Did my install over the holiday weekend. Figured it was time to do a few other items (alum subframe, rline dogbone, rs3 bushings, master cylinder brace, fsb, adjustable end links, turbo wrap, and tmd. Also had to swap in the stock downpipe to for yearly inspection.
The install was tough for one guy but doable. I took my time, went by the book and did it all over the course of 3 days. Spent about 3 months planning though so I guess it went pretty quick in retrospect.
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Anyone wanting to tackle this job, make sure you have all the correct tools and repair manual. All box codes aren't the same. You'll need a propane torch or heat gun, 75-80mm blind race puller, various sizes of race/seal installers, dial indicator, bench press, torque wrench just to name a few. Plan to replace almost every bolt you have to take out, especially the aluminum T45's that bolt the case halves together. Get new input/output shaft seals, oring for the selector shaft, shim kit. Do NOT torque the flange bolts into the diff at 33nm as the manual calls for. The diff isn't hardened like the thrust plates are on the stock diff. I'd go maybe 18nm max with blue loctite. Use NEW bolts here. Folks with PP, you'll need a 1/4" drive 6mm Allen with a long extension about 14" to get to the passenger side through the ediff.