erikweber321
Ready to race!
I found a shop about an hour away that will do it for me. I'll keep updating
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7
50k miles valve cleaning exploration time
- Thread starter erikweber321
- Start date
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GroceryGTIer
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Tri-state
Yes indeed
Tigsel
Ready to race!
- Location
- The other side
It also eats seals, so be careful how you use it. CRC on the other hand was design to attack carbon while being easy on the seals.
PouncingPanzer1
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Cleveland/Amish Country
I quoted 4 hours for the job when I turned wrenches. Used a walnut blaster. Did wonders. Granted, that was when the Mk7 first came out and I left the trade before any reached any such mileage.
drrck
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Zeeland, MI, USA
The Focus guys have a system to keep their intake valves clean. I looked into it when I had to do the carbon cleaning on my MK6. It's a water/methanol mix that is injected via a throttle body spacer and it does an excellent job.
I did my MK6 at around 50k. Symptoms were rough cold idle and occasional misfire codes for cylinder 2.
The buildup was heavy and very difficult to remove. I was soaking the valves in carbon cleaner and was using picks and wire brushes in a drill to remove the build up. It wasn't oil...more like lava rock. lol
Unless you're starting off with a clean system, I'm really skeptical that you can remove build up by running something through the system. Just plan to do it every 40-50k. It's a fairly easy job after the first time.
I did my MK6 at around 50k. Symptoms were rough cold idle and occasional misfire codes for cylinder 2.
The buildup was heavy and very difficult to remove. I was soaking the valves in carbon cleaner and was using picks and wire brushes in a drill to remove the build up. It wasn't oil...more like lava rock. lol
Unless you're starting off with a clean system, I'm really skeptical that you can remove build up by running something through the system. Just plan to do it every 40-50k. It's a fairly easy job after the first time.
Oldschoolmk7
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Yonder
I just sprayed 3 cans of crc and now my engine farts black smoke. Map sensor shit the bed, and my turbo blade is micro polished. .
.Tigsel
Ready to race!
- Location
- The other side
I just sprayed 3 cans of crc and now my engine farts black smoke. Map sensor shit the bed, and my turbo blade is micro polished.
Why not spray the entire 6-pack while you were at it? Geez, 3 cans??? Sometimes more in not better.
How did you administered it? The safest way is to unplug and remove MAP sensor and spray it directly into the manifold. I bet you did it trough the air intake, didn't you?
Quick update, sorry no picture to post at the moment, although I did take some pics. I was able to get an endoscopic camera close to the #3 intake valves, through the MAP sensor bung, but was not abke to get a full view. However, I could see enough to know that at 3000mi on the odometer, there is definitely already a light buildup of crud. Probably wouldn't have made it out with the grainy camera image, except for the cleaned or cleaner zone up on the valve stem... Although, the valves seemed closed? Anyway, I'm pretty sure it was some buildup. I guess there is some kind of swirl control flap in the intake runner? I couldn't get past it with the camera...
Pretty convinced that, assuming solvents can help a lot, I'll tap or drill the molded port-injector blank ports. Probably can't be done with manifold in place...
Pretty convinced that, assuming solvents can help a lot, I'll tap or drill the molded port-injector blank ports. Probably can't be done with manifold in place...
Hoon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Rhode Island
Sadly this doesn't surprise me.
There is a flap in the intake manifold. I couldn't seem to get my scope by it when i attempted this.
Searched for "Injector bung plug" and apparently these can be purchased...
http://thedubshop.com/14mm-fuel-injector-plug/
I'm contemplating using a dremmel and vacuum to carefully open the ports without removing manifold. I could use a small vacuum tube to suck out any debris that falls into the runners, but trust that whatever small manifold plastic shavings get into the motor, won't really hurt it... Dremmel because grinding will hopefully create fine dust that will be less likely to cause damage, more likely to combust.
Would need a dummy fuel rail to hold the plugs against boost pressure...
PS: trying to find close up images of interior of the manifold. I found the part number, and some images, but not super clear. Ideally I'd be able to hold a manifold assembly in my hand... Maybe a junk yard?? Or maybe a dealer might have one by chance? This is to plan out the drilling/cutting procedure.
http://thedubshop.com/14mm-fuel-injector-plug/
I'm contemplating using a dremmel and vacuum to carefully open the ports without removing manifold. I could use a small vacuum tube to suck out any debris that falls into the runners, but trust that whatever small manifold plastic shavings get into the motor, won't really hurt it... Dremmel because grinding will hopefully create fine dust that will be less likely to cause damage, more likely to combust.
Would need a dummy fuel rail to hold the plugs against boost pressure...
PS: trying to find close up images of interior of the manifold. I found the part number, and some images, but not super clear. Ideally I'd be able to hold a manifold assembly in my hand... Maybe a junk yard?? Or maybe a dealer might have one by chance? This is to plan out the drilling/cutting procedure.
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So this YouTube video suggests I could have manually actuated the flapper shaft, and got in closer...
https://youtu.be/qJI5BtA2JWE
I'll have to try that...
https://youtu.be/qJI5BtA2JWE
I'll have to try that...
OK, some updates. I've done a few things.
I tested the CRC intake valve cleaner on a cold valve on the bench that had some carbon crusting. After an hour it seemed to do very little. I'll perform more testing with other specimens, and at elevated temp.
I re-inspected my #3 intake valves with the endoscope. This time, I used a hand vacuum pump (Mity-Vac TM) to actuate the intake runner flapper valves. Very simple to do. Now I was able to insert the camera all the way in. I took photos and video, but for simplicity, here are a few pics. 2987mi, I dont baby the car, and flog it regularly, but I do drive easy for economy most of the time.
I think my next task, after more detailed analysis of the solvent power of the various chemicals, will be to administer frequent and regular treatments of the CRC into my #3 runner via the MAP port, and see if there is any noticeable improvement. I'm thinking once every 200-500 miles. This assumes the chemical testing suggests it's worthwhile.
Note, I'm quite sure the valves are closed, even though they appear to be open. I took video of the valves while pushing the car in gear - the valves did not move.
I tested the CRC intake valve cleaner on a cold valve on the bench that had some carbon crusting. After an hour it seemed to do very little. I'll perform more testing with other specimens, and at elevated temp.
I re-inspected my #3 intake valves with the endoscope. This time, I used a hand vacuum pump (Mity-Vac TM) to actuate the intake runner flapper valves. Very simple to do. Now I was able to insert the camera all the way in. I took photos and video, but for simplicity, here are a few pics. 2987mi, I dont baby the car, and flog it regularly, but I do drive easy for economy most of the time.
I think my next task, after more detailed analysis of the solvent power of the various chemicals, will be to administer frequent and regular treatments of the CRC into my #3 runner via the MAP port, and see if there is any noticeable improvement. I'm thinking once every 200-500 miles. This assumes the chemical testing suggests it's worthwhile.
Note, I'm quite sure the valves are closed, even though they appear to be open. I took video of the valves while pushing the car in gear - the valves did not move.
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