2015 GTI problem child

[Zer0DazE]

Pulled the Neuspeed PM off this morning and started installing the JB1. Initial impression during the install... the case material and 1980's plugs make the unit feel cheap. The harness with OEM style plugs is nicely done though.

The install went without issue until I started to zip tie wires out of the way. I found that the wires to the pressure sensor plug had been touching the fan on the previous owners car. No biggie, except that the clip on the OEM harness broke (ham-fisted me). Now I have to order a repining tool and clip.

With the wires repaired, and the OEM harness secured with electrical tape until my new tool shows up, I moved on to securing the JB1 unit in the engine bay. Easier said than done. The giant parallel port plug gets in the way, and makes it difficult to install in a position where you can easily access the serial port.

All in all the install was pain, but 1/2 of that wasn't the JB1's fault. I like that the unit is adjustable for, I don't like the use of 30 year old plugs and that the unit rattles around in the supplied case. It looks like the new units are shipping in a nicer enclosure, and with a new wire harness. I will have to upgrade this one sometime in the future.

 

[Zer0DazE]

Update.
As others have reported, power delivery with the JB1 if smooth, and is a definite improvement over the Neuspeed PM. The unit I have being used has spent some time in an engine bay, and there are signs of corrosion on the plugs. I will be upgrading the case to the all weather case.

As for the broken plug, I managed to get that replaced yesterday. I picked up this tool from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57780-...rd_wg=rxAYA&psc=1&refRID=QW3B74AJXHQPAWZ7GWGH
It works great with the female connectors, but the pins are too short to use on the male connectors. I will need to come up with a Plan B to depin the JB1 connector so I can shrink wrap the damaged wires. I am thinking I can put a caliper on this tool and rework a set of tweezers or just use some flat spring steel to make the tool.

Another thing I noticed the other day is that my gauges are no longer sweeping when I power the car on, and my headlights made an odd flash when I started the engine yesterday. I'm going to have to do some googling to see if it's a common issue.

Edit:
Almost forgot. So to get at the plug I went from under the car. I use the reinforced section of the pinch weld to support the car on jackstands and made an adapter to jack from right next to it on the pinch. I know it's not ideal, but has been working... been working is the important part of that statement. I ended up with a little bend in the pinch weld were I jacked the car up from yesterday. It straightened out easy enough, but that led me to purchase the ECS jack point adapter kit. That should solve the issue of jack points and support points.

Also, I will never try to access that plug from the top again. Getting at it from under the car is so much easier.

 

[Zer0DazE]

Ok, so when buying used parts it is a really good idea to inspect them thoroughly before installing them. To rehash a previous post in this thread, I did not do this when installing a used JB1. While I was zip tying the wire loom to the OEM loom and making sure everything was tucked away I noticed that the wires going to the OEM MAP sensor plug had been chewed through by the fan.

Anyone who has installed on of these is probably familiar with that wire, how much slack it has, and how close it is to the fan. As a short term fix I wrapped the wires and the loom in e-tape until I had the tool and time to release the pins for a proper fix.

So I ordered a de-pinning tool from Amazon. As mentioned it worked great on the female connectors, but the tines were too short for male connectors. I refuse to buy an expensive 1 trick pony tool, so I made one.

Autozone has item 25341 Mini-Blade Feeler Gauge for $3. I put a dial caliper on the tool from Amazon to get the width and height. The height was .018" so I took that gauge out and cut it down the middle with a dremel. Then I chucked up a small stone grinding wheel in my drill press and set it to the slowest speed. After a total of about 30 min from start to finish I had this.

I then put a small piece of metal between them so they would be seperated properly and had a handle to grip. Then I tack welded it all together. Works great!

So here is what your wires will look like if you don't keep your wire loom tied up.

De-pinned, properly repaired, and re-pinned harness

And zip tied up so it won't contact the fan blade

edit:
A pic of the completed tool. It may not be pretty, but it does what I need it to.

 

[Diggs24]

Well done. I twist tied (so I could remove on the side of the road if needed) the wires to that black/white wire right behind it.

 

[Zer0DazE]

Christmas made better by Cobb Tuning.

 

[Zer0DazE]

Got off duty tonight and spent an hour or so in the garage. AvinUSA sent me an update for my head unit. It would occasionally give me horizontal lines across the screen that wouldn't go away until I turned the car off for 10 min or so.

After getting that update done I hooked up my battery charger and plugged in the Cobb AP. The initial backup and flash took a little over 30 minutes. Once it finished up the car fired right up.

I am a big fan of the AP. A 1 time fee gets you all the OTS tunes, updates, and a fantastic piece of hardware. It can read and clear codes like a VAG cable, though you can't change values like you can with VCDS (hint hint Cobb), it data logs, and it functions as a gauge/display for multiple engine parameters.

If the AP could make changes like VCDS, even the most basic like disabling wheel hop, defeat traction control, or other basic changes that people make using VCDS it would be an "out of the park" home run. In the mean time I would still consider it the best bang for the buck flash tuning solution. The price is on par with the competition, but with the added functionality mentioned earlier. Lets call it a tipple with an RBI while others are making base hits.

 

[Zer0DazE]

So after 2 days it looks like I am going to need an LSD to go along with that new clutch. So far the Cobb OTS stage 1 gets a big thumbs up. I wouldn't mind seeing a low torque map though. I don't want it for saving the OEM clutch so much as making it more winter weather (and skinny snow tire) friendly.

 

[Zer0DazE]

It's been a couple weeks with the Cobb Stage 1 flash. I have run the NPM and the JB1, and this is worth the extra money. Power delivery is smooth, and the AP continues to be the coolest flash, data logging, and display device.

