Faster car- help

[Moschris]

Hello all,

I haven't been on this site in what feels like centuries and I recently just decided to give my beautiful car some love again.

So, I want to go faster but I want to know the cheapest way to do it.

perhaps a tune? what's the best tune out right now. I used to have the neuspeed power module and that was alright.

Im open to anything really, I just want to go faster.

Heres my outdated build http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8800

Any help would be nice.

Thank you

 

[TwinDad]

The best bang for the buck would be a JB4. It allows you to customize your settings, datalog, it's cheaper than any tune, it's not detectable for warranty. Think of it as a very, very advanced Neuspeed. I had the JB1 at first which was similar power gains to the NPM and this one definitely adds more power. You can also run the JB4 app to be able to change maps on the fly and run active gauges. It also lets you data log right there. I had to play around with map 6 settings, but based off some different timed acceleration runs, it's probably right there with a stage 1. The next best option is the Cobb access port. It comes with canned tunes, but it can be custom tuned. Not sure if it's going to give more power than the JB4 or other tuners, but it allows you to switch tunes yourself and comes with a nifty little handheld device that works similarly to the JB4 app. Then there are the traditional tunes. Yes they show some impressive numbers in the torque department, but now that guys are logging with stacked JB4's, you can see that they are early on, where you won't be able to use it in first gear, and then never see that rpm again in the other gears outside of a dyno. All of their timing issues have been exposed as well. I have the JB4, so I'm probably a little biased. Lol

 

[bpw]

Can't argue burger tuning makes a great product customer support is fantastic. However if you weren't happy with the NPM you may just wanna sack up and go apr... I will add that if you're wanting to go past stage 1 take a good look at eurodyne. Impressive numbers home uploading the kicker would be unlimited flashes stage 1 or 2 or 3 etc etc. I went apr but mainly because my dealer would remain mod friendly sort of if I went this way... lots of choices. Im very happy with apr at this point.

 

[TwinDad]

Can't argue burger tuning makes a great product customer support is fantastic. However if you weren't happy with the NPM you may just wanna sack up and go apr... I will add that if you're wanting to go past stage 1 take a good look at eurodyne. Impressive numbers home uploading the kicker would be unlimited flashes stage 1 or 2 or 3 etc etc. I went apr but mainly because my dealer would remain mod friendly sort of if I went this way... lots of choices. Im very happy with apr at this point.

The JB4 is way more advanced than what the JB1 or NPM are. You can go all the way to a large turbo upgrade on it. Even to an IS38 if you really wanted to. I'll gladly throw my GSW up against a stage 1 car any day to see how it hangs. On top of that, none of the additional stages cost you any more money than the initial purchase. Just your supporting mods. And so far, no other tuner has tunes for so many different variables. Eurodyne is the only one making an IS20 tune. So far two JB4 cars have been dynoed and several others have been done. They are matching and surpassing the ED numbers

 

[Jovian]

There is no best tune, all depends on where you plan on going. There are kinda three types. A flash by shop, a flash by device and a piggyback. APR would be a flash by shop, its solid, powerful and reliable but a shop has to do it.

Next is a flash by device, this be like Cobb. It's a hand held device that you flash to the car yourself and revert to stock yourself. How you get the tunes differ for each manufacture and how you customize them.

Last but not least is piggyback which is a module like JB1 that you hook up between your ECU and other components. Easy to revert and not as easily as detected by dealers if removed. Typically not as powerful as flash tunes.

 

[MeltedSolid]

Or you could go like I'm going to be soon and stack a JB4 on top of a flash tune in order to run an IS20 turbo!

Generally speaking I agree with what TwinDad has said. I don't have my JB4 yet (next Tuesday!), but based on all of the info of what people have done on these forums I think it's definitely your best bet.

The only downsides of going with the JB4 is the car retains all of the stock ECU functions (I.E. no left foot braking, speed limiter at 200kph, etc...), and that is why I am choosing to keep my flash tune and put the JB4 on top of it. Otherwise the JB4 alone makes at least as much power, has far more customizability, is cheaper, can't be detected for warranty purposes, and has the best customer service of all the options.

I know Jovian said there is no best tune, but with the introduction of the JB4 last month, that's kind of not true any more.

 

[TwinDad]

Or you could go like I'm going to be soon and stack a JB4 on top of a flash tune in order to run an IS20 turbo!

