George Ab
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Pacific NW
Pardon, this has changed since I did the original install. Win 7 is no longer required. I updated the original post.
7
DIY MIB1 to MIB2 Infotainment Conversion (Part 1)
- Thread starter George Ab
- Start date
Pardon, this has changed since I did the original install. Win 7 is no longer required. I updated the original post.
George Ab
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Pacific NW
Let's clear up the misinformation. The original DIY thread was updated as follows when someone found how to use the MIB1 amp with the MIB2 head unit.
Replace MIB1 Amplifier (Fender Audio Only).
IMPORTANT UPDATE: Per this thread a MIB1 amplifier can be made to work with a MIB2 head unit. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=806606&postcount=593
yeah sorry didn’t keep up with the thread as much after I did my install lol
Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
Anybody else have TMC traffic working on their retrofit, without an XM subscription? Mine started working yesterday on my drive to work, with 44 reports at that time and was still working when I got off last night, tgis picture with 110. I have never had an XM subscription of any kind on this unit and I don't know how they would have got the radio ID to start a trial, unit was new on install (actual new, not just new to me). I know this information is available over FM in many places and I enabled that in the coding somewhere just for kicks when I got the unit but it never worked until yesterday randomly. I'm in the Los Angeles area. If I go to XM radio I'm still getting the channel asking me to subscribe so it doesn't appear that it was randomly activated by someone giving a wrong radio ID.
I suspect this doesn't matter since the unit doesn't appear to be activated but my car was originally MIB I without nav, then MIB II without nav and also no XM radio subscription (they wanted to charge me $30 to transfer unless I claimed my radio had been stolen, I unsubscribed), and finally MIB II nav. Had no traffic for the first 6 months. Anybody else see this?
I suspect this doesn't matter since the unit doesn't appear to be activated but my car was originally MIB I without nav, then MIB II without nav and also no XM radio subscription (they wanted to charge me $30 to transfer unless I claimed my radio had been stolen, I unsubscribed), and finally MIB II nav. Had no traffic for the first 6 months. Anybody else see this?
there’s a trial going on right now for Sirius. Probably activated traffic but not music for whatever reason
Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
Haha, I see that now. So they're just giving a free trial to everybody, some type of holiday promotion I presume. Didn't realize I could select the traffic notifications but when I did I see it shows the source as Sirius XM. Too bad it's not broadcast over FM here because I'm never going to subscribe to Sirius.
JM Popaleetus
New member
Long time lurker of the forum, and especially this thread. Figured I'd join and compile all the information that I personally applied. Huge thanks to George Ab for making this swap super easy. Also for shapeshifter1's super helpful post (follow the hyperlink for ROW part numbers) here:
I myself started out with a NAR 2015 TDI SEL with the DAP. The original MIB Nav unit was a 5G0 035 876 with V3 NAR maps, manufactured by Panasonic. Bought the following from Car-Part.com and "VW MQB Private Sales" Facebook group:
DO NOT INSTALL THE SOFTWARE THAT COMES WITH THESE 5054 CLONES! Just as pictured on some of the various listings, my clone came with four simple DVD-R's with "1", "2", "3", and "4" written on them in Sharpie. Curious, I booted up a sandbox and extracted the 21-part .rar file across the four discs to find .txt instructions and some .exe files. Basically to "install" ODIS 5.1.3, you run the setup.exe, then the patch.exe to modify the boot shortcut, and finally the keygen.exe to "license" it. The problem is, the latter two .exe files also tried to install EIGHT various trojans and viruses. Not keygen-related false alarms either (i.e., Photoshop cracks), but real defined malware like Zegost and Sality. Nonetheless, because it was sandboxed, I let it install only to find it not work at all with Windows 10. Seems, all these cracked ODIS images seem to rely on Windows 7.
The good news is, Jack doesn't need you to install software or drivers for your 5054 unit. He will send you a 3GB VMware image to boot that directly links your 5054 to him. You can then sit back and watch as he does his thing; occasionally he'll give you instructions to test something. He has this down to a science and I'd highly recommend working with him. His Skype information is posted in this thread. Also worth mentioning again: Jack only works on weekdays (at his leisure) 09:00 to 17:00 CET, which is 3:00a to 11:00a EST. He doesn't share his online status, nor does he answer how-to questions. Only when you're ready to hire him should you send him a message during his "business hours".
