DIY: MIB1 > MIB2 NEW SIMPLIFIED Method

[Drewpul]

Hi All,

Firstly, thank you to everyone for the information on the mega MIB1 > MIB2 thread.

After a few months of planning, and securing the parts, I have now successfully upgraded my 2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI to have MIB 2 with Android Auto and Apple Carplay.

Here's a quick video over view of the steps!

There's alot of information out there....and there are several methods to accomplish this. This is the cheapest way that does not require a remote programmer or trip to the dealer. You also do NOT need to purchase a new wiring harness. This valuable nugget of information has been buried prevoiusly.

**WARNING** It is possible to brick your unit, so be sure you are fully understanding the risk before proceeding. Read and understand the instructions before doing. Please read the full tutorials and videos I link out to so that you get the full context. The purpose of this thread is to simply this streamlined method into a single thread without needing to read through threads with hundreds of posts. This process is easy and should not take very long. Double check your work as you go along. Being detailed oriented is the key to success here.

PARTS NEEDED

1. 6.5" Screen - 3G0919605H (~$100)

Spoiler: More details

The 5.8" Screen will not work, so you need to upgrade to the 6.5" or 8". The 6.5" is more common and can be found on 2016 and 2017 pre-facelift mk7 Golfs.The other advantage if going with 6.5" is that you can still use the existing bezel you already have. If you want to upgrade to the 8" screen use Part # 5G0919606 and Bezel Part #5G1819728AFDMD

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2. MIB2 Glovebox Headunit - 3q0035844 (~$100)

Spoiler: More Details

I got mine off a 2017 Golf S. The manufacturer of the unit is Delphi. That is a MUST for this method to work. Seems that most units I came across in the North American market are Delphi. Try to get one in a similar model level as the car you have. It makes programming easier later on. For example, my car and the car I got mine from both had standard non-Fender audio. If there is a mismatch, there will likely be additional programming you'll need to do later on so the car recognizes the different audio setup.

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3. USB Port - 5g0035222 with an inside part of 5q0035726j ($20) Get the plug that connects into it too.

Spoiler: More details

5q0035726J or 5q0035726E should work well. The USB port is fitted in an outer shell with the part number 5g0035222. Some USB ports do not support Apple Carplay. Seems that most do support Android Auto. Get one off a 2016 or 2017. Seems they charged the part number in 2018 which is not compatible. I obtained one with part number 5q0035726M on the inner USB unit. It was off a 2019 sportwagen. Android Auto works, but Carplay does not. Soon I will pick up the correct plug, but it's fine for the time being since I have an Android phone

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4. Get this D-link Adapter (~$10)

Spoiler: More details

MIB does not support USB 3.0, so you must get an adapter with USB 2.0. This is the one I used and it worked well. You also need an ethernet (RJ-45) cable. You also need a Windows computer. I only have a windows desktop, so I made sure my cable was long enough to reach.

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5. SD Card 4GB Formatted to FAT32 (You probably already have one, if not ~$10.)​

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6. Radio Remove tools (~$5)​

Note: You do NOT need a wiring harness!

Spoiler: More details

Thanks to this thread, which I will go into detail about below. All you need to do is move some pins around in the existing wiring harness. Many people buy a harness off Aliexpress and struggle to feed it through. Save yourself time and money, with this repinning method. You also do NOT need a special tool. Just a small flathead screwdriver will do.

HOW TO:

Step 1 - Remove Screen

1. Disconnect Negative Terminal From Battery
2. Remove Hazard lights switch
   Spoiler: Note

   If you do this without disconnecting the battery, you run the risk of throwing a code for SRS
3. Remove Bezel and Vent unit the RIGHT way (Don't follow most YouTube Tutorials) The Right Way Video
4. Use Radio Removal Tools with the hook side facing inward. Put in all 4, and then simply slide it out. There are 2 cables to disconnect

Step 2 (BONUS) - Fix Annoying Knob!
Does it bother you when adjusting your volume, that the power logo spins with the knob? Now is the time to easily fix this, for FREE!

1. Pull Volume Knob off new screen (Just pull hard, it'll come off)
2. Pull Tuning Knob off old screen
3. Push tuning knob in place on new screen.

Isn't it beautiful?

