DIY MIB1 to MIB2 Infotainment Conversion (Part 1)

[aditud]

Anyone willing to part with their OBD2 VAS 5054A+OKI Chip ODIS kit? Would like to buy it. Please PM if so.

 

[Sc629]

Rereading through, it seems as if the first few posts say I won't have Bluetooth after the swap? Can anyone confirm??

 

[Cuzoe]

Short version: You will not lose anything when upgrading from MIB I to II. With the exception of XM Radio if you are in the US and buy a head unit from outside of the US as they don't have XM.

Long version: If the unit that you install already had Bluetooth activated (and I'm not sure that any of them did not) then you will have Bluetooth when you install it. You will also have anything else that was activated on that that unit (nav, voice control, etc). However, you will not have sound as soon as component protection kicks in. This may not happen on the 1st few power-ups so you should be able to verify the head unit actually works before component protection kills your sound.

The removal of component protection, which ties the head unit to your car will re enable sound and disable all those other functions. However, the dealer will then pull the activation codes that were included with your car and enable them on your new unit.

Keep in mind that app connect (Android Auto/CarPlay) was not available on 2015s and thus far no one has reported having it successfully activated at the dealer, even with an activation code purchased from overseas. Also keep in mind I'm only referring to NAR, I can't say anything about ROW but the information is probably there if you dig enough.

The gentleman that people have had help them with activation, Jack, can remove component protection and activate all of the functions that your new head unit is capable of. This requires purchasing the cable that has been mentioned in the last few posts. You will not require a visit to the dealer if you utilize his services.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[George Ab]

Quote:
Originally Posted by aameghoo
George, could you go into a little more detail of what you did for this? The MIB2 fender amp is the biggest thing holding me back from doing the conversion right now. Ideally, it would be nice to not have to worry about sourcing a new amp and doing an after-market solution instead for even better sound.

As I understand, you can do some coding to have the speakers powered from the headunit instead of the fender amp. I made a diagram of what I imagined what you did, is that correct? If it is, 2 questions:
1. How did you connect the existing speaker wires coming out of the fender amp to the alpine amp? Did you just cut the wires at the fender amp connector then terminate them into the alpine amp or did you do something else?
2. Did you notice a decrease or increase in sound quality going from the “before” step to the “after” step without the DSP
Thanks!

When I did my MIB2 conversion I changed the amplifier. The MIB2 amplifier sounds better than the MIB1 amplifier. The improvement is not subtle.

Later, I decided to purchase new speakers and add DSP and amplifier. I made the software change to headunit, (info for doing here: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29694) got a connector and ran wires to DSP under passenger seat, then more wires to the amplifier under driver’s seat. Power from battery with large inline fuse to amplifier. Ran all new speaker wires and replaced speakers. I did tie into existing wires before door connector and after door connector inside door. The front speakers have dual voice coils so two amplifier channels are used both 2 ohms so I guess you could wire in series and use one channel of amplification, but something to consider. Finding space for crossovers and mounting is also a challenge. I had at least 100 hours of labor into this project. Yes, it sounds great; however, the Fender system always sounds outstanding. It is a commitment and not sure if I can recommend.

Last weekend I got a dead battery. It was from the DSP getting triggered on from some noise (not sure) and then turning amp on. So right now I removed fuse going to unit until I can get it sorted. So right now I am not real happy, but it shouldn’t be too hard to fix.

I was able to sell my MIB1 amplifier which helped with cost of MIB2 amplifier. When I upgraded system I then sold the MIB2 amplifier, fender speakers, and subwoofer.

Lastly, without DSP with external subwoofer control you will lose your subwoofer control that you currently have in headunit.


On your second question, I noticed improvement, but the Focal speakers I put in had a lot to do with that. I first went without a DSP, but needed subwoofer control as I like to change dependent on type of music I am listening to. For DSP I have time delays dialed in which really helps with imaging. I have not done any attenuation at different frequencies, I will dial that in later, but I am pretty happy with the sound now.

 

[Cuzoe]

Received one of the two $30 eBay units I ordered. It will be returned to sender tomorrow. Minor scuffs on the face plate which I didn't take a picture of, not a big deal because I've only seen the front of my current unit once, when I pulled it out to install the Helix Soundbox.

But as you can see in the pictures this unit has been wet. I do not like my electronics wet. And I'm certainly not about to plug this into my vehicle. I ordered two from the same seller but this has shaken my confidence. I'm currently on the hunt for another unit, instead of doing my homework, haha.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[aditud]

Received one of the two $30 eBay units I ordered. It will be returned to sender tomorrow. Minor scuffs on the face plate which I didn't take a picture of, not a big deal because I've only seen the front of my current unit once, when I pulled it out to install the Helix Soundbox.

But as you can see in the pictures this unit has been wet.

So, this is surreal. I think I've only read one account where someone ended up with a functioning unit from that eBay seller. The others all had issues and returned them. I counted at least six of these $30 units being returned just by people on this forum (and there was hearsay about others). How can so many of them "happen" to be defective? I suspect they are selling units that weren't salvaged but rather units that were swapped out because they had issues. Is that even legal?

 

[lolmx]

I though ill share my experience with this retro fit. Everything is working great atm, have not ordered app-connect yet as i havent had a chance to go to the dealer yet but the new headunit is sooo much better. Not laggy at all and quite fast.

