Official DIY TTRS Clutch Kit

[uberdot]

I’ve had this clutch for a little over a year. Fine clutch, holds power, heavy pedal, yadda yadda.

Has anyone here experienced, or have heard of anyone else experiencing crank walk with these? The heavier pedal effort thing is unnerving in that it’s the heavier, more solid pressure plates that are the culprit behind shearing these wimpy bearings.

 

[emg]

Hi, what is the max torque for DIY TTRS clutch?

 

[blaqsheep]

Hi, what is the max torque for DIY TTRS clutch?

Around 400 ft-lb. The weakest link in the kit is the TDI clutch disc, mine started to slip. I would skip the TDI disc and go for the Sachs SRE disc or 4 puck if you plan on going Stage 2 and up.

 

[emg]

I have DIY TTRS cluch and only 360 ft lb (with future target to 380 ft lb) and recently it happened that when changing gears, the pedal came back much slower. I am not convinced that it slipped, there was no burning smell but, the change was "slow" and peadl came back much slower tha usual. Any idea? Can it be the pump under the clutch pedal?

 

[ATR]

I have DIY TTRS cluch and only 360 ft lb (with future target to 380 ft lb) and recently it happened that when changing gears, the pedal came back much slower. I am not convinced that it slipped, there was no burning smell but, the change was "slow" and peadl came back much slower tha usual. Any idea? Can it be the pump under the clutch pedal?

Did you ever remove the clutch delay valve?

 

[emg]

Did you ever remove the clutch delay valve?

no - could that be the reason?
I thought maybe it would be a matter of the end of the clutch disc or the pump under the pedal.
When the car cooled down everything returned to normal. It happened when car received is38 and I tried to check the "times" (second try).

 

[ATR]

no - could that be the reason?
I thought maybe it would be a matter of the end of the clutch disc or the pump under the pedal.
When the car cooled down everything returned to normal. It happened when car received is38 and I tried to check the "times" (second try).

Check this thread out...

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...-wonder-mod-oem-bleeder-delay-removal.326890/
It will definitely make a big difference in clutch uptake ?

 

[blaqsheep]

Remove the delay valve and make sure your clutch is bled correctly.

 

[Boje]

Hoping someone might be able to clarify what I need here – I've read all 47 pages of this thread carefully but remain more than a little confused. My clutch started slipping the day I went from JB4 to EQT OTS Stage 2 93oct tune (with full bolt-ons), so looking to upgrade – I'm at 97k miles, so will be replacing the flywheel also.

My main question is whether or not the DIY TTRS kit will actually work for me – I don't know what my car's torque figure is, but EQT's site suggests that a stock GTI on 91oct on their Stage 1 tune makes around 390lb/ft, so I'm guessing with their Stage 2 / 93oct tune, I'll want a clutch rated for decently over 400lb/ft... I've seen both 407lb/ft and 480lb/ft listed as the torque capacity for this DIY TTRS clutch, depending (I think?) on which pressure plate you get. Is that correct, that there is a version of this kit that can reliably hold 480lb/ft...?

Or, is the bottom line here that I need to get the RSR kit (480lb/ft) to make sure it holds? My understanding is that the TTRS kit would run me a little under $600 (excluding flywheel), and the RSR kit (including hardware and fluid service kit and excluding flywheel) would run me around $1300... so I'd be saving a huge amount if the TTRS kit will hold EQT Stage 2 93oct torque, but wasting $600 + labor if it doesn't and I have to replace it again in a few months...

My apologies for asking what may be very obvious questions here... I've found this thread almost as confusing as it is informative ? Massive thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

 

[blaqsheep]

Hoping someone might be able to clarify what I need here – I've read all 47 pages of this thread carefully but remain more than a little confused. My clutch started slipping the day I went from JB4 to EQT OTS Stage 2 93oct tune (with full bolt-ons), so looking to upgrade – I'm at 97k miles, so will be replacing the flywheel also.

Shortfall of the "original" TTRS kit is the clutch disc, which is a Euro TDI disc - same one offered in the RSR kit. I don't think it'll hold up Stage 2 and beyond. That's what the RSR Hybrid kit is for, and it's priced at $1,600 - which is the same the Southbend Stage 3 Daily kit which comes highly recommended.

Having gone the TTRS kit route, I am experiencing slip and will be going with the Sachs SRE kit (Sachs SRE pressure plate and full organic disc).

If you do not drive in bumper to bumper traffic, I would even go as far as getting the Sachs 4 puck sintered disc instead of the organic. The cost including a new flywheel is around $1,000 with lifetime warranty through FCP Euro.

