3D Printed Parts - Fun & Functional

[Nerdy Oreo]

So the guy at the 3D printing shop said for me to just let him know what would be better material and he could remake it with stronger material.. So what would be a list of maybe like the top 3 or 5 plastics to use for this mount?

-ABS
-PEEK
-Ultem
-PEEK

???

I have been working with 3d printers for around 6 years now. I print parts for automotive use in either ASA or PETG. That's it. Both common and very cost effective materials!

 

[Nerdy Oreo]

Carbon or glass filled ABS, not by itself

Regular old ASA will work just fine as long as its not in the engine bay

 

[Nerdy Oreo]

Sorry to necro this, but it's a great thread anyway. Came across this looking for an Accessport mount for my MK7.5 Golf R. I wasn't keen on anything I've seen so I designed my own that mounts to the left vent. It's designed around the original ram ball sticky mount included with the Accessport, but you should be able to stick whatever you want to it. Left vent controls are still accessible and no modifications are made.

https://thangs.com/m/36468

I can confirm that this has been the best mount ive tried so far.

 

[nicholam77]

Personally I really like this clutch stop:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3536319

 

[dtfd]

Sorry to necro this, but it's a great thread anyway. Came across this looking for an Accessport mount for my MK7.5 Golf R. I wasn't keen on anything I've seen so I designed my own that mounts to the left vent. It's designed around the original ram ball sticky mount included with the Accessport, but you should be able to stick whatever you want to it. Left vent controls are still accessible and no modifications are made.

https://thangs.com/m/36468

I printed this one and can confirm it's awesome. So much better than having my AP on the window like it was before.

 

[dtfd]

I've got some PETG coming this week and I was going to try printing these bad boys. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4700013

Has anyone on here done this print? Do you guys see any issues with me deciding on PETG rather than ABS or ASA. My printer is set up in my office so I really don't want to use something like ABS and I don't mind reprinting if I run into issues down the line.

 

[yakboyslim]

I've got some PETG coming this week and I was going to try printing these bad boys. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4700013

Has anyone on here done this print? Do you guys see any issues with me deciding on PETG rather than ABS or ASA. My printer is set up in my office so I really don't want to use something like ABS and I don't mind reprinting if I run into issues down the line.

I printed an intake scoop in PETG and no problems after about a year. Brake ducts are a little more "in the environment" but I suspect you will be fine, especially if you are willing to reprint every once in a while.



I need to find the file and share on thingiverse, but I made a throttle pedal spacer that has worked great for me.

When I printed it originally I printed as many as would fit on the print bed, so I have some leftover. If anyone is interested in an already printed one, PM me. Not looking to make money, but a few dollars would more than justify putting them in an envelope and dropping them at the post office.

 

[dtfd]

Anyone use their kinect as a 3D scanner?

Seems like a cheap way to get seemingly decent 3D scans. Especially helps that I've got an xbox one with kinect that's just collecting dust.

 

[dtfd]

Okay 3D print bros. It's time for everyone's favorite game, what's the newbie doing wrong?

I've been cranking out prints with PLA since I got my printer last week. I just got some PETG (inland PETG) and I've been trying to print a calibration cube just to get the setting rights. I've had 7 prints fail right at the start. I started with the nozzle temp at 230, bed temp at 80. I've stepped down nozzle temp 5 degrees all the way down to 215 (below what's recommended). I tried bed temp at 80, 70, and 85. I tried printing with a skirt, and then a brim. I dropped the print speed from 60 mm/s to 50 mm/s. I get the same result every single time, the PETG just flows out of the nozzle on its own, doesn't stick to the bed, or just sticks to itself at the wrong place and causes a mess. I checked my bed leveling at 80 and use the auto-level before every test. Each print has ended up looking like this. This was supposed to be a calibration CUBE.

Any ideas on what I should be doing to correct this? Should I keep dropping my nozzle temp, I'm already 10 degrees below the minimum recommended. Should I use something like hairspray or painters tape on the bed?

 

[yakboyslim]

In my experience I have needed slightly more "squish" on the first layer than with PLA. I also don't recall my temp setting exactly, but I though the nozzle was at least 230. I've had to stick with slower print speeds for PETG.
Last one, and this might just be the two rolls I have bought, but when I print PETG I have to use my filament dryer. Even fresh out of the bag I was getting crazy stringing. This doesn't really make sense though, but it has been my experience that I can't finish a PETG print without my dryer running.

 

[dtfd]

In my experience I have needed slightly more "squish" on the first layer than with PLA. I also don't recall my temp setting exactly, but I though the nozzle was at least 230. I've had to stick with slower print speeds for PETG.
Last one, and this might just be the two rolls I have bought, but when I print PETG I have to use my filament dryer. Even fresh out of the bag I was getting crazy stringing. This doesn't really make sense though, but it has been my experience that I can't finish a PETG print without my dryer running.

A dryer might help. The stringing on this filament is absolutely insane. You can see it in the picture I have a string all the way from the edge of the bed from when it did the initial purge and another from when I canceled the print. It literally strings across my whole damn bed. It's a brand new roll, I took it out of its vacuum sealed bag yesterday when I started trying to print with it. I'll try cranking up the temp and putting the speed way down to see if that does it.

