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Eurodyne Updates

613B6

613B6

Ready to race!
Location
Ottawa
Why waste your time with hpfp when you can go MPI. This isn't a MK5, we have the ECU and the ability to do this OEM. Take advantage of it and make some rod snapping power.
 
Diggs24

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
613B6 said:
Why waste your time with hpfp when you can go MPI. This isn't a MK5, we have the ECU and the ability to do this OEM. Take advantage of it and make some rod snapping power.
Click to expand...

Seems a bit overkill on an IS38, no? I bought my hpfp internals for $270 on ebay, a $40 bearing puller and it was all done. $310 vs what is MPI costing nowadays? $800+ and is that easily done DIY? So add labor on top.

Can the lpfp support that much fueling? Wouldn't that also need an upgrade?
 
613B6

613B6

Ready to race!
Location
Ottawa
Diggs24 said:
Seems a bit overkill on an IS38, no? I bought my hpfp internals for $270 on ebay, a $40 bearing puller and it was all done. $310 vs what is MPI costing nowadays? $800+ and is that easily done DIY? So add labor on top.

Can the lpfp support that much fueling? Wouldn't that also need an upgrade?
Click to expand...

I was speaking more towards big turbo stuff however you cant go full E85 on an IS38 without full fueling as well. And who wants to blend all the time? You would need a tune (or at least change the e content info and timing slider) for every blend with eurodyne on top of that. We all know as options become cheaper for turbos, why waste time on that when you can do it right the first time and have room to grow. I guess IMO, eBay parts that wont support the future doesn't make sense to me.
 
BronxBomber

BronxBomber

Ready to race!
Location
Orlando,FL
Diggs24 said:
Seems a bit overkill on an IS38, no? I bought my hpfp internals for $270 on ebay, a $40 bearing puller and it was all done. $310 vs what is MPI costing nowadays? $800+ and is that easily done DIY? So add labor on top.

Can the lpfp support that much fueling? Wouldn't that also need an upgrade?
Click to expand...

Ditto. To max out an IS38 all you need need is a HPFP and LPFP to safely run straight E85. Of you want to go bigger, that’s still all you pretty much need didn’t Frank Mabo make 522whp on an R with just HPFP and LPFP? Albeit he was using a huge EFR snail, but point is all he had for fueling was both pumps. Stock injectors. I’m aware that the R injectors flow a little bit more than the GTi.
 
W

wy2sl0

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ontario
BronxBomber said:
Ditto. To max out an IS38 all you need need is a HPFP and LPFP to safely run straight E85. Of you want to go bigger, that’s still all you pretty much need didn’t Frank Mabo make 522whp on an R with just HPFP and LPFP? Albeit he was using a huge EFR snail, but point is all he had for fueling was both pumps. Stock injectors. I’m aware that the R injectors flow a little bit more than the GTi.
Click to expand...

Guy has full MPI, it was previously an APR Stage 3+ setup. It ALSO has HPFP.

I've done tons of cars on blends and the HPFP is a band aid when you want to start making real power. It is good for E50 up to like 420whp, max, and E85 to like 360-380.
That's not an IS38 maxed. You will still get injector misfires despite rail pressure being high due to pulse widths too long.

If you want to do it properly, MPI or bust. Even the small injector kit will support E85 up to almost 500whp with a LPFP.
 
Z

Zx2man

Ready to race!
Location
Vancouver, Wa
I agree if you are at tge point where your crossing over to big turbo, might as well upgrade whatever fuel components yoi need to make power. Room to grow so to speak.
For me on my daily driven fwd gti, is38 pump gas is probably the limit. 355-360 whp 92 oct moose tune be plenty ;)
 
P

People909

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
Last edited:
nkresho

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
Good first attempt. Timing looks decent. That's the big one you want to look for. "Ignition timing cylinder 1".

Here's a few tips:

watch this video first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIHF5LcBD-s&list=PLDod-asFVra184ApXBz43oBUgTrwm5YEm

Log all values available. The logger is fast enough to give decent resolution this way.

Not sure how comfortable you are with excel, but next to the column that has your "pressure upstream throttle", add a new column to the left of it. Title it "PSI" or something like that. Go to the first data cell of the new column (not the title cell) and make a formula. Type it out so that it does the following: (0.0145038)*(charge pressure actual-ambient pressure). 0.0145038 multiplied by millibar gives you psi, but you have to subtract ambient because the MAP sensor reads absolute pressure (atmospheric pressure plus the boost you're making). Drag the lower right part of that cell (when it makes a little + sign) to the bottom of the sheet to autofill the value to the other cells. Or double click it once it makes the + sign.

Here's an example of the formula from my spreadsheet =(0.0145038)*(G2-J2) To find the PSI of a specific pressure upstream throttle value, just subtract ambient pressure and multiply by 0.0145038.

Also, log third gear pulls, try to start at as low an RPM as you can (1000-2000). Then run it up to about 6500RPM before you let off the gas. Make sure you're pressing down hard enough to get a click at the end of the pedal travel. That's the kickdown switch.