As for installation, I'd just add that if you wrap the USB's wiring harness with tesa tape (leave about 3" unwrapped at each end) and use the flashlight trick (shove a flashlight where the headunit goes in the glovebox) you'll have the cable fed in about three mins with no other tools necessary. The tesa tape both protects the cable as you snake it, and from any potential vibrations or cuts. I attached a photo of where I snaked the new harness (pink line): Start where the headunit will be, and feed it left to where the display goes. You can then tuck the wiring up and above the cabin air filter box out of the way. From the display's area, feed it along the existing thick wiring harness down behind the climate controls and into its final spot. Any further slack can be tucked deeper behind the existing wiring. The existing MDI harness (yellow line), I tucked the right end up and to the left of the headunit in the empty space behind the credit card holder thing. The left end was tucked down behind the shifter into a pocket of insulation to keep it from rattling.
When removing the radio/display fascia, be careful of all the metal spring clips and rubber vibration dampeners that easily fall out and get lost inside the dashboard. If you do lose one, I've noticed a few people wondering what the part numbers are. Well:
Honestly, the "hardest" part was coding. Being that all my parts were from different models with different specs, I found George Ab's advice to copy the car's virgin long code to the new modules, and then enable the new features to work perfectly. Nonetheless, here is my coding for a NAR SEL/Autobahn hatchback (i.e., Navi and Fender):
Speaking of Jack, turns out that VW changes the FeC code for the maps and navigation every time they're updated, i.e., V1, V2, etc. I wrongly assumed that since I had nav prior, it would be a direct swap. I had to pay an extra €100 for Jack to buy and activate the newer navigation FeC codes. I'm assuming that's what was meant by this (now slightly incorrect) point in the other linked thread:
Nonetheless, for those that don't mind losing factory nav, definitely go with a cheaper non-nav MIB2 unit. Altogether, I paid Jack €400 (~$465) total for Component Protection to be removed from both the headunit and amp, plus the navigation and App-Connect FeC codes with activation. His price is €300 otherwise (via PayPal at the time of writing this). For those that think this is steep, he has to buy the FeC codes himself to activate them for you.
All said and done, everything works great! The audio definitely sounds better (whether it's the unit or amp, I don't know). And the unit itself is so much faster and responsive.
There are a few glitches that I still need to fix with VCDS. Silly things like toggles for various features in the "Car" menu that mine was never equipped with, like ACC. EDIT/Update! I figured it out! Thanks to this troubleshooting post on a different forum:
When looking for these units, I made sure to find units with a "B" suffix (or later) in the part number. That means they're the newest revision with less bugs. Furthermore, when searching on Car-Part.com be sure to try searching for "Radio/CD" on multiple VW models like the Tiguan, Golf, and GTI. Then carefully read the descriptions and look at the photos, reason is, I found the navi unit I bought wrongly listed in the non-nav group of listings.
I myself started out with a NAR 2015 TDI SEL with the DAP. The original MIB Nav unit was a 5G0 035 876 with V3 NAR maps, manufactured by Panasonic. Bought the following from Car-Part.com and "VW MQB Private Sales" Facebook group:
- MIB2 Unit: 3Q0 035 876 B (Delphi manufactured, navi with V5 NAR Maps) for $180 Shipped via Car-Part.
- 6.5" 'Nav Button' Screen: 5GM 919 605 for $100 Shipped via Facebook group. I went with a 6.5" screen since they've become cheaper, and will fit the MIB1 screen's existing trim. I can now wait patiently to find a cheap 8" glass screen with trim to upgrade later
. - MIB2 Fender Amp: 5Q0 035 456 for $100 Shipped via Facebook group.
- USB/Aux Plug with Wiring: 5G0 035 222 E for $40 Shipped via Facebook group.