Step 3 - Plug in New Screen

1. Plug in 2 cables. Note, the round 4 pin plug will not slide in. There are 2 little nubs you need to shave off with a razor blade. Then it will fit
2. Assemble the bezel back together if you'd like. But I waited until the end to do this, so I could test everything first

Step 4 - USB Port

Note, the USB port I ended up using is not compatible with Carplay, but it is with Android Auto. Instructions are the same, but your port will likely have an AUX cable. You can wire this in fully without needing a harness. I did not need to do this on mine.

1. Take out cubby behind shift knob. Note, put the car in neutral with the parking brake on. It'll make it easier to get out
2. Unplug the MDI port. There are 2 cables
3. Your new USB port has the same 4 pin plug as the MDI port. Except for it has an additional 2 pins on the top. These are to charge your phone. As long as you got the female end of the plug in addition to the USB port, you'll be in great shape. Open the little purple door, and slide out the cable end. Swap the new cable end on the cable. Now your 4 pins are set up correctly.
4. Now, you need to get wires to the 2 pins on top. Check out the tutorial on post 1307 here. Take the red and the black wires from the rectangle plug from the MDI. You can easily dismantle this all with a small screwdriver. See my video above for a bit more clarity. Pry open the door on the plug. Take a tiny screwdriver and press down on the pin latch. It'll slide out.
5. Once you have these 2 out, insert them into the top 2 slots on the new USB port you got. Refer to the tutorial link above to be sure you get the polarity right!
6. Put the cubby back in. Plug in the plug. Don't lock it all back into place until you test. But that's it!

Step 5 - Head Unit Wiring

1. Take out Headunit from glovebox using the same removal tools
2. Unplug everything in the back.
3. The "quad lock" is the big plug. You'll see there are smaller plugs inside. Take out the Green one. It slides out with a little tab
4. I had an extra green plug that came with my new unit. All you need in the green one now is a red and a black for power. Red will go in port 3. Black will go in port 4. I simply put these wires in my new green adapter. And I left the old one tucked behind. So if I ever want to go back to how it was, it'll be easy.
5. Now you can insert the headunit back into its slot. Don't snap it in yet until you do your testing. It is possible to leave it hanging out about an inch and still have the glovebox door shut FYI

Step 6 - Coding

This part is quite simple. I'm linking out to the tutorials I followed since there's no need for me to rehash all this here.

1. Connect your battery back up, and press the power button on your car (it does not need to be running)
2. The system should fully boot up. Test it out to ensure the screen and buttons are working. Plug in your phone and Android Auto/Carplay will be working. You will notice there is text on the screen that says "Component Protection." This reduces some of the functionality including audio from coming out of the speakers. So the next step is to deactivate Component Protection.
3. Active the Green Engineering Menu. This will allow us to connect to the unit via USB/Ethernet
4. Now we need to be able to load scripts from the SD card. To do this, run this Activator by Congo and Duke.
5. Now, connect your ethernet adapter to the car and to to your computer. Get the two to communicate using this tutorial. You will need to download Putty for free.
6. Check to see what Software train/version you are using. You get to this screen by pressing and holding the menu button for about 3 seconds. My version is MST2_US_VW_P0504D. This means it is a standard (non-nav unit), USA market, Volkswagen. The D at the end refers to it being manufactured by Delphi. And the P0504 is telling us what firmware version this is running. It is my understanding this is the newest firmware this unit should have. I believe these following steps will work with any firmware that is similar to this. If this does not work, there may be a more specific script for you. I would go to mibsolution.one and mibwiki.one for assistance. They have a Telegram chat group which is very helpful with the real experts.
7. Now it's time to set up your SD card. On a Windows computer, format it to Fat32. Then drag these two scripts onto the SD card. The SD card will need ONLY these 2 files on it delphi.sh and delphibin.ifs. NOTE: This is safe to do as long as your software train ends in P0504D. If it does, not, read my step 6 a few sentences above.
8. Insert SD Card into the headunit
9. Final step! All you need to do is type in the following on your computer through your Putty app. The full tutorial can also be found in the CP patch section here.
10. Unit will restart, and CP will no longer show up! Everything will function as it ought to!

