Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[Raguvian]

At 50 mph, there no difference.

My whole car is following the "good from far but far from good" theme.

 

[AceHammer]

I'd avoid clear coat on calipers IMO. Would much rather replace a decal every couple of years if it gets beat up, than have to sand the entire caliper cause the clear coat is yellowing

 

[zucchinies]

Anyone know what's needed to swap the calipers? I read I might need a torx 45 or 55 and just want to make sure I have everything I need.

 

[burgerkong]

Anyone know what's needed to swap the calipers? I read I might need a torx 45 or 55 and just want to make sure I have everything I need.

A 21mm socket for the caliper bracket bolts and I think a 13mm for the old caliper sliders.

 

[scrapin240]

Anyone know what's needed to swap the calipers? I read I might need a torx 45 or 55 and just want to make sure I have everything I need.

Just 21 mm socket, torque wrench (200 Nm) and 11 mm wrench for bleeding. And line removal..I don't remember if it's also a 11

takeff the old line at the hard line and then the old caliper 21mm and that's it. Leave the old line attached to the original caliper. This way no fussing with crush washers if you want to reinstall

 

[AceHammer]

Might need to remove/loosen the 13mm caliper nuts and take the pads out depending on how worn your rotors were.

 

[Raguvian]

I just did the swap today, and it's a 21 mm socket as stated for the caliper bolts, 11mm for soft line to hard line and for the bleeders, and 14mm for the side of the line that goes into the caliper

Edit: forgot the T30 torx needed to remove the rotor and dust shield.

 

[scrapin240]

Just a heads up that my Macan calipers have a new owner.

Hope the new owner enjoys them!

 

[Raguvian]

I finished installing the brakes today. Keeping the brake pedal depressed the whole time was a great tip (and is actually mentioned in the Erwin manual) and didn't leak a drop for me.

I'm not sure if I did a good enough job bleeding the brakes. It was my first time really using the Motive Power Bleeder, and it seemed to take no time at all before bubbles stopped coming out. I thought I was doing something wrong till I saw my (fairly big) bleeder bottle was full. I guess it just makes things much faster instead of the pedal method as it continuously forces fluid out instead of just 1 pump worth of fluid?

I did the FL, FR, RL, RR order and did it twice to double check, then did the VCDS adaptations as from the 1st post. The pedal feels OK with the car off, but unfortunately I wasn't able to drive the car as I ceramic coated it yesterday and it started snowing today (can't get the car wet for ~72 hours). I'm hoping while bedding in the brakes I can cycle the ABS a few times and rebleed next weekend. Whether or not I need to re bleed I'll take the wheels off anyway to check for any leaks, and also to do some wheel well cleaning behind the fender liners.

I absolutely love the way the brakes fill out the 17" Motegi's. Thanks all for your help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I bed and break in the pads.

 

[bdollazzz]

I finished installing the brakes today. Keeping the brake pedal depressed the whole time was a great tip (and is actually mentioned in the Erwin manual) and didn't leak a drop for me.

I'm not sure if I did a good enough job bleeding the brakes. It was my first time really using the Motive Power Bleeder, and it seemed to take no time at all before bubbles stopped coming out. I thought I was doing something wrong till I saw my (fairly big) bleeder bottle was full. I guess it just makes things much faster instead of the pedal method as it continuously forces fluid out instead of just 1 pump worth of fluid?

I did the FL, FR, RL, RR order and did it twice to double check, then did the VCDS adaptations as from the 1st post. The pedal feels OK with the car off, but unfortunately I wasn't able to drive the car as I ceramic coated it yesterday and it started snowing today (can't get the car wet for ~72 hours). I'm hoping while bedding in the brakes I can cycle the ABS a few times and rebleed next weekend. Whether or not I need to re bleed I'll take the wheels off anyway to check for any leaks, and also to do some wheel well cleaning behind the fender liners.

I absolutely love the way the brakes fill out the 17" Motegi's. Thanks all for your help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I bed and break in the pads.

Looks good! Going to be my first time using the motive bleeder for doing my brakes as well when it arrives in the next few days. All the Youtube I've seen where they used it, they seemed to continue to let the fluid come out regardless of if it stopped bubbling until they saw the new lighter color fluid coming out. Wondering if after I finish if I will have a firm pedal like I want or if it will just be "ok" as you described.

 

[Raguvian]

Looks good! Going to be my first time using the motive bleeder for doing my brakes as well when it arrives in the next few days. All the Youtube I've seen where they used it, they seemed to continue to let the fluid come out regardless of if it stopped bubbling until they saw the new lighter color fluid coming out. Wondering if after I finish if I will have a firm pedal like I want or if it will just be "ok" as you described.

The Motul RBF600 looks the same as the factory stuff so it's hard to tell when the new stuff comes out. I used to switch between ATE Typ 200 and ATE Super Blue but Super Blue was banned for being dyed...

 

[bdollazzz]

The Motul RBF600 looks the same as the factory stuff so it's hard to tell when the new stuff comes out. I used to switch between ATE Typ 200 and ATE Super Blue but Super Blue was banned for being dyed...

Gotcha, I plan on using Pentosin DOT 4 which should work fine from what I hear.

 

[zucchinies]

I finished installing the brakes today. Keeping the brake pedal depressed the whole time was a great tip (and is actually mentioned in the Erwin manual) and didn't leak a drop for me.

I'm not sure if I did a good enough job bleeding the brakes. It was my first time really using the Motive Power Bleeder, and it seemed to take no time at all before bubbles stopped coming out. I thought I was doing something wrong till I saw my (fairly big) bleeder bottle was full. I guess it just makes things much faster instead of the pedal method as it continuously forces fluid out instead of just 1 pump worth of fluid?

I did the FL, FR, RL, RR order and did it twice to double check, then did the VCDS adaptations as from the 1st post. The pedal feels OK with the car off, but unfortunately I wasn't able to drive the car as I ceramic coated it yesterday and it started snowing today (can't get the car wet for ~72 hours). I'm hoping while bedding in the brakes I can cycle the ABS a few times and rebleed next weekend. Whether or not I need to re bleed I'll take the wheels off anyway to check for any leaks, and also to do some wheel well cleaning behind the fender liners.

I absolutely love the way the brakes fill out the 17" Motegi's. Thanks all for your help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I bed and break in the pads.

Looks great! Thanks for the tip on keeping the brake pedal depressed. Guessing you did it so fluid doesn't come out while replacing the caliper and lines? I also bought the motive brake bleeder. 50 bucks for something I'll probably use more than once. Will probably make me want to flush out my fluid more

 

[nono0044]

I absolutely love the way the brakes fill out the 17" Motegi's. Thanks all for your help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I bed and break in the pads.

I remember you had clearance issues with your studs and lug nuts with the Motegis. What did you end up doing to get them to fit? Did you go down to 17mm nuts?

 

[Raguvian]

Looks great! Thanks for the tip on keeping the brake pedal depressed. Guessing you did it so fluid doesn't come out while replacing the caliper and lines? I also bought the motive brake bleeder. 50 bucks for something I'll probably use more than once. Will probably make me want to flush out my fluid more

Yep, the manual says to open the bleeder on a caliper (I did drivers front), then depress the pedal and keep it down. I used a jack handle wedged onto the seat. Then close the bleeder valve and you're good to go.

I actually removed the caliper and line, then the rotor and dust shield and replaced with the new ones, mounted the calipers and pads and then put the line back on so there was at least 15-20 minutes of the lines being disconnected and I didn't have any spillage. I'd still put a pan under the lines though.