- VAS 5054A for $119 Shipped Prime: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N2VN9MF/
- Radio Keys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9DMEU9/
- Tesa 51036 Harness Tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I2MLN2Q/
DO NOT INSTALL THE SOFTWARE THAT COMES WITH THESE 5054 CLONES! Just as pictured on some of the various listings, my clone came with four simple DVD-R's with "1", "2", "3", and "4" written on them in Sharpie. Curious, I booted up a sandbox and extracted the 21-part .rar file across the four discs to find .txt instructions and some .exe files. Basically to "install" ODIS 5.1.3, you run the setup.exe, then the patch.exe to modify the boot shortcut, and finally the keygen.exe to "license" it. The problem is, the latter two .exe files also tried to install EIGHT various trojans and viruses. Not keygen-related false alarms either (i.e., Photoshop cracks), but real defined malware like Zegost and Sality. Nonetheless, because it was sandboxed, I let it install only to find it not work at all with Windows 10. Seems, all these cracked ODIS images seem to rely on Windows 7.
The good news is, Jack doesn't need you to install software or drivers for your 5054 unit. He will send you a 3GB VMware image to boot that directly links your 5054 to him. You can then sit back and watch as he does his thing; occasionally he'll give you instructions to test something. He has this down to a science and I'd highly recommend working with him. His Skype information is posted in this thread. Also worth mentioning again: Jack only works on weekdays (at his leisure) 09:00 to 17:00 CET, which is 3:00a to 11:00a EST. He doesn't share his online status, nor does he answer how-to questions. Only when you're ready to hire him should you send him a message during his "business hours".
As for installation, I'd just add that if you wrap the USB's wiring harness with tesa tape (leave about 3" unwrapped at each end) and use the flashlight trick (shove a flashlight where the headunit goes in the glovebox) you'll have the cable fed in about three mins with no other tools necessary. The tesa tape both protects the cable as you snake it, and from any potential vibrations or cuts. I attached a photo of where I snaked the new harness (pink line): Start where the headunit will be, and feed it left to where the display goes. You can then tuck the wiring up and above the cabin air filter box out of the way. From the display's area, feed it along the existing thick wiring harness down behind the climate controls and into its final spot. Any further slack can be tucked deeper behind the existing wiring. The existing MDI harness (yellow line), I tucked the right end up and to the left of the headunit in the empty space behind the credit card holder thing. The left end was tucked down behind the shifter into a pocket of insulation to keep it from rattling.
When removing the radio/display fascia, be careful of all the metal spring clips and rubber vibration dampeners that easily fall out and get lost inside the dashboard. If you do lose one, I've noticed a few people wondering what the part numbers are. Well:
- Metal Spring Clip: 3B0 867 190
- Rubber Dampener: These don't appear to be available individually. They are included in the part number for the entire display/vent trim.
Honestly, the "hardest" part was coding. Being that all my parts were from different models with different specs, I found George Ab's advice to copy the car's virgin long code to the new modules, and then enable the new features to work perfectly. Nonetheless, here is my coding for a NAR SEL/Autobahn hatchback (i.e., Navi and Fender):
- MIB2 Unit (Module 5F): Will update as soon as I scan my car again.
- MIB2 Amp (Module 47): 2200000000AAAAAA000000000000
Speaking of Jack, turns out that VW changes the FeC code for the maps and navigation every time they're updated, i.e., V1, V2, etc. I wrongly assumed that since I had nav prior, it would be a direct swap. I had to pay an extra €100 for Jack to buy and activate the newer navigation FeC codes. I'm assuming that's what was meant by this (now slightly incorrect) point in the other linked thread:
Nonetheless, for those that don't mind losing factory nav, definitely go with a cheaper non-nav MIB2 unit. Altogether, I paid Jack €400 (~$465) total for Component Protection to be removed from both the headunit and amp, plus the navigation and App-Connect FeC codes with activation. His price is €300 otherwise (via PayPal at the time of writing this). For those that think this is steep, he has to buy the FeC codes himself to activate them for you.
All said and done, everything works great! The audio definitely sounds better (whether it's the unit or amp, I don't know). And the unit itself is so much faster and responsive.