I am excited to see what functionality they add with later updates. I have been assured that a OTS IS38 tune will be available in the future... my wife is not happy about this. In a "hostile negotiation" I promised to cover a trip to Florence and Rome, and after that I will be free to make whatever mods I want. I was also able to negotiate a birthday (March) clutch upgrade in the deal.

Now that the holidays and the dealing with my disfunctional family (not that I am any more functional then they are) is finished, and I have a few days off, I spent a day in the shop. It was mid 40's today, and I took advantage of it. I spent some time shooting, cleaning the shop, assembling some new tools, and emptying beer cans. While I was puttering around it occurred to me that I hadn't installed my new shift knob yet.

I managed to remove the original without destroying the retaining clip with the use of a heat gun and some patients. The new knob installed easy enough though it didn't come with anything to secure the boot to the new knob base. I tried a 8"ish zip tie, but the female end was too big and I could see it and feel it through the boot. The idea of using metal tie wire, but that didn't work like I wanted. What I went with were 2 small zip ties. The female ends on those are small enough that I couldn't see or feel them, and with 2 of them I could get all the way around the base. It worked well.

Sorry for the wordy post... here's pics.

and a shot with the larger touch screen

The flash kinda washed things out a bit.
Since the picture I have turned the knob base a little more clockwise. With the OCD I couldn't let the Cobb logo be off center.

 

[Diggs24]

Looking good. Time to update that sig.

 

[Zer0DazE]

Progress has been slower than I would like, but the wife wants to build a new house and apparently that is more important that going fast. Someone has to get her priorities straight.

I did get in on the Boomba shift adapter. The install was as easy as they say, and the throws are significantly reduced. Something I didn't expect was the increase in shift effort, but it makes sense. After a few shifts I forgot all about the increased effort. Shifts are short, tight, and have a very positive engagement feel. The part is heavy and well machined, so longevity shouldn't be an issue. I would call it a great product with an excellent price.

 

[Zer0DazE]

Earlier this summer the car developed a rattling noise that would come from the front passenger side of the car. It could be heard at a stand still or while moving and turning the steering wheel.

I jacked it up last month, pulled the wheels, checked for loose parts, checked the ball joints, and then pulled the brakes apart and cleaned things up. Nothing was loose and I didn't see anything out of place.

Over the summer the noise has gotten progressively worse, and I started getting an occasional clunk/knock when I would make a sharp turn (like pulling into a parking spot). Since I didn't replace the strut mounts and bearings when I installed the lowering springs last year I figured they probably gave up the ghost. I decided I should probably upgrade if I am replacing parts, so I ordered the 034 upper mounts and replacement bearings for both sides.

Last night a couple of friends came over to watch me work and help drink my beer. When I pulled the passenger side strut assembly I found that the bearing was no longer seated in the upper mount. The bearing had slipped out of the mount and turned about 45*. My assistant beer drinks, who moonlight by day as mechanics, and I were all scratching our heads. One of them was there when the parts went in the car, and we know they went in properly. There were no issues for about a year, and then I started getting the rattle.

So, with the problem identified, though the reason was a mystery, I proceeded to replace the upper mounts and bearings on both sides. With the car back on the ground and fired up I had no rattle. Satisfied with that I finished that job I moved on to emptying beer bottles.

This morning I had a chance to drive the car 30 or so miles. No rattles and no noticeable harshness or noise from the 034 mounts. Thumbs up to the guys at 034 for another great product, and crazy fast shipping.

 

[Zer0DazE]

New sneakers for the spring.

They are an 8.5" wide Option Lab wheel with a 235/40 tire. I probably should have gone with either and 8" or a 245 with the 8.5. The tires are stretched a little more than I would like, and the lip is screaming "curb me".

The old wheels had snows mounted on them last fall after one of them was curb rashed. I did get lucky and found a sweetheart of a deal on 18" snows last year.

 

[BronxBomber]

looks good. I was actually looking at these same wheels, but was concerned about the weight. Trying to find a wheel that looks good to me, won't break the bank and is relatively light. You can usually pick 2 of these.

 

[Zer0DazE]

After being away from home for 4 months, and having taken care of the majority of my wife's honey-do list I was able to sneak in some shop time. Yesterday afternoon I installed the Invidia catted down pipe. Last year I had the uncatted Circuitworks downpipe and was never totally happy with it. It worked, but the fit was so so, and the drone was unbearable while cruising at 75-80 on the highway.

Thanks to MAPerformance, their 4th of July sale was great, their shipping was fast, and their customer service gets 2 thumbsup.

A quick pic for those who have never seen a downpipe before

Install did require me to get the car in their air a little higher than removing the OEM unit. With the mounting bracket I needed to get the pipe a little more vertical to clear the steering rack. A lift would have made life a little easier.

Sound? Meh, it sounds like a downpipe on a stock exhaust GTI. I didn't drive it a lot, but did cruise it around in the 2200-2500 RPM range and the drone was minimal. I will update after a few weeks. In the future I will probably pick up the matching Invidia catback to finish off the exhaust.

Today it is supposed to be nice, and I have a friend's UTV in the shop for CV boots. While I have a second set of hands available I may install the eBay Magic intercooler.

 

[Zer0DazE]

So I can't believe the entire front end has to come off to check the washer fluid level, but while I was in there I figured I would install the intercooler as well.

The Magic intercooler needed a little timing on the upper lugs, and then on the top where the radiator clips in. The opening wasn't big enough for the clip to fit through, and was bottoming out on the radiator before it fully locked. Simple fixes. The ACE Hardware brackets someone posted worked great.

I have some maintenance I need to take care of, like flushing the brake fluid and some other small stuff. I'm not looking forward to it because it's boring, but it does give me a reason to buy a nice brake bleeding tool.

And a shot of the UTV that is bigger than my car and taking up a bunch of space in my shop.