It's been about 2 weeks after my install... Cleaned up all the coolant spillage and did not find any leaks... However, I am smelling oil vapors when running the fresh air vent... Both oil lines on the turbo were clean and dry... Guessing breather/PCV hose... Removed the single bolt and reseated it... Still smells... Anyone else have the issue? FYI, rear main seal was also clean and dry...
7
IS20 Instalation Guide (1.8t)
- Thread starter MeltedSolid
- Start date
Maybe someone can help me with this, as I can't seem to find the relevant information anywhere.
I have a 2015 Golf Launch Editionthat I installed the IS20 in, and it's been overboosting when using map 6 on my JB4. It's kind of bizzare, when using it as a boost adder in map 2, 3, or 6, everything works great. As soon as I switch it over to targeted boost, it will overboost. So after George and I went through troubleshooting why it might be doing this, we decided I should try to adjust the wastegate actuator.
The issue is, I can't find any information that matches my platform. I used my friends VCDS the other day, and it seems that my options are not the same as anyone else's. I can't find where to read the actuator position and don't know how to find out what the correct voltage should be when it is open and closed.
The options I have are:
-First adaptation of charge pressure actuator, which passes
-an actuator beginning and end position test, which stops for "safety reasons"
-and a couple other options that don't seem to be what I need.
Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 2015 Golf Launch Editionthat I installed the IS20 in, and it's been overboosting when using map 6 on my JB4. It's kind of bizzare, when using it as a boost adder in map 2, 3, or 6, everything works great. As soon as I switch it over to targeted boost, it will overboost. So after George and I went through troubleshooting why it might be doing this, we decided I should try to adjust the wastegate actuator.
The issue is, I can't find any information that matches my platform. I used my friends VCDS the other day, and it seems that my options are not the same as anyone else's. I can't find where to read the actuator position and don't know how to find out what the correct voltage should be when it is open and closed.
The options I have are:
-First adaptation of charge pressure actuator, which passes
-an actuator beginning and end position test, which stops for "safety reasons"
-and a couple other options that don't seem to be what I need.
Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks!
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
-First adaptation of charge pressure actuator, which passes
What is the voltage of the actuator when you run this test?
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
With the car running, this is what mine is.
Run that same test with it running and if the voltage in't around 3.6V then adjust the rod until it is. Run the test with the car on until it shows 3.6V. Worked for me.
Run that same test with it running and if the voltage in't around 3.6V then adjust the rod until it is. Run the test with the car on until it shows 3.6V. Worked for me.
Faceman
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Long Island
- Car(s)
- '17 GSW 4Mo
How my shop does it:
How my shop does it:
Damn near took everything off... Was that a new IS20, or did you ceramic coat the turbine side?
I have a couple questions after reading this thread:
-this oil return line, why can't you pull it off the turbo side instead?
-on AWD cars can the DP just be loosened and pushed out of the way?
-will the IS20 run on a bone stock car, or is it unhappy at lower RPMs? Can the dealer tell?
-this oil return line, why can't you pull it off the turbo side instead?
-on AWD cars can the DP just be loosened and pushed out of the way?
-will the IS20 run on a bone stock car, or is it unhappy at lower RPMs? Can the dealer tell?
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
1. If you can do it that way go for it. Take it off either side, whatever works. Good luck.
2. Yes.
3. Unless you take it in for service for a turbo issue why would they care? It'll be covered by a heat shield.
Faceman
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Long Island
- Car(s)
- '17 GSW 4Mo
New IS38.
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
With the car running, this is what mine is.
Run that same test with it running and if the voltage in't around 3.6V then adjust the rod until it is. Run the test with the car on until it shows 3.6V. Worked for me.
does it only work correctly at 3.6v? or is there a window of values that are within normal limits?
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
which shop in Long Island?
Faceman
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Long Island
- Car(s)
- '17 GSW 4Mo
Elite in Farmingdale.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Apparently 3.5-3.58.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43144
No one has any issues at 3.6V, Tomioka, IS38 or otherwise.
tplociniak
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- NEPA
- Car(s)
- 2017 Alltrack SEL
If you are going to take it off the turbo, you will probably need to remove it from the studs and get it to the side to access the retaining bolt easier, then put it back on the studs and secure it so you can work the oil line out of the turbo. That would be my advice when trying it that way. I removed it from the block, from under the car, and it was a super big pain, other guys with AWD seem to have an easier time removing the turbo from the studs and then accessing that oil line from the top side.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
If you take the bolt out of the block for that line and then take turbo off the studs and push it back and forth towards firewall it helps the line wiggle out a bit so you can fit a flathead under it so you can then pop it out.