It took a couple times opening and closing the module in VCDS to get all seven of those adaptations to take, but it worked perfectly! From there I was also able to disable screens and toggles in the MIB2's "Car" menu, like ACC, by deactivating adaptations like "Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_acc".Bill@ATR said:
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Louiekaps
Ready to race!
- Location
- Long Beach
- Car(s)
- 2015 Golf TDI
Jack programed my MIB2 this morning as well. I didn't do a nav unit and I went for the 6.5" screen. I spent $410 on the parts, $120 on the cable, and $350 for Mr. Jack.
Overall, I am very happy! I did a rearview camera, helix sub, powerfolding mirrors, and high line door modules as well.
Overall, I am very happy! I did a rearview camera, helix sub, powerfolding mirrors, and high line door modules as well.
George Ab
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Pacific NW
JM so this is your first post on the forum? Kudos! Really useful information. I am going to update the original thread to link in your post.
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JM Popaleetus
New member
Yup! I've been on TDIClub for years, and have linked your and golfdave's threads countless times over there.
A great thing about this thread is, a lot of the information evolved as the community figured things out (such as being able to use the MIB1 amp). So before I could set out and do the swap myself, I compiled the latest info I would need. I figured I'd join and share, if only just to say thanks to you! Those walking in for the first time have a lot of gathering to do in order to put it all together themselves.
So, I’m almost ready to do my full conversion, curious if I can install the screen and install the USB port with my MIB1 system in the meantime? Will the screen still work and just look funny? I know the USB port won’t work and that’s fine, just wanted to get as much done this weekend if I can!
inc55
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
You can, your screen will be divided into 4 squares and you’ll see your screen in one of the squares.
Louiekaps
Ready to race!
- Location
- Long Beach
- Car(s)
- 2015 Golf TDI
I have one big gripe about the mib2 std and im hoping some one has some insight. Let me start by saying I have 2 cell phones, one for work and one personal. Typically I use my personal phone for maps/music and I often take calls on my work phone when commuting. On MIB1 I could only have 1 phone connected via bluetooth so if I got a call on my other phone I had to scramble to get the BT switched over. I was thrilled to see on MIB2 I can have 2 phones connected via BT.
However, the reason I did this retrofit was for CarPlay. Unfortunately, when I have my personal phone plugged in for CarPlay, BT is disabled. If I get a call on my work phone I have to unplug CarPlay which in turns looses maps on the display. I am hoping there is a work around to get BT working alongside CarPlay. If not I am a little disappointed I didn't go for MIB2 high with nav....
However, the reason I did this retrofit was for CarPlay. Unfortunately, when I have my personal phone plugged in for CarPlay, BT is disabled. If I get a call on my work phone I have to unplug CarPlay which in turns looses maps on the display. I am hoping there is a work around to get BT working alongside CarPlay. If not I am a little disappointed I didn't go for MIB2 high with nav....
thank you so much!
JM Popaleetus
New member
I'll dig around and see if there is a fix for that, because the MIB2 does support simultaneous connections to two Bluetooth sources. And it's not a limitation to Carplay because the infotainment system in GM vehicles allow exactly what you're describing. The 2019 Chevy Malibu I was given as a rental let me use CarPlay/Waze on the screen while steaming music over Bluetooth from my girlfriend's phone.
On a side note, CarPlay does support SIM and eSIM functions. So if you have an iPhone XS/XR or newer, you can have both SIM cards from your work and personal lines on one phone, solving the problem you describe. You get two antenna bars and everything.
EDIT: As far as I can tell, the MIB2 links the telephone function directly to CarPlay (as you've discovered) with no way to simultaneously allow another BT telephone. If you want your work phone to be handsfree while your personal is CarPlay'd, you do have some options. In order of elegance:
- https://www.jabra.com/in-car
- Connect your work phone to the car via a 3.5mm AUX cord. When you want to handsfree via your work line, you can just select "Media - AUX". Your iPhone will push the call over the 3.5mm while using it's own Microphone array. Your personal phone's will continue to stream via CarPlay uninterrupted, and Google Maps should continue to push audio over the media.
- Enable Call Forwarding while you drive. This way your work line connects via your personal phone.
- As I do, utilize newer iPhone's dual SIM functionality. Both lines, one phone.
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