But ill share my part numbers as my headunit was 100% plug and play not adaptor harness and nothing else needed. only had to change the plastic around the connector for the screen (came with my screen so was just a unclip and put the blue connector on my car) Headunit its self was plug n play as well. Rear cam works as well as BT and nav.

My car came with a Panasonic unit: 5G0 035 846 A Made in Czech Republic
replaced with a Delphi unit: 3Q0 035 846 Made in Portugal

As for the screens car came it: 5G0 919 605 D Made in China
Replaced with: 3G0 919 605 D Made in Czech Republic

My car already had the USB aux plug in the little cubby so that didnt need to be changed.

All my components came from the same 2016 GTI wreck (my car is a dec 2014 MY15), Part numbers are a bit different to you guys (i guess there different frequency radios since im in Australia) or maybe is a different unit bc it had the connections ready for the usb and aux already? idk

But have to say awesome upgrade

 

[tylerf0606]

So, this is surreal. I think I've only read one account where someone ended up with a functioning unit from that eBay seller. The others all had issues and returned them. I counted at least six of these $30 units being returned just by people on this forum (and there was hearsay about others). How can so many of them "happen" to be defective? I suspect they are selling units that weren't salvaged but rather units that were swapped out because they had issues. Is that even legal?

I paid $30 on eBay for my infotainment and it's been working beautifully; no freezing or random restarts *knock on wood*

It sounds like it's very hit or miss when you're buying items like this on eBay.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

[sprinks]

So, this is surreal. I think I've only read one account where someone ended up with a functioning unit from that eBay seller. The others all had issues and returned them. I counted at least six of these $30 units being returned just by people on this forum (and there was hearsay about others). How can so many of them "happen" to be defective? I suspect they are selling units that weren't salvaged but rather units that were swapped out because they had issues. Is that even legal?

I have 2 units, with one bought from ebay, and one from another user on here (who i believe also sourced from ebay). It's hit or miss with ebay because they're sold "as-is" typically with the only things being checked while they're sorted for resale is "do they power on, yes or no?" and that's enough to pass for functional. As with all purchases it's "buyer beware" when you're getting a great deal.

 

[aditud]

I have 2 units, with one bought from ebay, and one from another user on here (who i believe also sourced from ebay). It's hit or miss with ebay because they're sold "as-is" typically with the only things being checked while they're sorted for resale is "do they power on, yes or no?" and that's enough to pass for functional. As with all purchases it's "buyer beware" when you're getting a great deal.

I think this is more serious than that. Too many units (from the same seller) turned out to be defective. There's no way these were all pulled from wrecked cars and deemed otherwise functional; some of them must be written off units (pulled out and thrown away as defective). It's likely the seller knows that too, which may explain the low price (much lower, compared to others). It's psychology 101: if you pay $150 for a unit and when you put it in you see it's fried, you get pissed (despite getting the refund, you still need to return it, wait for your refund, buy another unit etc). But for $30 a piece, people feel more inclined to keep trying.

I wonder what VWoA would think of an eBay seller knowingly selling defective (and probably written off) VW electronics. Who supplies them to this seller? That'd be also interesting to know. They should be sourcing them for what, $10 or $15 a piece (or free)? That's already fishy, right there.

 

[aditud]

I was talking to Don at Technical Retrofit. He mentioned I need the ODIS cable and then he can remote in and do his thing.

Just curious, is this guy able to do what Jack does? If so, has anyone used Don instead of Jack (to remove CP's, put in FeC's and stuff)? As Jack's fee seems to have gone up from 200eur to 300eur, it's good to know if there's any viable alternative out there.

 

[George Ab]

Just curious, is this guy able to do what Jack does? If so, has anyone used Don instead of Jack (to remove CP's, put in FeC's and stuff)? As Jack's fee seems to have gone up from 200eur to 300eur, it's good to know if there's any viable alternative out there.

Not sure if the is an accurate representation of fees from mentioned individual. My charge for installation was 80[FONT=&quot]€[/FONT]. I had previously purchased the Car Connect activation code for $240.



I find it likely that the fee cited above is for the purchase of the Car Connect activation code thru the independent from erWin (VW online vehicle diagnostic and reprogramming database called Fazik) along with charge for installation.

 

[Cuzoe]

Not sure if the is an accurate representation of fees from mentioned individual. My charge for installation was 80[FONT=&quot]€[/FONT]. I had previously purchased the Car Connect activation code for $240.

Are you saying that you had the person we keep mentioning do your activation using the code you had previously purchased?

My dealership claims they have done component protection removal before so hopefully that goes smoothly along with reactivation of the features I currently have. My intention was to reach out to him about activating app connect only. I have the code with pin on hand but wasn't sure if he needed it.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[aditud]

Not sure if the is an accurate representation of fees from mentioned individual. My charge for installation was 80[FONT=&quot]€[/FONT]. I had previously purchased the Car Connect activation code for $240.



I find it likely that the fee cited above is for the purchase of the Car Connect activation code thru the independent from erWin (VW online vehicle diagnostic and reprogramming database called Fazik) along with charge for installation.

You are correct, I didn't mean it that way. If the activation code alone is 200eur, charging 100eur for everything else (like CP removal, for example) and making sure it all works is definitely not excessive.

 

[tylerf0606]

Just curious, is this guy able to do what Jack does? If so, has anyone used Don instead of Jack (to remove CP's, put in FeC's and stuff)? As Jack's fee seems to have gone up from 200eur to 300eur, it's good to know if there's any viable alternative out there.

Don took too long to get back to me. The day after Jack got me all sorted, Don finally responded.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk