I only have an SAE tape measure with me, so you'll have to convert to metric. Here are some pictures of the measurements at different spots on the spokes. PP caliper for reference.
You're welcome. I agree, it's close so that 5mm spacer is good to have on hand.
Took me over two weeks to get this project done, but I just wanted to share my experience doing this brake upgrade (my first time ever doing a big brake upgrade):
1. High temp rattle can paint (primer + base + clear + ceramic) came out not half bad, but it's soft as cookie dough and paper thin. I've already nicked the paint by the bleeder valves
2. Make sure to bleed the system in the correct order (LF -> RF -> LR -> RR), outer bleeder valve -> inner bleeder vavle, and pressurize your power bleeder up to approx. 30psi if you are using one. I first bled the system like every other car starting with the brake caliper farthest from the MC and only used about 20 psi in my power bleeder. That first drive was not confidence inspiring. After correctly bleeding the system and using the correct amount of PSI in my power bleeder, the brakes feel awesome! @GTIfan99 Can you add this brake bleed procedure as note in the OP? It would be very helpful for noobs like myself.
3. Use Centric 105-16630 pads for those of us that have a brake wear sensor. These are great daily driver pads. @GTIfan99 Can you add this brake pad part # the OP as well? It took me a while to hunt these down.
4. If you are using stainless steel lines for Techna-Fit, make sure to screw in the caliper side first because you have to rotate the entire line as you screw it in.
5. I hammered the edges of my stock brake dust shield flat so it wouldn't rub against my new 345mm rotors.
6. If you plan on disassembling this caliper, getting the pistons out was a PIA even with a blow gun. One piston would come out, but now you have the other piston still stuck in the caliper. Maybe this is because these are brand new calipers with no fluid inside them to evenly distribute the air pressure?
I almost regret not just buying a big brake kit like the Stoptech ST40, but I did learn a lot more about brakes than I knew before. Thanks to you all the very helpful info in this thread!
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Took me over two weeks to get this project done, but I just wanted to share my experience doing this brake upgrade (my first time ever doing a big brake upgrade):
1. High temp rattle can paint (primer + base + clear + ceramic) came out not half bad, but it's soft as cookie dough and paper thin. I've already nicked the paint by the bleeder valves
2. Make sure to bleed the system in the correct order (LF -> RF -> LR -> RR), outer bleeder valve -> inner bleeder vavle, and pressurize your power bleeder up to approx. 30psi if you are using one. I first bled the system like every other car starting with the brake caliper farthest from the MC and only used about 20 psi in my power bleeder. That first drive was not confidence inspiring. After correctly bleeding the system and using the correct amount of PSI in my power bleeder, the brakes feel awesome! @GTIfan99 Can you add this brake bleed procedure as note in the OP? It would be very helpful for noobs like myself.
3. Use Centric 105-16630 pads for those of us that have a brake wear sensor. These are great daily driver pads. @GTIfan99 Can you add this brake pad part # the OP as well? It took me a while to hunt these down.
4. If you are using stainless steel lines for Techna-Fit, make sure to screw in the caliper side first because you have to rotate the entire line as you screw it in.
5. I hammered the edges of my stock brake dust shield flat so it wouldn't rub against my new 345mm rotors.
6. If you plan on disassembling this caliper, getting the pistons out was a PIA even with a blow gun. One piston would come out, but now you have the other piston still stuck in the caliper. Maybe this is because these are brand new calipers with no fluid inside them to evenly distribute the air pressure?
I almost regret not just buying a big brake kit like the Stoptech ST40, but I did learn a lot more about brakes than I knew before. Thanks to you all the very helpful info in this thread!
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Thanks and yes, this is the Racingline kit. They don't poke out far at all, but I'll take a picture later today.
I have the 70mm length Racingline studs. Maybe you have the 80mm set?
I have the 70mm length Racingline studs. Maybe you have the 80mm set?
Here's a few pics I was able to take today. Hope these help.
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Just in case anyone was wondering how much clearance there is with the Macan brakes and Neuspeed RSe10 18X8.5:
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Removing the piston isnt actually hard. I can do it with two flat heads with rubber tips now pretty easily. You can use leverage points on the calipers and just push them out relatively easy. I got good at removing them from having to swap the pistons due to mismatching the darker and lighter pistons.. Also why did you split the calipers? Couldn't you just paint with them still connected and assembled? Even if you plan on curing the high-temp paint, I think they can cure at around 200F which shouldn't affect the rubbers. Usually calipers are disassembled for powdercoating.Took me over two weeks to get this project done, but I just wanted to share my experience doing this brake upgrade (my first time ever doing a big brake upgrade):
1. High temp rattle can paint (primer + base + clear + ceramic) came out not half bad, but it's soft as cookie dough and paper thin. I've already nicked the paint by the bleeder valves
2. Make sure to bleed the system in the correct order (LF -> RF -> LR -> RR), outer bleeder valve -> inner bleeder vavle, and pressurize your power bleeder up to approx. 30psi if you are using one. I first bled the system like every other car starting with the brake caliper farthest from the MC and only used about 20 psi in my power bleeder. That first drive was not confidence inspiring. After correctly bleeding the system and using the correct amount of PSI in my power bleeder, the brakes feel awesome! @GTIfan99 Can you add this brake bleed procedure as note in the OP? It would be very helpful for noobs like myself.
3. Use Centric 105-16630 pads for those of us that have a brake wear sensor. These are great daily driver pads. @GTIfan99 Can you add this brake pad part # the OP as well? It took me a while to hunt these down.
4. If you are using stainless steel lines for Techna-Fit, make sure to screw in the caliper side first because you have to rotate the entire line as you screw it in.
5. I hammered the edges of my stock brake dust shield flat so it wouldn't rub against my new 345mm rotors.
6. If you plan on disassembling this caliper, getting the pistons out was a PIA even with a blow gun. One piston would come out, but now you have the other piston still stuck in the caliper. Maybe this is because these are brand new calipers with no fluid inside them to evenly distribute the air pressure?
I almost regret not just buying a big brake kit like the Stoptech ST40, but I did learn a lot more about brakes than I knew before. Thanks to you all for the very helpful info in this thread!
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I was afraid of scratching the pistons using a flat head screwdriver, but I didn't think of using rubber tips. I split the calipers so that it would be easier to remove the pistons and apply the red rubber grease. It also made painting the inside of the calipers much easier.