The part list below is based on MK7/7.5 GTI's, mine being a 2018.

Qty	Part Name	Part Number
1	VW Clutch Disc - Sachs Performance (Full face organic)	881864999502
1	VW Clutch Disc - Sachs Performance (4 puck sintered)	881864999505
1	Audi VW Pressure Plate Sachs Performance	883082001422
1	VW Clutch Release Bearing	0A5141671N
6	Audi VW Pressure Plate Bolt	N90320701
1	VW Flywheel - Sachs	06J105266AL

 

[Boje]

@blaqsheep fantastic info, thank you. Blew my hopes of a budget clutch setup out of the water but that wasn't unexpected... I get out on the road a lot but I do live in NYC, so spend a decent amount of time in traffic – I've never for a second wished I had an automatic, but I guess that could change if the pedal effort was significantly increased, long-term, which I'm guessing from your comment would be the case with the Sachs 4 puck disc.

I'll look into putting together the Sachs kit with the organic disc, then – $1000 seems pretty good for the whole setup including the flywheel. I'm assuming FCP don't sell it as a kit, and that I'll need to put it together myself so thanks a million for the part numbers, that's super helpful. I presume this setup will have a slightly stiffer pedal than the TTRS kit, but still be dailyable?

I'm also guessing part numbers would all be the same for my car, a 2015 PP GTI...

 

[blaqsheep]

Pedal effort will indeed be stiffer due to the pressure plate. It will be stiff but will get better with break in. If you have a chance to drive a stock MK7 you will laugh afterwards at how soft the stock clutch is.

If you're going to be in a lot of stop and go traffic then maybe stick to the organic disc. The 4 puck grab harder will hold more torque but is more orientated towards a race clutch, not something most would want in a daily driver.

FCP sells the pressure plate and disc as a kit but still show up as individual part numbers, so there is no difference between getting them separately cost wise. The organic disc will make for a good addition to a daily driven car.

Part numbers should be the same, but double check to confirm. Also if it's not obvious to anyone reading the above parts list, you choose 1 of the 2 clutch discs.

 

[WhyNotZoidberg?]

Shortfall of the "original" TTRS kit is the clutch disc, which is a Euro TDI disc - same one offered in the RSR kit. I don't think it'll hold up Stage 2 and beyond. That's what the RSR Hybrid kit is for, and it's priced at $1,600 - which is the same the Southbend Stage 3 Daily kit which comes highly recommended.

You might be right, but from my own personal experience, when I upgraded my clutch to the TTRS, at 40k total miles on car, 20k of stage 2 and at least 15-20k miles of slippage, the OEM clutch disk I removed looked pretty much just like the new one I replaced it with. No discernible wear on it at all, while both the PP and especially the DMFW were definitely in the 'thrashed' category.

As for the pedal feel difference, I'd say it's about 30% increase for the TTRS PP. I also daily a Mk7 TDI, so I have real comparison data, not just "got used to the TTRS PP and it feels normal now".

 

[Boje]

Pedal effort will indeed be stiffer due to the pressure plate. It will be stiff but will get better with break in. If you have a chance to drive a stock MK7 you will laugh afterwards at how soft the stock clutch is.

If you're going to be in a lot of stop and go traffic then maybe stick to the organic disc. The 4 puck grab harder will hold more torque but is more orientated towards a race clutch, not something most would want in a daily driver.

FCP sells the pressure plate and disc as a kit but still show up as individual part numbers, so there is no difference between getting them separately cost wise. The organic disc will make for a good addition to a daily driven car.

Part numbers should be the same, but double check to confirm. Also if it's not obvious to anyone reading the above parts list, you choose 1 of the 2 clutch discs.

Thanks and understood about choosing one of the discs. All of this said, though, it remains a little unclear to me what the torque rating would be with the Sachs organic disc (unless I've missed it somewhere), but I assume it's below, say, 450lb/ft, and therefore a little close for comfort to stage 2 torque levels. Which kind of ends up leading me back to the DKM Stage 3. All-in, it seems it's about $300 more expensive than the Sachs kit, is reportedly every bit as dailyable (twin organic discs), and rated to 660lb/ft, which hopefully would mean I won't have to do the clutch again... Hmm.

I see elsewhere on the forum that you're having your third go at finding a reliable but dailyable clutch – is there a reason you aren't tempted to go DKM Stage 3, other than the fact that you'd have to buy the whole kit a opposed to just a new pressure plate?

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I have noticed recently that the rsr page has added this comparison... the main listing show 480 when first looking at it but that’s only the rating for the previous gens, on the 7s it’s only rated for 380, I would think an aggressive driver could even experience issues at even stage 1 levels.