Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[flipflp]

You don't NEED two people, true. Having two people is safer. I'm sure you'll post that it isn't safer, so I'll save some time and just say you're 100% wrong.

That second person is just a liability man.

Finally going to use this thread for a personal installation, PSS10s should be here tomorrow I give up on swapping coils and shocks, that's all Hammersticks game.
B8s will be up for sale shortly

 

[GTIfan99]

That second person is just a liability man.

Finally going to use this thread for a personal installation, PSS10s should be here tomorrow I give up on swapping coils and shocks, that's all Hammersticks game.
B8s will be up for sale shortly

PM what you want for the B8's.

 

[flipflp]

PM what you want for the B8's.

PM'd

 

[Hammersticks]

I give up on swapping coils and shocks, that's all Hammersticks game.

For the record I am done with other combos. (Think I have exhausted the list.) Next swap for me would be back to coils. PSS10, Ohlins, etc....I’m good until I start tracking more though.

 

[flipflp]

For the record I am done with other combos. (Think I have exhausted the list.) Next swap for me would be back to coils. PSS10, Ohlins, etc....I’m good until I start tracking more though.

The end of an era!

I definitely went PSS10 for future track duty. I'm sure it won't be a "comfortable" setup but it won't bottom out and I can set ride height for wider wheel/tire combos, those were my biggest wishes. Considering they can be had for ~$1500, the next step up would be something like an Ohlins/Clubsport type of setup which is nearly double.

 

[Hammersticks]

The end of an era!

I definitely went PSS10 for future track duty. I'm sure it won't be a "comfortable" setup but it won't bottom out and I can set ride height for wider wheel/tire combos, those were my biggest wishes. Considering they can be had for ~$1500, the next step up would be something like an Ohlins/Clubsport type of setup which is nearly double.

Yeah pretty hard to beat at that price point. That said, I may have to go full send with my next setup...other priorities right now but we’ll see.
Anyway, enjoy your new setup! That’s awesome.

 

[flipflp]

Yeah pretty hard to beat at that price point. That said, I may have to go full send with my next setup...other priorities right now but we’ll see.
Anyway, enjoy your new setup! That’s awesome.

If you can full send, do it! Definitely couldn't justify spending much more, but I know it pays off in quality/performance.

 

[Acadia18]

Might be a stupid question. Can you tighten\loosen the top strut nut while it is attached to the car? I want to ensure it is torqued to the correct spec. While I don't have any issues the majority of the time, if the wheel is fully turned all the way (say when pulling into a parking space), then turned back about half a turn, I have a slight clunk\pop noise when it gets to that half a turn point. I'd say it only happens at low speeds, but I also never fully turn the wheel as far as it can go at high speeds. Is there something else I should be checking for?

 

[theDoktor]

You MIGHT be able to with one of these: http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/5985711637fe4b588d0de29022addd77. I'm willing to sell mine- I'm done with it. PM me if interested.
It's MUCH easier to do when the struts are out and the springs are still compressed. Even then, without this or a similar tool, properly torquing that nut will be a challenge.
This is assuming you are using OEM strut bearings. Unknown if you are using camber plates- someone with experience with them might chime in.
Assuming you used OEM strut bearings, did you make sure the tab and slot on the outside perimeter of the two bearing sections were aligned before you tightened the nut?

 

[odessa.filez]

Might be a stupid question. Can you tighten\loosen the top strut nut while it is attached to the car? I want to ensure it is torqued to the correct spec. While I don't have any issues the majority of the time, if the wheel is fully turned all the way (say when pulling into a parking space), then turned back about half a turn, I have a slight clunk\pop noise when it gets to that half a turn point. I'd say it only happens at low speeds, but I also never fully turn the wheel as far as it can go at high speeds. Is there something else I should be checking for?

I would think it's possible, but depends on your tools.
I've done it with an impact but I have metal on metal camber plates so targeting a torque spec is kinda irrelevant.
I would think some combo of tools with a torque wrench would work.

 

[odessa.filez]

I would also consider other sources for the noise ...retorque the endlinks with the car on the ground (you can get access to the top fastener by simply cutting the front wheels).

 

[Acadia18]

My thoughts with the top strut nut is kind of in line with that. I used an electric impact to get the nut off & on, so it's most likely not torqued to specific amount. Which is why I wanted to torque it to the correct amount, with the proper tools. Just wasn't sure if it could be done while installed on the car.

The possibility of it being the end link is interesting; my passenger one could potentially be damaged. I used an impact to get the nuts off, and drivers side one came off fine. Passenger's one, the bolt part that goes into the end link just spun and spun with the nut on it. When I finally realized what was happening, I had to use a triple square and wrench to get the nut off.

While those should be torqued to the correct amount, I can try re-torquing them. If that doesn't fix the issue, a new set of end links is only like $50. Can easily replace them.

 

[GTIfan99]

In my experience, clunking is usually end links, squeaking is usually metal on rubber parts with too much play, and rattling is metal on metal vibration. So in the context of struts, clunking is endlinks 99% of the time, but could be rubber piece on spring is gone or moved in the area where springs bind with progressive springs or worn strut mount/bearing. Squeaking is top nut not properly torqued or strut mount/bearing worn out, causing spring to move and squeak against strut mount or rubber on the bottom of spring. Vibration could be anywhere that there was a rubber surface between to metal bits and it's worn out. I'd assume on these cars you're looking a bushing, which might clunk too. Oh, did I mention axles or tie rod ends can cause clunking too? Maybe engine mounts.

Nevermind, it could be anything, sell the car. lol.

But seriously, get it on a lift and look and feel for anything loose. I chased a clunk in the rear end of a 911 and spent a lot of money replacing suspension piece before figuring out it was the axles.

 

[Hammersticks]

Yes, you can tighten the top strut down while it’s installed on the car. Per above you just need the proper tools, and those tools will vary based on your set up. Per my initial post I am not a proponent of air as not to spin the piston. Rather, I use either a pass through socket or angle wrenches to hold the piston in place while turning the nut. I had also purchased an 02 sensor style socket but it doesn’t fit while installed on the car.
With regard to torque, in my experience I have found I simply hit a wall where the nut turns and then it doesn’t. Keep in mind the middle of the strut mount, when fully seated, rests on the lip of the piston. Both of those surfaces are metal, and if you are using hand tools it’s simply not possible to apply enough force to deform either of them. Again, using hand tools, not air.

 

[odessa.filez]

I think the "spinning the rod" thing is a little overblown. No, you don't want to spin it for an hour but I think it's okay to use impact.for removal along with some clamping of rod with channel locks.

You will be 'spinning' that rod, under load for years to come with every turn of the steering wheel.