Note: You may need to go into byte_19_USB under long adaptations in your OBDeleven to set the port to USB_ipod to get AppleCarplay to work.
Note 2: You will not need to use any SwAP or FeC codes in this process. The script will remove the check for CP, and as long as your donor head unit already had Android Auto/Apple Carplay, you will be good to go.

Conclusion

Hope this all is helpful! It took me many hours of research to fully understand how to do this with my budget constraints, and I am very pleased that this indeed is possible to do without needing external help and coding. Parts are getting cheaper and more available now that the mk7 is aging. So if you have a 2015 Golf, this upgrade is a MUST!

 

[brentgti]

1. Now it's time to set up your SD card. On a Windows computer, format it to Fat32. Then drag these two scripts onto the SD card. The SD card will need ONLY these 2 files on it delphi.sh and delphibin.ifs.

View attachment 288231

View attachment 288232

Very thorough write up! I would suggest adding some clarification around this step though. delphibin.ifs is specific to the software train and unit type (as denoted in your screenshot). Dropping the delphibin.ifs that you used on a different unit with a different software train is likely going to cause someone to have a very bad time (assuming that is what is linked).

 

[mrmatto]

Amazing! Thank you.

Note, the USB port I ended up using is not compatible with Carplay, but it is with Android Auto.

Can you explain what you mean by this, and what would be required for Car Play? I’m not clear on which part is required for this.

 

[brentgti]

Check to see what Software train/version you are using. You get to this screen by pressing and holding the menu button for about 3 seconds. My version is MST2_US_VW_P0504D. This means it is a standard (non-nav unit), USA market, Volkswagen. The D at the end refers to it being manufactured by Delphi. And the P0504 is telling us what firmware version this is running. It is my understanding this is the newest firmware this unit should have. I believe these following steps will work with any firmware that is similar to this. If this does not work, there may be a more specific script for you. I would go to mibsolution.one and mibwiki.one for assistance. They have a Telegram chat group which is very helpful with the real experts.

Also worth noting that the part number of the Delphi unit helps determine which software train it can run. There are newer Delphi software trains, but part number 3Q0035844 has some oddities.

 

[brentgti]

Can you explain what you mean by this, and what would be required for Car Play? I’m not clear on which part is required for this.

Some USB port assemblies do not support CarPlay but instead support Android Auto. You can generally tell from pictures as the CarPlay compatible parts have a longer plug on the back. I think 5G0 035 222 E and 5G0 035 222 H are the assemblies with CarPlay compatibility and the AUX port. It might also be possible to buy the USB module alone and swap it, but I never had the assembly with the AUX port so no direct experience there.

 

[Sc629]

Oh very interesting, was always curious if you can do the component protection patch while the unit itself is in component protection. May go ahead and try to replace my current MIB1->2 setup since my current unit has some fits

 

[zigrow]

Very thorough write up! I would suggest adding some clarification around this step though. delphibin.ifs is specific to the software train and unit type (as denoted in your screenshot). Dropping the delphibin.ifs that you used on a different unit with a different software train is likely going to cause someone to have a very bad time (assuming that is what is linked).

Am I understanding that if there isn't a CP patched delphibin.ifs for your US SW train that you should then convert to EU firmware?

 

[brentgti]

Am I understanding that if there isn't a CP patched delphibin.ifs for your US SW train that you should then convert to EU firmware?

The general recommendation would be to update your main unit's firmware to a US software train that has a patched delphibin.ifs. Converting to EU firmware will cause Sirius/XM to stop working (if that matters to you) and generally will cause the built-in navigation to not work. Also need to take care to make sure the EU firmware is compatible with the specific main unit device variant.

What I was pointing out in the guide is that delphibin.ifs is specific to a software train. The guide specifies, 'Then drag these two scripts onto the SD card.' You need to make sure you obtain the delphibin.ifs that corresponds to your unit's firmware and put that on the SD card with the script that will replace the ifs on the unit. If you use the same delphibin.ifs that was used in the tutorial, and your unit is not running the same software train as the one in the tutorial, your unit will likely fail to boot and may be bricked. I think there is risk that someone following the tutorial will not realize that and end up with a mess.

 

[zigrow]

The general recommendation would be to update your main unit's firmware to a US software train that has a patched delphibin.ifs. Converting to EU firmware will cause Sirius/XM to stop working (if that matters to you) and generally will cause the built-in navigation to not work. Also need to take care to make sure the EU firmware is compatible with the specific main unit device variant.

