to some 5w30 til spring.