Generally speaking I agree with what TwinDad has said. I don't have my JB4 yet (next Tuesday!), but based on all of the info of what people have done on these forums I think it's definitely your best bet.

The only downsides of going with the JB4 is the car retains all of the stock ECU functions (I.E. no left foot braking, speed limiter at 200kph, etc...), and that is why I am choosing to keep my flash tune and put the JB4 on top of it. Otherwise the JB4 alone makes at least as much power, has far more customizability, is cheaper, can't be detected for warranty purposes, and has the best customer service of all the options.

I know Jovian said there is no best tune, but with the introduction of the JB4 last month, that's kind of not true any more.

Just curious. Have you tried any timed runs with your setup? What does your time stamp show on a 50-70 or 60-100. Would love to see where I'm at

 

[MeltedSolid]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvKR3aphErc&ab_channel=MeltedSolid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBVNNTvvWN8&ab_channel=MeltedSolid

These are the only data I have with my car. I'll definitely be taking more after I get the JB4 and IS20 installed.

I looked at the 1st video in my video editor and got the time stamp based on the frame things happened at. The 50-70 is 3.76s, and the 60-100 is roughly 9s (I only get to 97 in the video), though both of those times could be greatly improved if my shift time was faster than an entire second (30 frames exactly), and I wasn't at a density altitude of 7000ft. I'll perfect my speed shifting between now and next time .

 

[TwinDad]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvKR3aphErc&ab_channel=MeltedSolid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBVNNTvvWN8&ab_channel=MeltedSolid

These are the only data I have with my car. I'll definitely be taking more after I get the JB4 and IS20 installed.

I looked at the 1st video in my video editor and got the time stamp based on the frame things happened at. The 50-70 is 3.76s, and the 60-100 is roughly 9s (I only get to 97 in the video), though both of those times could be greatly improved if my shift time was faster than an entire second (30 frames exactly), and I wasn't at a density altitude of 7000ft. I'll perfect my speed shifting between now and next time .

Nice. I need to video mine and try it out. I put in the e85 and ran about 1/4 tank through it then tried some logs and times. I'm hitting 16.6psi at 4,600rpms with zero timing corrections. I tried to stop watch a bunch of 50-70 times and was getting anywhere from 3.5-3.7. I also tried to do a 60-100 today and it was on a curved road. I got 9.06. I know it's. It the most accurate though. I tried to press the start the same exact moment I pushed my foot down. I then would hit stop once I saw the speed in the digital speedo in the center. I did get one 50-70 at 4.0, but the speedo went to 72. If I use the time stamp on the JB4 app, it says I'm 3.2-3.3 for 50-70 and right at 8 seconds for 60-100. George can't confirm the accuracy of it though. That why I was wondering if you had tried it at all. I think the JB4 may have really closed up the gap to the stage 1. I really need to run a stock gti to see how I do.

 

[TwinDad]

Sorry for the hijack. Lol. But I hope this helps you with your tune decision. Go to car and drivers website and see what they time cars for 50-70 and what the golf is stock. A BMW 335 auto does it in 3.4. Unfortunately the data is only good for auto cars. They do the manuals in top gear for some reason

 

[PLF8593]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvKR3aphErc&ab_channel=MeltedSolid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBVNNTvvWN8&ab_channel=MeltedSolid

These are the only data I have with my car. I'll definitely be taking more after I get the JB4 and IS20 installed.

I looked at the 1st video in my video editor and got the time stamp based on the frame things happened at. The 50-70 is 3.76s, and the 60-100 is roughly 9s (I only get to 97 in the video), though both of those times could be greatly improved if my shift time was faster than an entire second (30 frames exactly), and I wasn't at a density altitude of 7000ft. I'll perfect my speed shifting between now and next time .

What is your car? That speedo/tach is from the Mk6 days...

 

[TwinDad]

What is your car? That speedo/tach is from the Mk6 days...

It's a mk7 golf. Our stuff isn't as fancy as the gti

 

[MeltedSolid]

What is your car? That speedo/tach is from the Mk6 days...

It looks a lot like the mk6's (I would know because my brother currently has my old mk6, and I still drive it regularly while not in school), but has a few key differences. The most important of which to me is the display is a lot higher resolution (though not as good as the GTI's) and the digital speedo updates much faster. There are also things like the placement of the trip reset button that are different, but like the car as a whole the cosmetic differences are far from obvious at first glance.