Would you consider updating the main unit's FW to a higher # US FW through the GEM manual SWDL safer than doing the EU conversion? (Loss of SiriusXM doesn't matter to me)
In my specific situation I have 3Q0035844A w/ MST2_US_VW_P0635D MU0757. I was looking at the US>EU conversion because there's no CP patch for the Plus in my SW train.

MST2_US_VW_P0635D > MST2_EU_VW_P0635D
or
MST2_US_VW_P0635D > MST2_US_VW_P0867D

Thanks!

 

[brentgti]

Would you consider updating the main unit's FW to a higher # US FW through the GEM manual SWDL safer than doing the EU conversion? (Loss of SiriusXM doesn't matter to me)
In my specific situation I have 3Q0035844A w/ MST2_US_VW_P0635D MU0757. I was looking at the US>EU conversion because there's no CP patch for the Plus in my SW train.

MST2_US_VW_P0635D > MST2_EU_VW_P0635D
or
MST2_US_VW_P0635D > MST2_US_VW_P0867D

Thanks!

I do not have experience with regional conversions or software train jumps with Delphi units, so I am not sure if I can give you a recommendation one way or the other. My general view is to avoid regional conversions if the region does not match the one the car will be in, but there are circumstances where that might not be feasible or might not make sense.

I have come across posts that discuss modifying the unit to think it is a newer revision part and thus getting it to work with newer Delphi software trains. It involves using the SD card Duke and Congo activator in conjunction with some hex editing: https://www.drive2.ru/b/642797588415793331. In the linked example, it looks like it is the same part number you have with a slightly older software train. It may be possible to follow the guide and then not perform the steps for the region conversion. I don't know how risky this would be (some posts claim these types of conversions are only safe on units with navigation), so I can't recommend it but thought it was worthwhile to share.

You could also have the component protection removed through ODIS since you have the VAS tool.

 

[mrmatto]

This doesn’t sound so simple anymore lol

 

[brentgti]

This doesn’t sound so simple anymore lol

. It's not bad if you have one of the supported software trains.

 

[zigrow]

You could also have the component protection removed through ODIS since you have the VAS tool.

Maybe you recommended this to me in another thread. I do have the VAS5054a.
In this case, wouldn't I have to get an ODIS subscription or have a remote coder complete this service?

 

[brentgti]

Maybe you recommended this to me in another thread. I do have the VAS5054a.
In this case, wouldn't I have to get an ODIS subscription or have a remote coder complete this service?

There have been services you can purchase that grant online access through ODIS for something like $25 for an hour; I think there are murmurs that VW is going to make changes that will prevent this at some point. If you went that route, you would just need ODIS to go through the function to remove component protection. You could alternatively have a remote coder do it as well.

 

[backcountry]

Thanks for this thread. It promped me to buy parts on eBay and do the retrofit. A couple of differences in my install that I'll detail for others:

1. I purchased the USB carplay harness from eBay for $23 as I didn't feel comfortable trying to open up the factory plugs to change pins. Routing the cable to the glovebox was pretty simple. I dropped the glovebox and easily go the cable to the area of the cabin filter and then was easy to get it up to the headunit area from there. I used a lighted boroscope which has a somewhat stiff cable to feed the wires through.
2. My headunit came with P0268D loaded from the factory. I unlocked it with Congo & Duke (may not have been necessary) and then upgraded to P0365D (non-nav) from mibsolution. I then ran Congo & Duke 3.0 and it removed the CP for me.
3. I did not need the D-Link adapter or to put the two scripts (steps 5-9 above) since Congo & Duke 3.0 did all of the work
4. I went to https://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/ and did that fix. Not sure if it's even necessary
5. Everything worked properly except I couldn't get sound or see module 47 in VCDS until brentgti helped me here: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...ainment-conversion-part-1.343701/post-8003154 After those changes were made, I was able to see module 47 and change byte 0.

Everything is working perfectly now. I also added a carlinkit mini so I have wireless carplay now.

Be sure to check all of the coding in the Adaptations section using VCDS. I overlooked a setting and was having intermittent issues with my reverse camera. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/reverse-camera-issues-after-swap-to-mib2.436597/