Then, when you go to your log file, cut off the columns before you went WOT and the ones after the RPMs start to fall (when you let off the gas). I like to keep one column before WOT and one after to show when I went WOT.

We need to know what gear you're in too. Makes a difference. Third is best, but fourth can work too.

The torque logged is not completely accurate. Close maybe, but just disregard it.

Here's one of my logs, with PSI, for reference: https://datazap.me/u/nkresho/log-1528592882?log=0&data=1-4
 
P

People909

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
nkresho said:
Good first attempt. Timing looks decent. That's the big one you want to look for. "Ignition timing cylinder 1".

Here's a few tips:

watch this video first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIHF5LcBD-s&list=PLDod-asFVra184ApXBz43oBUgTrwm5YEm

Log all values available. The logger is fast enough to give decent resolution this way.

Not sure how comfortable you are with excel, but next to the column that has your "pressure upstream throttle", add a new column to the left of it. Title it "PSI" or something like that. Go to the first data cell of the new column (not the title cell) and make a formula. Type it out so that it does the following: (0.0145038)*(charge pressure actual-ambient pressure). 0.0145038 multiplied by millibar gives you psi, but you have to subtract ambient because the MAP sensor reads absolute pressure (atmospheric pressure plus the boost you're making). Drag the lower right part of that cell (when it makes a little + sign) to the bottom of the sheet to autofill the value to the other cells. Or double click it once it makes the + sign.

Here's an example of the formula from my spreadsheet =(0.0145038)*(G2-J2) To find the PSI of a specific pressure upstream throttle value, just subtract ambient pressure and multiply by 0.0145038.

Also, log third gear pulls, try to start at as low an RPM as you can (1000-2000). Then run it up to about 6500RPM before you let off the gas. Make sure you're pressing down hard enough to get a click at the end of the pedal travel. That's the kickdown switch.

Then, when you go to your log file, cut off the columns before you went WOT and the ones after the RPMs start to fall (when you let off the gas). I like to keep one column before WOT and one after to show when I went WOT.

We need to know what gear you're in too. Makes a difference. Third is best, but fourth can work too.

The torque logged is not completely accurate. Close maybe, but just disregard it.

Here's one of my logs, with PSI, for reference: https://datazap.me/u/nkresho/log-1528592882?log=0&data=1-4
Click to expand...

Nice, I will have to look into this once I get done working. And this was in 3rd gear.
 
P

People909

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
nkresho said:
Good first attempt. Timing looks decent. That's the big one you want to look for. "Ignition timing cylinder 1".

Here's a few tips:

watch this video first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIHF5LcBD-s&list=PLDod-asFVra184ApXBz43oBUgTrwm5YEm

Log all values available. The logger is fast enough to give decent resolution this way.

Not sure how comfortable you are with excel, but next to the column that has your "pressure upstream throttle", add a new column to the left of it. Title it "PSI" or something like that. Go to the first data cell of the new column (not the title cell) and make a formula. Type it out so that it does the following: (0.0145038)*(charge pressure actual-ambient pressure). 0.0145038 multiplied by millibar gives you psi, but you have to subtract ambient because the MAP sensor reads absolute pressure (atmospheric pressure plus the boost you're making). Drag the lower right part of that cell (when it makes a little + sign) to the bottom of the sheet to autofill the value to the other cells. Or double click it once it makes the + sign.

Here's an example of the formula from my spreadsheet =(0.0145038)*(G2-J2) To find the PSI of a specific pressure upstream throttle value, just subtract ambient pressure and multiply by 0.0145038.

Also, log third gear pulls, try to start at as low an RPM as you can (1000-2000). Then run it up to about 6500RPM before you let off the gas. Make sure you're pressing down hard enough to get a click at the end of the pedal travel. That's the kickdown switch.

Then, when you go to your log file, cut off the columns before you went WOT and the ones after the RPMs start to fall (when you let off the gas). I like to keep one column before WOT and one after to show when I went WOT.

We need to know what gear you're in too. Makes a difference. Third is best, but fourth can work too.

The torque logged is not completely accurate. Close maybe, but just disregard it.

Here's one of my logs, with PSI, for reference: https://datazap.me/u/nkresho/log-1528592882?log=0&data=1-4
Click to expand...

What am i looking for in Ignition timing cylinder number 1? Maybe the video explained it, but I couldn't watch it yet until this evening. The log that I did was in 3rd gear and was steady at 3k then hit it, so this evening I'll flash back to 1.5 93 and get a log from 1 or 2k. I've just been reading a lot trying to figure out how to read these logs. Thanks for help!
 
P

People909

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
When I was stock this mustang, don't know whether it was gt or what, but came up on me and passed me, so, how will my 1.5 93oct non HT file hold against the mustang, or would I need the HT file?
 
D

dlau9

Go Kart Champion
Location
Canada
People909 said:
When I was stock this mustang, don't know whether it was gt or what, but came up on me and passed me, so, how will my 1.5 93oct non HT file hold against the mustang, or would I need the HT file?
Click to expand...

Well given there are over 50 years of Mustangs, and TONS of different versions and editions, maybe you should clarify your question....
 
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