Would turning my fans off for the first few layers help? I think there's a way to do that in cura.

 

[yakboyslim]

I run no fans for first layer, then only 30% for all the layers after that for PETG.

 

[AzteCypher]

I ran into similar issues initially with ABS. Using a glue stick on the bed helped a good deal with my ABS prints sticking.

If you ever print in ABS, I recommend watching this video as this was a game changer for me. I don't have to use an enclosure for ABS anymore either.

 

[Roald]

Okay 3D print bros. It's time for everyone's favorite game, what's the newbie doing wrong?

I've been cranking out prints with PLA since I got my printer last week. I just got some PETG (inland PETG) and I've been trying to print a calibration cube just to get the setting rights. I've had 7 prints fail right at the start. I started with the nozzle temp at 230, bed temp at 80. I've stepped down nozzle temp 5 degrees all the way down to 215 (below what's recommended). I tried bed temp at 80, 70, and 85. I tried printing with a skirt, and then a brim. I dropped the print speed from 60 mm/s to 50 mm/s. I get the same result every single time, the PETG just flows out of the nozzle on its own, doesn't stick to the bed, or just sticks to itself at the wrong place and causes a mess. I checked my bed leveling at 80 and use the auto-level before every test. Each print has ended up looking like this. This was supposed to be a calibration CUBE.


View attachment 268161

Any ideas on what I should be doing to correct this? Should I keep dropping my nozzle temp, I'm already 10 degrees below the minimum recommended. Should I use something like hairspray or painters tape on the bed?

This appears to be under-extrusion and z height.
Stringing could be an issue of wet filament, or too high of a nozzle temp, or retraction settings. Since you're already 10 under the recommended temp, go back to whatever the median temp is. And I suspect then you're still under extruding. Once your e-steps/flow is correct then you can tune for z-height. Do not attempt to fix adhesion solely with z-height. Z-height is the last variable once you know e-steps and flow is correct. ESPECIALLY if you're attempting to print anything with reasonable geometric accuracy.


There are so many co-dependent variables in 3d printing. The right way to do it would be to calibrate all settings/configuration for every SPOOL. That's right not every brand or color, but each individual spool.
However, depending on your tolerance for finished product and your printers overall ability this may not be needed. I've managed to do well to calibrate once for a specific brand and color and from spool to spool things have held up well.

Use this guide:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Minimally you should be doing the Extruder E-steps calibration, First layer, slicer flow, temp tune, and retraction tuning.
As for z-height, maybe you already have feeler gauges for doing spark plug work? A proper feeler gauge is a tremendous help. Your Z-height should be lower/smaller than whatever your initial layer height is. Which is a custom variable based on your needs for a particular print. For example. In Cura I typically will use a .4 nozzle with .16 layer height. Then my initial layer height is .25 with a 120% flow rate for the first layer. I also bump the temp about 5-10 over whatever I've found my ideal print temp to be for that specific filament.

I also highly recommend checking out the 3d printing subreddit r/3dprinting

 

[dtfd]

This appears to be under-extrusion and z height.
Stringing could be an issue of wet filament, or too high of a nozzle temp, or retraction settings. Since you're already 10 under the recommended temp, go back to whatever the median temp is. And I suspect then you're still under extruding. Once your e-steps/flow is correct then you can tune for z-height. Do not attempt to fix adhesion solely with z-height. Z-height is the last variable once you know e-steps and flow is correct. ESPECIALLY if you're attempting to print anything with reasonable geometric accuracy.


There are so many co-dependent variables in 3d printing. The right way to do it would be to calibrate all settings/configuration for every SPOOL. That's right not every brand or color, but each individual spool.
However, depending on your tolerance for finished product and your printers overall ability this may not be needed. I've managed to do well to calibrate once for a specific brand and color and from spool to spool things have held up well.

Use this guide:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Minimally you should be doing the Extruder E-steps calibration, First layer, slicer flow, temp tune, and retraction tuning.
As for z-height, maybe you already have feeler gauges for doing spark plug work? A proper feeler gauge is a tremendous help. Your Z-height should be lower/smaller than whatever your initial layer height is. Which is a custom variable based on your needs for a particular print. For example. In Cura I typically will use a .4 nozzle with .16 layer height. Then my initial layer height is .25 with a 120% flow rate for the first layer. I also bump the temp about 5-10 over whatever I've found my ideal print temp to be for that specific filament.

I also highly recommend checking out the 3d printing subreddit r/3dprinting

I moved the temp back to 230 and adjusted my z-offset by heating up my bed to 80 and using a piece of paper just looking for loose contact. I also got some glue sticks and used that on the bed before printing. I turned the fans off for the first 4 layers and changed my layer height to .2 (from .16) At first it looked hopeful and then...same thing happened. I haven't yet changed the initial layer height and flow rate I will try that as well. At this point I'm thinking the filament itself may also be the problem. I ordered a filament dryer to see if that's going to help. I also got other spools of PETG (one from another company) to see if I have better luck with those. If I do I'll know it has to be the filament itself.